#2 / #5 Cylinders Not Firing

[JCJII]

Hi all...
I have a 1997 Yamaha 200 SW series motor that dropped to a reduced rpm the other day while out running (no warning horn though). Fortunately, I was able to limp back to the dock, and once home, I found that both the #2 and #5 coils were not firing. I swapped coils and plugs around with ones that were working, but no change. At one point while I troubleshooting, I quickly saw an erratic, intermittent spark on #2 for a very short time, but then it quit again. I read where the crank position sensor detects these two cylinders, so was able to pick up a used one very cheap. However, after replacing it, that did not fix the problem either. Would anyone out there have any suggestions on where to look next? I thought I heard that the pulser coil has something to do with these two cylinders as well???

One additional thing that occurred when the rpm's dropped were that the red, yellow, and green alarm lights at the bottom of my digital tach began flashing. It's weird, because as soon as I turn the key to the start or run position, they continue flashing (whether the motor is running or not)??? I think I've done pretty good about ruling out anything with those systems though because the warning buzzer is not going off, and I've verified that it does work.

This motor has always run good, and been well taken care of, so no corrosion issues on wires, battery, etc... It'll still start right up, just no spark on #2 or #5???

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

 

[Faztbullet]

3 bars,lamps or arrows flashing means the remote tank(on engine) has sufficient oil but the engine oil tank is low. either a malfunction or needs filling. Motor goes into limp mode reducing RPM

 

[JCJII]

Yeah, that's initially what I was looking at, but was told if the warning buzzer is not sounding, that the engine is not in rpm reduction mode. I verified the buzzer is working, and the oil and temp systems checked out ok as far as I can tell. Also I didn't know if rpm reduction mode meant that #2 and #5 cylinders would shut down??? Is that what happens when an engine goes into rpm reduction mode?

From what I was reading, it seemed that when most folks encountered this problem with #2 and #5 cylinders, it was something with the CPS, CDI, or pulser coil that seemed to fix it???

To check the oil, I did drain the powerhead tank on the engine, and when the oil got low, the buzzer started sounding so it seemed like it knew when it was empty or full??? Something else I don't understand, is that no matter what sensors I unplug (oil level sensors, oil tank, temp sensors, etc...), those lights on my tach still stay flashing. It does not matter whether I have the engine running or not. As soon as I turn the key to where the tach gets power, they're flashing. It's like whatever has happened, it still thinks it's going on (immediately when the key is turned)??? I was thinking that if I could unplug something and make them go out, that would at least give me some inclination of what might be causing it???

 

[Faztbullet]

Check oil tank in boat not on engine..

 

[JCJII]

10-4. What I discovered, is that the remote oil tank is not pushing oil to my main tank on the engine. What I did was drain the oil down on the main tank to where the remote tank should start filling it, and then cranked the motor. The remote tank would not transfer any oil to the main tank. However, when I used the emergency oil switch, it began filling immediately so I know the motor on the remote tank is working. It's like it's not getting a signal to transfer the oil. Reading through some troubleshooting material, it's pointing me towards the CDI??? Thoughts?

 

[racerone]

What about the " oil level gauge " ( switch ) in the tank on the motor ?

 

[JCJII]

When I drained the oil down low on the engine oil tank, and was trying to get the remote tank to fill it, the buzzer started sounding, so the level sensor in the engine oil tank knew it was low. I'm assuming with it doing that, it's ok???

 

[99yam40]

the switch should turn on the oil pump and fill the tank before the level gets very low, then it sends another signal and sets the alarm.
You need to be testing to see if the switch, wiring, or maybe wiring is a problem

 

[JCJII]

What switch are you referring to that signals the remote oil pump to turn on? I drained the oil down just below the lower hash mark on the engine oil tank so that I knew it should be calling for oil, and because I had it that low, my warning buzzer started sounding once I turned the key on to crank the engine. After I realized the remote tank was not transferring oil, and filled it just above that lower mark with the emergency switch, buzzer stopped. I was thinking with it doing this, the level sensor in the engine tank is good??? Is that what your referring to about making the remote pump turn on? I've looked the wiring over pretty well, and haven't found any problems so far. Thanks for jumping in and offering up the advice - appreciate it!

 

[99yam40]

yes the oil level switch in the main tank has more than one set of contacts, that send signals to the oil control module.
looking at wiring does not mean it is good, need to be testing it

your service manual has a lot of information in it.
good to have if you are going to work on it yourself

 

[JCJII]

Got it figured out, and appreciate all the help. It was the CDI unit. After reading some more troubleshooting information in my service manual, apparently the oil control unit for transferring oil from the remote tank to the engine mounted tank is integrated inside the CDI. I found a troubleshooting flow chart that basically took me right to the CDI being the issue based on the symptoms of my problem(s). Appreciate all the help!