1999 Johnson 2 Stroke Outboard Starting Issue

[derek7467]

Model is a Johnson 35hp 2 stroke J35PL3EEM.

I recently troubleshot through an issue with my engine starting, it would crank but would never fire/turn over.

I tried the below steps:
1. Replace fuel line from tank to engine since it had air coming thru it.
2. Tested for water in fuel which was negative.
3. Made sure when im attempting to start, I heard the solenoid click, which I did.
4. Added fuel directly to carb throat, still nothing.
5. Checked battery with voltimeter and both (have 2 batteries installed inline connected to a battery switch) were measuring around 12.5.

Then, I had an epithany, replace and check the plugs, since I need, air, spark, and fuel. I checked the plugs and they were black and oily/sludged so I replaced them. Now here is the tricky part, once replaced, the engine behaved the same way. I waited a few minutes, then started reseating all electrical connections I could find on the engine, once I did that, the starting sounded different, so I tried a few more times, both priming and non-priming attempts and it finally fired up! I then stopped it and started it warm a few times and it was run. It did idle a little rough, which it would sputter and cough, but never stalled. The fuel line does get kind of soft, but im attributing that to the fuel line being way too long and will cut it and make it shorter this weekend, but now its like a snake at the stern end of my boat, I prolly can cut off about 15 inches.

Here's my issue:
I went back last night, roughly 7 hours after my successful troubleshooting, and it wouldn't start at first, same thing it would crank over, but then on my third attempt I got nothing, but some clicking (I know in cars, this means most likely your starter is shot).
1. Could this have been coincidently since the starter has been going thru a lot over the past few days in regards to my work? So after about letting it sit a few more minutes, it struggled but it started and still ran a bit rough.
2. Could carbs need to be cleaned?
3. Could the suction fuel pump be going bad?
4. Could it be the starter all along?
5. Could it just be my fuel line from tank is wayyy too long?

 

[racerone]

I sometimes have trouble convincing folks how important it is that these motors spin over rapidly to generate the spark.------Also how easy it is to take the starter apart for inspection..-----That would be your next step to take with the starter.

 

[jakedaawg]

While going into the starter is simple, as racer suggests, you may want to load test the batteries first. It's even easier. Just having 12.5 V tells you nothing important.

 

[derek7467]

Thanks guys. I think I will test the battery under load first to make sure I have 2 good batteries giving the starter juice. If that passes, I will take the starter out and test the solenoid first, then if that passes, test the actual starter.

That a good plan? Im assuming just to follow my service manual for starter/solenoid testing?

 

[racerone]

When I say that these starters are easy to inspect I usually get negative comments.---Folks just do not know.

 

[derek7467]

ha! My manual and visual inspection make it somewhat easier for me. But I think im gonna test the juice on the battery under load, then the solenoid when cranking, then ill remove and inspect. Thanks, I appreciate the help!

 

[newhamburgboating]

Racerone, I used to be mystified by the starter, thought it would be complicated with many pieces, After taking it 300 miles away only to find the starter died on the tow I had nothing to loose.

2 bolts later and discovered the bushing wire had severed off a crimp. simply sprayed it with carb clean until it looked like copper again and then crimped it back on. works better then when I bought it. Figure I hit a big enough bump to break the remaining strands holding on.

Derek, just from experience, if you hear the clicking that usually means the solenoid is ok. the click sound is the solenoid completing the circuit to pass the voltage through to the starter motor.

 

[derek7467]

Thanks guys, at-least I have more to go on now. This wouldn't cause the rough idle though when it does get started. Before I complain anymore about the rough idle I'm going to do some more troubleshooting either tomorrow or Saturday and will report back.

 

[hidef]

You might be having a problems with your voltage regulator / rectifier. It is located above the fuel pumps. Disconnect the two yellow wires running into it and try starting the engine. If it the engine fires up right away with it disconnected you found your problem. To verify that it is bad take ohm meter readings.

 

[derek7467]

hidef, any idea what it looks like? It looks like a black box shown on this parts page?
/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1999/J35PL3EEM/IGNITION%20SYSTEM%20--%20E,%20EL/parts.html
Should I just disconnect the whole connector? or just the yellow wires going into it?

For the link add boats dot net in front of the first /

 

[derek7467]

ugh just had a go at the boat. It started right away but still ran rough.. I then thought wait a second I think I left the choke opened from my troubleshooting yest and there and behold, the choke was open. Minute I close it, my starting issues arise... Im assuming, I need a carb rebuild?

 

[hidef]

The part # is 62 under the ignition system - PL.

 

[derek7467]

The part # is 62 under the ignition system - PL.

Yea I disconnected that, didn't make a difference. Started with choke opened and wouldn't start with choke closed. Even when it was started, ran rough

 

[newhamburgboating]

generally, if you need to add air it mean you have too much fuel.

I've never worked on something as new as yours, but if you have a low speed adjustment, lean it out, close choke 25%. see if it starts now. lean again, close choke 50%, try again etc...

inspecting the carb would be a relatively easy thing to do for peace of mind.

 

[racerone]

Compression test needs to be done here.--3 carburetors on this motor.---If oil injection is still in use it should be taken off and thrown away !

 

[Silvertip]

First, a bad starter does not cause running issues once the engine does start. A bad battery does not cause running issues once the engine is running because this is a "magneto" ignition, not a battery ignition. On the other hand, a no crank problem can be a bad/weak battery, bad cables, bad solenoid, or a bad starter. But for heavens sake don't tear into the starter right away because it is the last component in the electrical chain. Why not troubleshoot the easy stuff.

As for not firing with an external shot of gas/oil mix, and considering the plugs were fouled says you have a bad/weak ignition system or a very rich carburetion system. So fix one thing at a time starting with the starting problem. When you get this engine spinning over (cranking) then go after the fuel issue.