1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

[Norsemen9]

Got an 1996 Ocean Pro 200 that runs great except that at around 1800 rpm under a moderate load (pulling a large wakeboarder) she stalls out. Makes it impossible to steadily accelerate the skier out of the water, without jumping on the throttle to get past the stall.

Have replaced antisyphon valve, fuel line and bulb. That helped, but with a large load like driving up onto a steep trailor she still stalls. Runs great through all the other throttle ranges even WTO.

Could this be the signs of a weak fuel pump? Seems strange that it only happens at that point in the throttle. Also, while idling out of the marina she occasionally dies out.

 

[boobie]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

Sounds like your carbs need attention or else a good sync & lync. One more thing, make sure your timer base is not sticking.

 

[daselbee]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

If you can run it at WOT, after getting past that dead spot, it is not the fuel pump.

Worry about first...as Boobie says...the passages in the carbs (intermediate fuel circuit) being clean, and even more importantly, a good proper link and sync. I would look at L&S first since that is free and quick to do.

 

[Norsemen9]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

Thanks to both of you for the helpful info !

I was considering a sync & link, and will try that first. On the carbs, the factory service manual specifies a certain number of turns to set the "slow speed needle & spring" on the reassembly after cleaning. How much more adjustment is usually required after that to get them right?


Back in high school I could handle 1-Holley on top of a big block chevy, but the thought of trying to listen to the motor and tune 6-carbs sounds monumental. From reading the manual, it sounds like the predetermined turns gets it within 95%. Comments?

 

[noelm]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

The carbs on your motor will be so simple to fix, if you could do a holly, then tie one hand behind your back and start on the outboard!

 

[daselbee]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

Not a big deal. It really isn't, despite what the book may say....
There are tricks that you can use to help set the idle mixture, and I will be glad to go into great detail, but it would be best to talk about that after you get the other problems straightened out.

Other problems....when looking at your link and sync, be sure to examine the throttle pickup roller. Very very often, the outer clear/amber plastic sheath has hardened, cracked and fallen off, leaving just the black center. Check for that, as you cannot do a proper L&S with the pickup roller 1/2 it's normal size.

No, predetermined turns does not guarantee 95% correct. I find that I have to open the needles about 3 turns more than book recommendations. I truly believe that it is because of the ethanol, which is a built in oxygenating agent in the fuel.

Anyway, don't be intimidated with settings (or obsessed for that matter)...they are very forgiving and very easy to get right.

You have to get that flat spot fixed before any fine tuning can begin.

 

[Norsemen9]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

daselbee, I'm glad you mentioned the plastic sheath on the roller. That has been a mystery to me for the longest and why I was considering the sync & link.

Would a piece of snug fitting rubber tubing work as a replacement sheath?

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

Rubber is too soft for the cam roller, I replaced mine with a delrin sleeve but the proper sleeves are very cheap to buy.

Bogging on take off is common, check the Throttle roller timing arm adjustment.
http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=357667

 

[daselbee]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

Roller is P/N 432639, lists for $7.20. Only available from Evinrude. As 'ol jonesg says, chk the throttle roller pickup point, which can and will change if that roller is bad.


Oooppps...just checked the link above...that's for a 60* motor. Will not look at all like your 90* looper.
Disregard as it does not apply to you.

 

[Jayrock]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

Dude I have The same exact motor. Had the same problem when I got it. Sounds like the cam Pickup point is out of adjustment. Too tight will cause the butterflys to open before the timing is advanced enough, causing the motor to bog. As you push the throttle forward more, The timer base moves forward advancing the timing and getting everything working together again. Also check the Idle air bleed orifices. They are the little metal plug looking things right above the adjuster screw. They have a tiny hole in them. Make sure this is clean and clear. One thing I have learned through this site, is if you have a motor that is new to you, with mild running issues ( bogging, coughing, Dying while Idleing and just poor performance) The very first thing that needs to happen is a carb dissassembly and cleaning. You should get kits for all 6 and just rebuild them. Not too difficult at all. Then you will have piece of mind that at least your carbs are clean, Makes a world of difference. If you still have bogging issues after a thorough cleaning and LYNC-N-SYNC, then update this thread for further assistance. Listen to Daselbee, I have saved lots of time and money from his advice... WORD!

 

[Norsemen9]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

You guys were right on! I replaced the throttle pickup roller, linc & sync, then rebuilt the carbs and just now returned from the test run, and the stall is GONE!

OK, but I'm confused about the final adjustment on the Slow Speed Mixture. (I was very precise with the "initial" settings during the rebuild.) Followed the directions in the Factory Svc. Manual, with the boat in the water and running the engine at idle speed my Son manned the helm while I cautiously made minor adjustments to each mixture screw. The engine was not "sneezing or backfiring" indicating a lean condition, nor did it run extremely rough.

So I guess my question is how smooth should a 200hp outboard motor along at idle speed? Smoother is always better, but with no discernable improvement after about a half turn in clockwise direction, I lost my nerve and returned the settings to the marks I had made for the initial adjustment.

Thought I had better check-in for some advice before spoiling the success I have acheived so far.

Did I stop adjusting too soon?

 

[daselbee]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

I cautiously made minor adjustments to each mixture screw. The engine was not "sneezing or backfiring" indicating a lean condition, nor did it run extremely rough.

So I guess my question is how smooth should a 200hp outboard motor along at idle speed? Smoother is always better, but with no discernable improvement after about a half turn in clockwise direction, I lost my nerve and returned the settings to the marks I had made for the initial adjustment.

No discernable improvement.....that's exactly what I was talking about above when I said it wasn't as critical as the book makes it out to be.

I have a routine I use when I want it perfect, but it is involved and takes time.
This works only if there is nothing else wrong..i.e. dirty carbs, air leaks, bad ignition, etc.

First, all screws must be set equally "X" number of turns out. Book says 5, but I go 8.

Then, I adjust the idle down til it is barely running. Maybe 500 rpm or so. Maybe slower, if it will go slower.

With it idling so slow, now you can discern differences in the screw adjustments. Turn in 1/2 turn at a time, run it, idle it, let it stabilize out so to speak, and listen for a lean sneeze. Once you get those screws in so far, it will begin to lean sneeze, back out til you are satisfied. If it is too rich, it will smoke.

The book says 1/4 turn adjustments, nonsense. Also, don't be afraid (lose your nerve) of these screws, you cannot do any damage.

Once you have it the way you want it, idle it back up to 750 or so.

EDIT:

One other point, and I will guarantee you this....it will NEVER idle right if ANY of the throttle butterflies are even slightly open when at the idle position. THEY MUST ALL BE CLOSED. This is truly one of the very critical adjustments on these engines. When you did the link and sync, this is one of the very first steps, and must be done perfectly. I take the carb bodies off, and adjust the butterflies. I can see them better, and tap on them to hear if any are open. (Sounds different if one is open).

 

[Norsemen9]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

Thanks! You have supplied great advice.

One last question (for now), when you run the motor close to full throttle and then return to idle, what controls the RPM's to bring them back down to 750?

Is is normal for the motor that was running at 4000 and quickly reduced to idle to take about 15 - 20 seconds to make that final step drop down from 1100 to 750?

 

[daselbee]

Re: 1996 Ocean Pro 200 - weak fuel pump?

No it is not normal for the idle to slowly go down to 750 as you quickly decelerate from a WOT position.
It is all mechanical.

The idle speed is controlled by the timer base under the flywheel. The screw you adjust to change the idle simply moves the timer base clockwise or counterclockwise to set the idle timing, which controls the speed of the idle.
Turn the screw and watch the timer base....it moves.

So, if you bring it back from WOT and it is slow to return to idle, the timer base is probably sticking due to dried and hardened grease.
There is "some" spring pressure on the timer base to return to it's idle stop from that plastic cigar tube shaped linkage assy that you adjust the idle with using the screw in the end. Maybe not enough to quickly overcome the dried grease.

Watch the timer base as you bring it back to idle position and make sure it does not stick as it approaches the idle stop. You do not have to do it on the water with the engine running. Just move the throttle with the engine off, and watch that timer base.

All this is covered very well in a proper link and sync.