1999 Volvo Penta 5.0 GL freeze plug kits

Garutlan

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Anyone know a part number for a freeze plug kit for the engine in the thread title. Was not sure if a GM cross reference would work. Thanks in advance- Geoff
 

alldodge

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Go to any auto parts store and give them the year and GM 5.0 and they should be able to find Brass or Stainless Steal plugs

Should also be able to find them on line at a place like Summitt Racing or Rockauto
 

Scott Danforth

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Napa keeps core plug kits in stock. marine use brass or stainless. cars and trucks use coated tin

Melling MPE-100BR is for small block chevies from 1957-2014

however if they were pushed out by not winterizing, the block cracked
 
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racerone

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Agree with post #4.----If pushed out by cold weather then inspection is required.-----They are " core plugs "----And somehow they began to be called freeze plugs.
 

Scott Danforth

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Remember, the block water jacket should hold 15psi.

the points of failure if it froze will be both exhaust manifolds will have a crack on either the outboard or inboard side, just above teh centerline of the exhaust ports, and both waterjackets will have cracked on the inside of the cam valley, and the heads will crack around the exhaust valve bowls
 

Garutlan

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Ok. I finally got back to cranking the boat and unfortunately discovered that water was leaking along a crack along the block on both port and starboard. Pictures attached.
I think my options are 1 to replace the engine block, 2 get a complete drop-in replacement or 3 see if I can sell it for anything along with the trailer. I am guessing from the length of the separation on the photos- 5-6 inches that a modified repair is probably not an option.

Anyhow just curious to hear from those who have undergone an engine replacement. I am mechanically minded and capable, but would need some direction if I were to replace the engine block. Where to start with engine search would be appreciated as well. Thanks in advance- Geoff
 

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alldodge

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It goes any one of directions you mentioned, all comes down to what you think the boat is worth to you, and how much time and money your willing to put in
 

Lou C

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Probably add to that, the power steering cooler that is mounted on the rear of the engine like OMCs had it.
This is one of the main reasons people are going to outboards, no one wants to deal with the hassles of draining these things every time the temp drops, and the boat companies make it worse with idiotic designs with no access to anything but the dipstick.
In fact, I am thinking of getting rid of the big back seats on my boat since they are rarely used, and replacing them with lightweight jump seats to make that ordeal easier.
Michigan Motorz sells long block packages ready to drop in but they are expensive, like $9000, including carb, ignition and exhaust but keep in mind your original engine is a 1999, that's 27 years old, so changing everything while expensive, might give you a better outcome because the parts you need to be reliable will be new.
Or, you can get a reman from a local machine shop and add the extras (intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, etc) yourself. You can still get new long blocks from Michigan Motorz and others, but the price has gone way up from what it was like 5 years ago. It depends on what you think the boat is worth and how long you'd keep and use it.
 

Garutlan

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Thanks for the input and replies. Good to know there are options and that a nee engine would seem plausible - if I went that route I would keep the boat for the long haul. The boat is a 1999 Chapparal 232 Sunesta. My next decision raises the question if there is wood in the stringer system….. don’t want to put a new engine in on top of rotten wood. I was thinking by ‘99 most manufacturers had moved away from wood, but google searches seem to indicate that Sunesta’s still had encapsulated wood systems. So that factors in as well. Everything feels strong no soft spots of which I can tell and motor mount supports don’t sound hollow. Thanks again for the information. I will continue my research and quite possibly be back on here again with further questions.
If I went the Michigan Motors route have folks on here had good success with thise engines? Thanks- Geoff
 

Scott Danforth

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to hear hollow sounds, the wood must first be wet, then rot, then get eaten by insects and dry out. wood will be wet and rotten for about 20 years before the insects get to it. only way to know is to make some test drills and look at the shavings. chuck up a 5/16" drill. tape off all but 3/4" of the end. then make some test drills into the transom and stringers inside the bilge about 2" from the bottom of the hull. if the shavings are light colored and smell of fresh cut wood, just fill the holes with marine tex and move on. if the shavings are dark and wet and smell of mulch. fire up the saws.

regarding motors, yes, many have had great luck with Michigan Motorz

I personally like to build my own motors, so I do not have personal experience.
 
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