1998 Crownline 202br engine compartment access

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,671
I bought 2 37” Wise pontoon boat seats that fit in front of the hinged bulkhead. I notched the wood under the coaming panel & it’s a perfect fit.

installed repaired coaming panel.jpeg
 
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harringtondav

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May 26, 2018
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2,439
I suffered with an I/O for 35 years. In 2018 I traded in my 2-stroke outboard fishing boat for a deluxe model with a 4-stroke outboard. A year later I traded in my very last I/O for an outboard powered family boat.

I was really PO'd after the last sale. I kick myself for not doing it sooner.
I seriously considered an O/B BR for our current boat.
But $/hp was a real penalty. And max O/B hp vs I/O hp was 190 hp vs 250.
...so I drank the Kool aid and bought another I/O. ...I won't be whining in public.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,163
I seriously considered an O/B BR for our current boat.
But $/hp was a real penalty. And max O/B hp vs I/O hp was 190 hp vs 250.
...so I drank the Kool aid and bought another I/O. ...I won't be whining in public.
$/hassle beats out $/HP every time.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,671
As much as I like the Chevy small block family of engines, at my age (68) there is no way I'd buy another I/O boat. I'm not against repowering the old one but if I had to sell this one, and was buying another, I just don't want to have all that work to do, every season. In salt water you're in the worst environment for an I/O, closed cooling is a big advantage, but still you have to maintain the transom mount and drive system.
Outboards are very expensive for the power they have but there are so many advantages, that can't be overlooked:
NO hyper expensive cat converter exhaust, if you are in salt water, it is a very big issue
Easier winterizing
Easier normal maintenance for oil changes and tune ups
simpler drive system, no complex transom mount, ujoints and gimble bearing, and bellows that can leak, and ruin the ujoints and gimble bearing
Better performance due to less weight
Safer, due to no risk of igniting fumes in the bilge
However, anything other than minor repairs will be expensive because not much aftermarket is out there for modern outboards.
You're not doing a top end overhaul by picking up a set of small block Chevy heads like I did at the local speed shop.
And in salt use, eventually the mating surfaces of the cyl heads and block get so corroded that you get head gasket leaks.
A closed cooled inboard, if properly maintained can last longer than an outboard, even in salt water.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,566
A closed cooled inboard, if properly maintained can last longer than an outboard, even in salt water.
yes and no.

Buddy has a 48' Cruisers with twin diesels. barnacle buster ever 6 months, diver every week to clear out the strainer inlets. water pumps every 500 hours. Turbos every 1000 hours. CAC gaskets at every turbo swap. Drive service/bottom paint/haul out every 2 years. His anticipated maintenance spend per year is $10k.

another buddy of mine has triple 350's. he just went thru a cascading electrical failure that left him getting towed 75 miles. even though he had triples. one motor went dead, the others went off-line.

I dont feel bad with my trailered boat and a drive reseal and repaint every 5 years (corrosion) or the yearly zinc/fluid change/etc maintenance.
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,439
yes and no.

Buddy has a 48' Cruisers with twin diesels. barnacle buster ever 6 months, diver every week to clear out the strainer inlets. water pumps every 500 hours. Turbos every 1000 hours. CAC gaskets at every turbo swap. Drive service/bottom paint/haul out every 2 years. His anticipated maintenance spend per year is $10k.

another buddy of mine has triple 350's. he just went thru a cascading electrical failure that left him getting towed 75 miles. even though he had triples. one motor went dead, the others went off-line.

I dont feel bad with my trailered boat and a drive reseal and repaint every 5 years (corrosion) or the yearly zinc/fluid change/etc maintenance.
...good friend said "Boating is not for the meek of wallet. Truth.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,671
You need to post up pix. I showed how I did mine. It took a bit of thought but not hard. The final touches will be a remote oil filter mount & closed cooling. I am NOT pulling my rear seats every year just to change oil & winterize!
Your other option it take it to a good ’glass shop that does custom work and ask them how’d they do it. I could see cutting stuff to make it removable & use Dzus fasteners like airplanes to hold it together. My brother has a boat like that (2020 Chapparal with Merc 4.5). To change the starter or anything in the rear of the engine compartment the motor has to come out. Even if Merc’s fancy one point drain clogs & has to be rodded out, a tough job.
 
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