1999 Mercury XR 6 Outboard

[Dukedog]

don't think merc ever fused those that I know of???

 

[sam am I]

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mercu.../dp/B0039063RM

https://www.********************/merc...or-by-cdi.html where ************ = w*h*o*l*e*s*a*l*e*m*a*r*i*n*e

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mercu...16384622&psc=1

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...fier-regulator See #11




One more time, loose the bullet connectors (if present, in and out), add inline fuses (if not present, out), solder/heat shrink (all) connections.............Remember, Google can be your best friend!!

 

[Dukedog]

that's a cdm motor.. all red are fused.. not tha same as switch box motor..

 

[sam am I]

cdm motor, switch box motor, all red fused.....???

Duke,

Merc over time started fusing their regs and re-connnecterizing on the SAME stator driven regs, bullets were replaced with more robust connectors and fuses were added, it's very evident.

 

[Dukedog]

only 2/3 years of that type.. had automotive type connectors on power wires.. then tha alternator showed up so all went away.. they never fused tha regs on tha :switch box type motors like his.....

 

[sam am I]

Nor mine but, the point/directive here is, we're adding/replacing/modifying (and buying safer revisions) our old motors (OP is) trying to be safer and protect our butts from catching fire, which is with no doubt were Merc has went (see above evidence) and what they've done to their more current stuff. The time line of changes reflects the old problem/s right?

My above assertion of "Merc went to fuses and no bullets", is in general current terms of what they went to, I know his[mine] motor back in the day never went to fuses, etc, we can still buy the old stuff w/o fuses even.

I'm just stating the "newer" stuff (and even new revisions for old motors, see above replacement parts) on the same old technology did change, which obviously can reflect where some problems were and what we can do to fix them.

 

[Dukedog]

all true.. timeline??? you would think if it was a big problem it would not have taken merc 11 years ta make tha modification.. but have never heard or seen of anymore problems with jus tha soldered joint.. jmo.

 

[sam am I]

:noidea:

https://www.google.com/search?q=merc...h=976&biw=1531


I think it was a "bearable" problem that definitely grew worse in time, it had to be changed!! The bullet connectors were under rated as far as i can tell and over time cooked. Not fusing a wire leading from a battery connection became a even BIGGER no no with stricter reg's/guildlines due to more fires that pointed at the regulators and/or hook up wires. China jumped in with cheap after market regs which failed more often resulting in more fires......bah bah bah.

Fuses were added (esp direct to batter connection[solenoid post]), connectors became more robust(yellow and red bulleted wires), the rest is history.

 

[mgoff]

WOW, thanks for all the awesome info Dukedog and sam am I, a lot to digest in deciding whether or not to fuse the red feed wires. I see that marine engines.com sells a fused Mercury Quicksilver Voltage Regulator 8m0084173 that is equivalent to

194-5279 CDI Electronics which are the ones for my 99 150 XR 6 so I think they will work with my switch boxes. I'll call tomorrow to confirm that. I'll let you know what they say.​

 

[Dukedog]

if you go with a fuse justa simple "in-line" will work soldered... JT&T (2470H)-ATC/ATO FUSE HOLDER, 30AMP,
12 GAUGE.. think its water proof also.

sam, I've heard of all these "fires" with tha 20 and early 16 amp regs but I know absolutely no one that's ever had an actual fire.. know of lots with burnt bullet connectors but no "fires"...……. and I know lotsa folks over lotsa years...but hey, its on tha internet so its gotta be ture huh....

 

[sam am I]

Well probably not so much focused on just the fires per-se as much as reliability and overall safely of "what if" I think is more the driving forces (for Merc and us here today ) here. I think we're all on the same page here on this, we're just saying it differently Duke.

We agree the bullet connectors are crap?

We agree fuses are good idea's?

We agree if we don't fuses wires that, if connected especially to a battery post or the like, that if it shorts to ground somehow, they can fry/smoke/melt/hiss/smell/killl and perhaps catch fire?

If we can agree to the above, then I think we are on the same page and adding fuses and better connections as proposed (and as being newly manufactured even for older motors) is perhaps a good idea?

Even if you didn't catch on fire and know lots that didn't ..........I sure as hell had the the living daylights scared out of me back some years ago, in the middle of the huge lake when my (the) sense wire that connects to the battery cable post at the(our) starter solenoid on this very same rec/reg shorted internally to ground!!

That wire lit up glowing red hot, melted all the wires it ran with and smoke was bellowing out of my cowling, I had no place to go but, in the lake at 38 degrees F and it scared the living **** out of me.......true story sir!!. And you just read it on the internet!

A 1 amp fuse inline would have prevented this.

 

[Dukedog]

sorry for your experience.. I know it can and on occasion does.. but ta say its a "common thing", like some on tha net say, is jus not justified to me.. tha one thing I usually recommended and usually had on my stuff was a batt. disconnect of some sort for any of those type problems....

 

[GA_Boater]

Guys - The OP said he was fusing his wires, so why all the extraneous discussion? If you want to continue this, start a thread about preventing fires where you can offer opinions.

 

[mgoff]

I confirmed that the 30 amp fused Mercury regulator 8M0084173 is compatible with Mercury 150 XR 6 SN: OG884890 and that it will work with ignition switch boxes. I have 2 Sierra regulators coming in today so I'm going to fuse the red wires with in-line waterproof atc fuse holders and solder and heat shrink all the wiring connections. I'll post pics when done ,might help others dealing with this issue. Thanks to all who contributed advice, wiring diagrams, and pics. I greatly appreciate your valuable help and advice.

 

[mgoff]

Anyone know which red wire on a sierra 18-5743 voltage regulator is the sensing wire and which one is the feed wire?

 

[mgoff]

I'm guessing I can tell which red wires are feed/sensing by matching up the bullet connectors with the connectors from the wire harness that goes to the solenoid before I cut out the bullet connectors off and solder them together with in-line fuses?

 

[sam am I]

FWIW and beyond the reg's sense lines being identified by the above application...........


Above shows app where the reg's sense lines are used in a "remote sense" (oppose to local) configuration to increase the reg's nominal (14.3V) output voltage up in magnitude to a new compensated value (Viso) where the forward diode junction = 0.5V. (Vf = 0.5V

(Vnom + Vf = 14.3 + 0.5 = Viso = 14.8V)

This new output (compensated output) then of course makes up for the voltage drop the diode in the isolator creates, the battery then still sees Vnom after the drop where Vnom = Viso - Vf = 14.8 - 0.5V = 14.3V

Above values are given as examples and are approximations of actual working values.........

I'm off to fight fires now..........

 

[mgoff]

Wow! Thanks Sam, awesome information! Be careful fighting those fires!

 

[mgoff]

Sam, is it necessary to also cut off the bullet connectors on the yellow wires from the stator to the regulators and solder/ heat shrink them? the yellow wires from the stator look to be #10 guage and the yellow wires from the regulators are # 16 guage which could be difficult to get good solder joints. If so would a western union splice be better or should I untwist the wire strands, weave and twist them and solder/heat shrink them? I'll probably cut the # 10 wires from the stator back some to stagger the finished heat shrink joints.

 

[GA_Boater]

A Western Union splice is for stressed solid wire, you have unstressed stranded wire.

You are making soldering two wires together difficult.

• Cut the bullet ends off and strip the wires
• Twist the wires separately and tin both.
• Then fold each wire back on itself for a hook and hook the wires together.
• Squeeze the hooks for a tight connection and solder.
• Slide the shrink tubing over the joint and shrink it.
• Alternative method is to twist un-tinned smaller gauge wire around tinned larger gauge wire and solder. I prefer the hook method to make a good tight connection before soldering.