1996 Larson 194 SEI hull restoration

[byson2]

I've already made a couple posts concerning this boat so going forward I'll limit them to this general post.
I've got definite stringer rot on the boat. The bulkhead pictured toward the front of the boat is also rotten. One stringer in front of that bulkhead on the port side is rotten too. To replace those I'm assuming the cap will need to come off ? Are there any other feasible options ?
Also, while this is a 20 year boat it's doesn't have too many hours. The engine and outdrive look and function like new and from my understanding the boat was never docked in the water when not in use. The transom does not show any issues. I tried to remove the screws holding the speedo cable and they're tight. I was able to get the screws holding the plus housing removed but there's no evidence of rot. I've also tapped all around the outdrive with a hammer and it sounds solid. Any reason to believe there's issues with it ?
Thanks !

 

[Woodonglass]

Have you checked the transom for rot?

 

[byson2]

Have you checked the transom for rot?

I haven't drilled any holes in it but as stated above, I did tap all around the outdrive with a ball peen hammer and it sounded and felt solid. I also removed the 3 screws from the brass drain plus housing and they were tight and dry. I've read you can drill a 1/4" into the transom to get a better idea. Would you recommend that?

 

[gsxrdan]

im no expert, but have read many posts concerning this, and the general consensus is - if u have a rotten stringer, then you have a rotten transom. drill several test holes (from the inside!), transom is going to be over an inch thick, so drill deep enough to get thorough samples. even if the samples come out clean and dry, the transom is possibly still compromised - wood rot spreads THRU the wood. it would be a shame to do all this work, and never know if/when your transom will fail or not, and even reintroduce the rot to all your new timber work. thats a nice looking boat, and should be well worth the effort - good luck with it!

 

[JASinIL2006]

You must drill into the transom to be sure it is free of rot. My Larson has carpeted panels the are screwd into the transom. Those panels hid significant rot the tapping, etc., did not reveal. In addition to the area around the keyhole (esp. the lower parts), be sure to check around the thru-bolts for the swim ladder. That's where the rot started on my SEI.

As others have said, you may have rotten stringers but a solid transom, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

 

[byson2]

Ok I'll drill into the transom and see what comes out.
On another note, are there any possible options for repairing the stringers and bulkhead towards the front of the boat without removing the cap ?

 

[JASinIL2006]

On mine, the entire bow seating area, including the deck between the bow seats, is a cast fiberglass piece that is part of the cap. Is that how yours is, too? (I can't tell from the pictures.) I would not have been able to do any work under that section without lifting the entire cap (which includes the driver's panel, etc.). If you're lucky, yours can be disassembled without removing the entire cap.

 

[byson2]

It's all one piece JASinil2006. Did you completely remove your cap away from the hull or just lift up a little ways with supports?

 

[JASinIL2006]

I didn't need to get under the bow section on mine. Since I have the engineered stringers/bulkheads (fiberglass and foam), I didn't need to replace stringers. I had to remove enough decking to get wet foam out, but I only remove the deck from the stern to about 6" from the bow section. That allowed me to leave the cap/bow section in place.

Hopefully someone who has faced your situation will chime in, but it would seem your options will be to either remove the cap or cut out (and later replace) part of the bow section. I really don't know if cutting the bow section is feasible, but it might be an option.

Crossing my fingers that your transom is solid at least...

 

[byson2]

I drilled two 1/4' holes into the transom near the gimbal. Nothing black or rotten came out-just glass and wood shavings. I pokes and prodded throughout the whole thing and couldn't find any soft spots either. I'm not saying there might not be issues, but nothing is evident.
On this (wider) boat the ladder holes do not go into the transom area so water intrusion from there would not be an issue.

 

[proshadetree]

My transom was rotten just under the bottom two outdrive bolts. When i did the test drill i went high and it was fine. Couldn't get that low with the engine in the boat. Replace just the stringers and floor. Put the boat in the water and she leaked like the plug was gone. My drain was in a totally separate piece of wood. If you are in it make sure to the best of your ability its solid. I had to tear mine down twice. Not a good fealing.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Maybe you are lucky and transom is good, but be sure to drill some holes lower, an inch or two from the bottom of the hull near the keyhole. If those come out dry and light, I think you're probably in the clear!

 

[byson2]

Concerning foam...some of the foam I'm removing is obviously wet. I've read some leave it out, other use the 2 part mix, and some use foam sheets or blocks and cut to fit. I prefer to use foam for obvious safety reasons and I'm sure it makes the boat more sound proof. I don't know if it offers any structural support on this boat or not though. Recommendations?

 

[kcassells]

Remove all the old foam wet or dry. Replace w/2 lb foam. Mfg. did so besides safety it is just a good idea. Todays foam is closed cell vs. old open cell that lets water in eventually they can all go bad. Depends on how well you take care of the boat.
The other methods you referred to also work.
4 lb foam is usally related to structural needs. by mfg.I doubt this boat requires that.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I would use 2 lb. pour-in foam. It is not hard to use and it fills the space completely. Foam is an important safety feature. Why endanger family/friends by leaving it out?