1999 Volvo penta 4.3 gl starter issue

[fredcombs]

Hello all. Well I have ran into something that has me stumped. Last weekend went to crank the engine and could just hear the starter spinning and not engaging the flywheel. I had recently purchased a new starter so new one out of the box, put it in and still having the same issue. The starter motor is just spinning. I had some lag in the starter a few weeks ago but switching to a nee battery fixed that issue and I have not had any trouble until Saturday. Here is what I have done this far. BOTH starters have tested good. Cleaned all connections at the battery and on the starter. (except for the negative battery cable that is grounded in the back of the engine. It is a real pain to get to but am going to tackle that tomorrow. I inspected the ring gear while the starter was off and all of the teeth look fine to me. Again I have had no other starting issues expect for this one. I did get it to crank a few times but then it went right back to spinning. Obviously I need to clean the negative ground post on the back of the engine but what else is there for me to try? This is screaming bad connection to me but looking for any other troubleshooting things to try. Thanks in advance for any and all help

 

[alldodge]

In order for the starter to spin the solenoid has to be pulled in. When the solenoid the starter gear pushes into the flywheel and then power is applied to the starter windings. Either the actuating arm is disconnected or damaged.

https://www.howacarworks.com/illustrations/pre-engaged-starter

 

[Lou C]

You might also want to check for the voltage at the big red cable terminal on the starter and also at the yellow/red (start) wire. If your battery cables are orginal they are likely all corroded inside, get a new set made up with marine wire and do not use wingnuts on the battery terminals! They get loose and cause exactly that problem. I bolt on marine battery clamps to the cable terminals. That and new cables eliminated all my starting problems some years ago. Your problem could be just that the negative cable connection on the bell housing (behind the starboard side exhaust elbow/hoses) is corroded. Remember electricity has to travel in a circle....+---->- or nothing works!

 

[fredcombs]

You might also want to check for the voltage at the big red cable terminal on the starter and also at the yellow/red (start) wire. If your battery cables are orginal they are likely all corroded inside, get a new set made up with marine wire and do not use wingnuts on the battery terminals! They get loose and cause exactly that problem. I bolt on marine battery clamps to the cable terminals. That and new cables eliminated all my starting problems some years ago. Your problem could be just that the negative cable connection on the bell housing (behind the starboard side exhaust elbow/hoses) is corroded. Remember electricity has to travel in a circle....+---->- or nothing works!

That is what I am going to tackle this afternoon. The access is tight back there for sure. I am replacing the cables anyway, could I just mount the negative battery cable to a bolt on the engine?

 

[Lou C]

That is what I am going to tackle this afternoon. The access is tight back there for sure. I am replacing the cables anyway, could I just mount the negative battery cable to a bolt on the engine?

You can, there is no reason why it has to be on the bell housing, just make sure that it is a clean secure mount, and that the neg cable can't ground out on the positive terminal of the starter. As much as that spot is a pain to get at, when I installed my dual battery system about 15 years ago, I ran both battery negatives back to the bell housing. But then I had the orginal OMC Cobra one piece exhaust system which is a little more compact than the later OMC/Volvo 2 piece system which is what you have (and I changed mine over to about 4 years ago).

 

[fredcombs]

You can, there is no reason why it has to be on the bell housing, just make sure that it is a clean secure mount, and that the neg cable can't ground out on the positive terminal of the starter. As much as that spot is a pain to get at, when I installed my dual battery system about 15 years ago, I ran both battery negatives back to the bell housing. But then I had the orginal OMC Cobra one piece exhaust system which is a little more compact than the later OMC/Volvo 2 piece system which is what you have (and I changed mine over to about 4 years ago).

New cables are coming tomorrow. This is about to drive me insane lol. Additionally when I crank the engine, my stereo lights dim and flash a bit while cranking. Not really sure if that has anything to do with it but thought I would add it in. I have my fingers crossed that the new cables and clean shiny connections will solve this electrical gremlin. Honestly if it doesn’t I cannot think of anything else to check

 

[Lou C]

That’s a sign of low voltage and rusty electrical connections.

 

[Grub54891]

With a new battery, it worked? After a few starts it didn't? I'd make sure the charging system is working.

 

[Lou C]

True your charging voltage should be approx 14.2V with the engine running

 

[fredcombs]

Thanks everyone for the help thus far. Still waiting on my battery cables but was able to get a break in the rain today and do some voltage drop tests. Here are my multimeter readings and hoping someone smarter than me can tell me what they mean

red to red battery post
Black to red terminal on starter
Cranked engine and showed 2.3 milivolts

red on starter case
Black on black battery terminal
Cranked engine and had 5.3 millivolts

black on s terminal of starter
Red to positive battery terminal
Read 12.71volts (not cranking)
Cranked engine and read 12.67 volts

from everything I have read the first 2 should have shown a zero drop or very minimal. I did clean connection today. Cleaned the ground where the starter relay is and I’ll be darned the thing fired right up. Was able to crank it 2 more times and then back to the spinning starter issue.

 

[Bt Doctur]

only other reason is a blown bendix drive is from water in a cylinder

 

[alldodge]

I see no issues with your readings. Its not the cables

Pic of your starter please?

 

[fredcombs]

I see no issues with your readings. Its not the cables

Pic of your starter please?

I can get a picture when I get home this afternoon. It is a new ARCO 30470. I have both red wires on the main stud. Yellow and red on the small stud closest to the block and purple on the small stud away from the block. This one really has me scratching my head. Could it perhaps be a bad starter relay or something in the ignition switch? I’m going to clean everything again this afternoon and make sure all connections are shiny and tight.

 

[alldodge]

Being a ARCO 30470 then I don't need a pic. Was wondering if you had a starter with a bendix, as in direct drive, you don't

The yellow/red wire supplies power to the solenoid on top the starter. When the solenoid is pulled in the starter gear moves out and engages the flywheel. The starter windings are not energized until the solenoid contact plate connects the 2 together. Then the starter starts to turn and rotate the flywheel.

Your relay has no issues because the starter solenoid is energized. What isn't happening is the engagement to the flywheel. So the actuator arm is not connected to the solenoid or starter gear

 

[fredcombs]

Being a ARCO 30470 then I don't need a pic. Was wondering if you had a starter with a bendix, as in direct drive, you don't

The yellow/red wire supplies power to the solenoid on top the starter. When the solenoid is pulled in the starter gear moves out and engages the flywheel. The starter windings are not energized until the solenoid contact plate connects the 2 together. Then the starter starts to turn and rotate the flywheel.

Your relay has no issues because the starter solenoid is energized. What isn't happening is the engagement to the flywheel. So the actuator arm is not connected to the solenoid or starter gear

View attachment 339490

Thank you. That is a great explanation. What would cause the actuator arm to not be connected? I have cycled through 3 starters that have all tested good and 2 are brand new and I am getting the same intermittent issue .

 

[alldodge]

flywheel might be loose

 

[fredcombs]

flywheel might be loose

I misspoke on my readings. It was not in millivolts those should be in volts not millivolts.

 

[alldodge]

I misspoke on my readings. It was not in millivolts those should be in volts not millivolts.

Some real bad cables

 

[Lou C]

Get some Ancor Marine cables, they will last the life of the boat. The ones I put in 15 years ago are still good. The ones the boat came with were crap automotive quality cables. And just say not to wing nuts on battery terminals!

 

[Lou C]

I had marine terminals crimped onto the cables, and then bolted on marine quality battery clamps. These have a large contact area and can be replaced easily when they start to get corroded. I use locking nuts instead of the wing nuts shown in the pic. Or you can use a locking nut to attach the terminals to the studs on the battery, either way will work.