2.5HP Mercury/Tohatsu/Nissan Outboard No Longer Starting

dibiased

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2024
Messages
9
Motor info:
2003 Mercury 2.5hp Model #1002201AK
(I believe these motors are built by Tohatsu for both Mercury and Nissan)

Problem:
Outboard will no longer start, occasionally backfires

History of Problem:
I purchased this motor along with a 15ft RIB in 2019. The 2.5HP serves as an emergency 'kicker' in case my 40.0HP Yamaha has problems when out on the water as I'm in a remote location in the Pacific.

I generally store the boat out of the water on a trailer; after each weekend I usually run both my main outboard and this 2.5HP outboard in fresh water for a few minutes to get rid of salt deposits, etc. I've never needed the 2.5HP for an emergency and generally don't use it, so running it every weekend keeps it running well and will alert me if it's not working. I mention this for 2 reasons: first, this 2.5HP motor has barely been used so it is in almost new condition for internal parts; second, this motor always started without any issues until the following.

Although the motor always started and ran well, very soon after my purchase I noticed that water was neither coming out with the exhaust nor flowing out of the indicator hose/hole. Although this wasn't an immediate issue since I always only ran the motor for a few minutes, I knew it would be a problem if I actually needed the motor in an emergency. Eventually I got around to tackling it, and after replacing the pump impeller without any change or improvement, I discovered the cooling lines were completely clogged with sediment/corrosion/gunk.

I spent a week or two slowly working the cooling system clean using vinegar to dissolve the deposits in the cooling passageways. The vinegar worked well at clearing out the lines and eventually water flowed freely through the cooling system when I rinsed water through it. However, when I built it back up, the engine would not start.

It was soon clear that I hadn't been careful enough with the vinegar and had corroded the wires going to the ignition coil (not the spark plug wire, but the wire from the CD unit and the ground wire). Replacing the ignition coil seemed like a simple fix but didn't solve the problem. I next replaced the CD unit, the spark plug, and finally the exciter coil inside the flywheel (these being the complete electrical system for this motor). The engine still wouldn't start. Occasionally it would behave like it wanted to start (would turn over more than usual with one pull) and once in a while it would backfire.

I verified my spark by taking the spark plug out and grounding it to the motor housing while turning the engine over. The spark looks good (bluish) to my untrained eye. So I figured maybe the problem was with the carburetor. Even though inspection showed it looking clean, I replaced it with a new carburetor since it didn't cost much. With the new carb, the engine still won't start.

Conclusion:
I'm now at a loss of how to proceed. Someone suggested checking the compression. With my thumb on the spark plug hole, it feels like it's getting compression, but I'm not sure what to compare it to. I'm now waiting on a compression gauge from someone I know. The way it backfires also suggests to me that it is a timing issue. However, there is no way to change the timing on these motors (that I see). They are very simple. I even checked to see if I put the flywheel back on incorrectly, but there's only one way for it to go on the shaft (no possibility of installing it 180deg out) and the key is in good shape (so the flywheel is not slipping on the shaft).

Anyone have any other ideas? This is starting to drive me nuts.
 

MattFL

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
845
Not knowing how much you took it apart, did you put the reeds back in properly?

While waiting for the compression gauge to arrive, treat it like it's flooded and see if that helps. Remove the spark plug, be sure the spark plug is grounded or the run switch is off (to keep the electronics safe) and with the throttle wide open pull the rope 10 or 20 times. Put it back together and see if it will start. If that fails, try a squirt of starting fluid in the open carburetor and try again. If that fails, wait and see what the compression gauge tells you.
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,349
Being a new xarb does not mean it is adjusted properly for your motor. Look in a factory service manual for carb setup and follow. Why not just rebuild your existing carb ?? Rebuild kits are not that expensive and then you would know the carb is properly setup.
 

dibiased

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2024
Messages
9
Not knowing how much you took it apart, did you put the reeds back in properly?

While waiting for the compression gauge to arrive, treat it like it's flooded and see if that helps. Remove the spark plug, be sure the spark plug is grounded or the run switch is off (to keep the electronics safe) and with the throttle wide open pull the rope 10 or 20 times. Put it back together and see if it will start. If that fails, try a squirt of starting fluid in the open carburetor and try again. If that fails, wait and see what the compression gauge tells you.
Thank you for your reply. I did not take apart or otherwise touch the reed valve. And I should have mentioned that I did try what you suggested re. flooded engine without luck.
 

dibiased

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2024
Messages
9
Being a new xarb does not mean it is adjusted properly for your motor. Look in a factory service manual for carb setup and follow. Why not just rebuild your existing carb ?? Rebuild kits are not that expensive and then you would know the carb is properly setup.
Thanks for your reply. The rebuild kit was the same price for a new carb, so that's why I went that route. Earlier in the process I had dissembled the existing one to inspect but couldn't see any corrosion or anything wrong. I was pretty doubtful that the issue had to do with the carb at all, but found one for $65 so bought it just in case. These carbs are pretty simple and have only one adjustment - idle speed.
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,349
Thanks for your reply. The rebuild kit was the same price for a new carb, so that's why I went that route. Earlier in the process I had dissembled the existing one to inspect but couldn't see any corrosion or anything wrong. I was pretty doubtful that the issue had to do with the carb at all, but found one for $65 so bought it just in case. These carbs are pretty simple and have only one adjustment - idle speed.
What about float height, plunger rod adjustment and air adjustment ??
 

dibiased

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2024
Messages
9
What about float height, plunger rod adjustment and air adjustment ??
Were you able to view the diagrams I sent links to? I'm pretty sure each of those is not 'adjustable' in the sense that there's no overt adjustments that can be made for them in this particular carburetor. I'm not saying there isn't a way that they could be adjusted if you know what you're doing, just that, for the average dummy like me, there's no obvious 'knobs' to adjust like there might be on other carbs. It is a very simple motor.
 

pvanv

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,509
There are 3 settings for the needle. Depends on where you install the clip. Also a screw to set idle.
 

dibiased

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2024
Messages
9
There are 3 settings for the needle. Depends on where you install the clip. Also a screw to set idle.
I have played around with the idle adjust screw without any change in the motor being able to start. I checked the needle and it's in the middle/normal position. Do you think the needle position would cause the motor not to start or more specifically make it backfire like described in the original post? I really suspected it was an electrical/spark issue anyway since that's where I found the corrosion after cleaning the cooling lines out. But I can try to change the needle clip position if you think that is a possible fix. Thanks
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,349
Needle position will have very little to do with starting...float setting could ...if float is off, flooding or lean could occur. Did you ever get a compression reading ? Low comp can cause hard starting. Did you ever get a spark gap gage ? Weak spark can cause hard starting. Now matter how new it might be, parts fail....
 

dibiased

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2024
Messages
9
Needle position will have very little to do with starting...float setting could ...if float is off, flooding or lean could occur. Did you ever get a compression reading ? Low comp can cause hard starting. Did you ever get a spark gap gage ? Weak spark can cause hard starting. Now matter how new it might be, parts fail....
Ok, roger - thanks, that's what I figured. Float seems to be working (fuel isn't continually overflowing and it is definitely getting fuel). I haven't been able to get a compression reading yet - still working on that. But yes, I've measured the spark gap (and replaced with a new spark plug) - the gap is per specifications in manual.
 

cyclops222

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
160
The Safety Switch that clips onto your belt is in the correct position ? will cause your problem.
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,349
Ok, roger - thanks, that's what I figured. Float seems to be working (fuel isn't continually overflowing and it is definitely getting fuel). I haven't been able to get a compression reading yet - still working on that. But yes, I've measured the spark gap (and replaced with a new spark plug) - the gap is per specifications in manual.
Not the gap on the plug....it is how far the spark will jump a gap. There is a cheap tool that you attach and adjust a gap distance to see if the spark will jump that gap. Weak spark equals shorter gap and hotter/ stronger spark will jump longer gap. You should be jumping around a 3/16 to 1/4 " gap or your spark is to weak.
 
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