2.3l acts as if flywheel has missing teeth

[fritzL]

I have replaced the starter and the flywheel in my 1987 2.3l OMC with the Cobra outboard.
The original flywheel has a damaged section on the ring gear. First i replaced the starter with a new one as it was old and most likely was going... when that did not help i replaced the flywheel, also new.
Today when i went to start the engine, that famiar sound of not engaging and then after several times the starters teeth and flywheel engaged.

How is this possible? Both starter and flywheel are new.

Thank you for reading

 

[Scott Danforth]

Clean your battery cables. Bad connections are the number one reason for improperly actuating bendix

 

[kenny nunez]

Check the diameter of the starter centering hole, make sure the hole in the plate is not bent inward. The hole has to match the raised area that registers the starter. Ford marine and industrial sometimes have a smaller hole than the automotive engines. If an automotive starter is forced into the smaller centering hole then that is when flywheel problems begin.
Check the dimensions with a inside-outside caliper.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Is the ring gear in the same position? Some flywheels will accept ring gears on either side if the flywheel. Some flywheels will even fit reversed on the crankshaft too

 

[fritzL]

The ring gear is integral to the flywheel. Cannot move
The inner diameter of the starter motor mounting hole is a snug fit. Not stressed. Nor slooppy.
I purchased a marine rated starter. And the flywheels were laid back to back..and are the sam a

 

[fritzL]

Clean your battery cables. Bad connections are the number one reason for improperly actuating bendix

I have checked it and cleaned it with a wire brush. The bote has one ground cable, and one positive cable running to thw solenoid..
Should. There be more ground points?

 

[fritzL]

Should i perhaps ask about the wiring of a 1986 Bluefin sportsman 1900?
Should there be more than one ground point?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ground points are engine block, battery negative and ground buss at helm

 

[fritzL]

Ground points are engine block, battery negative and ground buss at helm

I have them....took scotch brite pad to the gounding point on block...wven using star washers at this location.
I have +12 and GND buses installed at helm and near aft battery (for bilge and blower)

 

[Renken2000Classic]

I have replaced the starter and the flywheel in my 1987 2.3l OMC with the Cobra outboard.
The original flywheel has a damaged section on the ring gear. First i replaced the starter with a new one as it was old and most likely was going... when that did not help i replaced the flywheel, also new.
Today when i went to start the engine, that famiar sound of not engaging and then after several times the starters teeth and flywheel engaged.

How is this possible? Both starter and flywheel are new.

Thank you for reading

One car we had when I was way younger had a spot or spots like that. I remember having to grab the fan belts and turn the engine a little to get past it. Try that, Lol. I'm kidding.

I think that was a '73 Buick wagon with a 455 (that had surprisingly little power btw)

 

[fritzL]

One car we had when I was way younger had a spot or spots like that. I remember having to grab the fan belts and turn the engine a little to get past it. Try that, Lol. I'm kidding.

I think that was a '73 Buick wagon with a 455 (that had surprisingly little power btw)

I was hoping that replacing the flywhwel would solve this...the old one had flat spots..
I am baffled

 

[Renken2000Classic]

Did you check the positive cable connection at the starter? I know you've had it off recently, but maybe forgot to clean that one? It got me once...

 

[fritzL]

Checked the connection at the starter... wire wheeled it for good measure...same thing.
I have not replaced the starter solenoid...
Not sure if i need to as when i jump the terminal on thensolenoid, i get the same intermittent results....

 

[kenny nunez]

Just a question, have you had the battery load tested?

 

[fritzL]

Just a question, have you had the battery load tested?

Aye aye 2 bags full. I have a Schumacher load tester...
On Thw other hand...
I believe i have cured the lack of constant starter motor engagement issue. Beneath the cover I am pointing to is a lever which moves the bendix forward. This lever is activated by an electromagnet and its forward movement is then limited by a switch. This switch was being deactivated too soon. Solution was to bend this switch so that it deactivates later, and thusly the bendix has extended more forward, that is to say closer to the flywheel.

Spoke and typed too soon...
After approximately 20 successful switch engagements, the switch bent again.. i will try epoxy, hoping that encased part will not bend.

1st picture cover
2nd picture switch
3rd picture epoxy encasement

 

[fritzL]

As a side note, this is the second starter motor I have put in. Both worked initially then same failure mode. I returned the first one for this.
Purchased from DB Electrical. Model 410-145079
They offer another variant which has the solenoid mounted to the top of the starter motor. This would require that I eliminate the stock solenoid and relocate the associated wiring. I dont think that is an optimal plan.
Comments and suggestions please

 

[kenny nunez]

Just use the original solenoid to trigger the solenoid on the new starter with a #10 wire and using a switch to switch heavy cable mounted to the battery side of the original solenoid to the starter main post. That is how I set up the rear entry PMGR starter on my jet boat.
Another way is to connect the new starter solenoid‘s main post with the same switch to switch cable to it‘s triggering post with a small made up #10 wire. Sometimes rebuilt Delco starters come with a small metal jumper for that purpose if a boost solenoid is being used.

 

[fritzL]

Thank you for the reply and advice.
So that I understand, here is a rough sketch

 

[kenny nunez]

That will make it happen.