2000 115 power pack

Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
20
Re: 2000 115 power pack

Negative, about ready to sell the damn thing its just been a headache sunce I got it. Let me give you little bit more background of when the issues started. I bought the boat in August at a dealership put tge boat in a tank ran fine everything checked out. Took it out for a lake test a few days later started right up running fine for about 20 minutes decided to go WOT and see what she had, was running wot around 5000-5500 rpm boat jerked rpms dropped the revved back up keep doing this. Decided thst was enough went to start heading to ramp could not get the motor to run, it would start then as soon as I gave it throttle it would die trolled back to the ramp.Got home put the motor on muffs started right up idled fine.Took cover off just to look around pulled the fuel filter it was nasty with black stuff cut it open it was chucks of rubber hose, pulled fuel line and cut it it was clogged with rubber idk even know how fuel got through, Replaced the filter and line inside the motor, also replaced the line from tank to motor new bulb and everything. Figured that fixed the problem took it to the lake ran fine for about 20 minutes until I hit around 5000 rpm same issue of jerking and rom drop/rev. Trolled back went home, tried hooking up to muffs next day it would not idle longer then about 1 minute, tried external tank etc if you keep pumping the bulb it would keep running. Took to boat shop the said the carbs were dirty didn't have them clean them as they wanted 675 dollars. So since then I noticed the right side had no spark changed the plugs and power pack fixed the fire issue. Installss the used vro no change in how motor ran. Friend came out with external tank again tried again no choice. Hes saying it the stator and rectifier. The right side of the block was hotter to the touch then the left, he pulled rectifier it was really hot, it supposed to be water cool, the inside of the block was steaming. Were do I go fron here?
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Re: 2000 115 power pack

It all goes back to how hot is hot. You need a temp gun to check it which I think Harbor Freight has for cheap. Everybody has a different feel for heat.
 

jrs151

Seaman
Joined
Apr 12, 2007
Messages
52
Re: 2000 115 power pack

Initially, it seems you incurred a fuel delivery issue. Hopefully that is sorted out, but I’d still break apart the VRO pump, fuel separation chamber (check the float), and all four carbs just to be sure the fuel system is clean and functional.

If I were you, I’d focus on the water circulation issues first! It’s either the thermostat or the water pump. So pull both stats and run without to test. Also, bypass the water pump by reverse flushing via the tell tail fitting – connect a water supply directly.

That said, it is possible that the regulator/rectifier (RR) is at the top of the crankcase has cooked itself. Also, one of the temp probes might be sending the motor into cripple mode. The RR feeds the tach signal (explains the erratic tach readings). However, the RR does NOT supply the Power Pack, coils, ignition with electrical power while running. Neither does the battery. Instead, the stator directly provides AC power to the Power Pack from separate inductor coils, aka the Power Pack powers directly off the stator. In other words, you could totally remove the RR and that engine will still start (w/ battery) and stay running! It’s a self-contained system. So while you may indeed have RR electrical issues and/or and over-heating RR, it’s not going to cause that motor to run like crap. But things like a bad stator, power pack, coils, timing linkage, and air/fuel will.
 
Last edited:

pn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
374
Re: 2000 115 power pack

have you cleaned the carbs?
 
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
20
Re: 2000 115 power pack

Update replaced rectifier and stator per friend cause he had same issue on his 92 johnson motor now idles/run fine.
 
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