1996 2052 w/ mercruiser 5.7

bpsf83

Recruit
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
5
Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 1996 Bayline 2052LS Cuddy with a Mercruiser 5.7L engine, alpha one. The boat runs well, and is very pretty to look at. But i've had some concerns.

The engine loves to die. I've got to give it significant gas (from the control lever) when starting it in order to get it to turn over, and after turning over it will idle rough (the batteries are fully charged). It always seems to be on the verge of choking when idling at any temperature. It does not die when I put it in gear, so I don't think its the lower shift cable, or the neutral safety switch. The engine has 218 hours on it, and had a carb rebuild last year at roughly

Update:

I have this Carb:
Liter/ Model # Year Cyl. Beginning Serial # Ending Serial # Original Carb. # Mfg. Carb. Carb Code & Model
5.7L(2BBL) 1996-1997 V-8 OF601000 OK999999 3310-807312A1 M2/MERCARB

I can't tell, but it seems that the brass plate at the very top of the carb undernearth the flame arrestor (round thing that sits on top?) does not move. I cannot confirm this, but it seems to always be in the fully open position.

I changed out the fuel pump yesterday because she died after about 4 minutes of motor running while trying to motor out of the marina. The engine refused to start regardless of what I did, and would only start if I sprayed some carb cleaner inside and then tried to start, as soon as the carb cleaner burned off, it would die again. Once I replaced the pump it ran perfectly.

We motored out onto the bay running perfectly, but after about 10 minutes of almost full throttle on plane the water flow alarm went off and the temp gauge went up to 200. I feel that this was possibly because there was alot of growth on the stern drive that I neglected to brush off before leaving. I immediately turned the key to the off position, the engine started running EXTREMELY rough, coughing out billows of smoke and sputtering with some knocking, keep in mind that I had shut off power to the engine via the ignition key and also turned off the battery switch once the engine didn't shut off from the key, but still It sputtered for about 20 seconds knocking and coughing out some smoke then it died. I let it sit for about 30 minutes, turned the battery back on, cleaned off the remaining marine growth on the stern drive turned the key, no water suction alarm at this point, pumped the throttle lever, turned the key past on to start, and after about 5 cranks it started. Temp had fallen below 160 degrees.

I kept the RPM under 2000 all the way home, and it ran perfectly for the .5 mile trip back to the marina. Temp remained normal if not slightly below normal.

When I got back to the slip, I put the muffs on (in the water), turned the key and it started first try, I then ran it for 5-10 minutes on the muffs without a single problem.

I am at my wits end, I have NO idea what is going on, and I fear that i'm in a little over my head.

Parts I have replaced:
Fuel Pump
Spark Plugs (gapped correctly)
Cap and Rotor
Water Seperating Fuel Filter
Oil Filter
Changed the oil

The fuel line I was speaking about is in fact the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm burst protection line. This was clogged to hell with some sort of gunk, I cleaned this out the best I could when we stalled in the middle of the bay.

I have no idea where the idle speed screw is.

Sorry for the delay, I truly appreciate all of your input. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving weekend.

Some basic info on the boat.

The boat is a 1996 Bayline 2052 LS 40th Anniversary edition Cuddy cabin.
It has a Mercruiser 5.7L Alpha one Motor
It has the Mercarb 2bbl carb
currently the engine has 228 hours on it
It has two batteries with a switch, I have only operated the boat using the 1 location on the switch.
The engine looks to have a somewhat substantial amount of rust on the outside.

and just out of sheer curiosity, should the carb make a suction hissing noise when the flame arrestor is off?

Sheesh, I am such a noob when it comes to this.
 

dingdongs

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
649
Re: 1996 2052 w/ mercruiser 5.7

use fresh fuel from an outbord tank to eliminate fuel problem.carb rebuild then inevitable.GUNKED UP
impellor needs to b replaced too and you have to split the drive 4 this one.do not run b4 changing.
check the running in the pitch black with no light visible as you may have an arching problem if you can see tracing.the leads will require replacing if this occurs.
 

bpsf83

Recruit
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
5
Re: 1996 2052 w/ mercruiser 5.7

use fresh fuel from an outbord tank to eliminate fuel problem.carb rebuild then inevitable.GUNKED UP
impellor needs to b replaced too and you have to split the drive 4 this one.do not run b4 changing.
check the running in the pitch black with no light visible as you may have an arching problem if you can see tracing.the leads will require replacing if this occurs.

I appreciate your response, I think I'll have a mechanic come look at it before I start replacing any more parts. At this point, were out of the less expensive range and into the more expensive range.

On the overheat, it was run at a high temperature, but the moment the alarm went off i cut power. It was run at 200 degrees for less than 20 seconds.
 

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
Re: 1996 2052 w/ mercruiser 5.7

I appreciate your response, I think I'll have a mechanic come look at it before I start replacing any more parts. At this point, were out of the less expensive range and into the more expensive range.
On the overheat, it was run at a high temperature, but the moment the alarm went off i cut power. It was run at 200 degrees for less than 20 seconds.

Welcome to IBOATS.

Seems like you've made a sound decision to go ahead and ask for some onsite help-nothing wrong with that.
Several guys here make/made a living doing just what you have decided to do. Check you're getting a good one.

The mechanic will probably explain this to you and I would guess recommend checking the impeller but even 20 seconds at 200 degrees can mean a degraded impeller and lack of water flow can cause some high temperatures on various components. Hopefully you caught it in time.

Let us know how it comes out.

Mark
 

bpsf83

Recruit
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
5
Re: 1996 2052 w/ mercruiser 5.7

Welcome to IBOATS.

Seems like you've made a sound decision to go ahead and ask for some onsite help-nothing wrong with that.
Several guys here make/made a living doing just what you have decided to do. Check you're getting a good one.

The mechanic will probably explain this to you and I would guess recommend checking the impeller but even 20 seconds at 200 degrees can mean a degraded impeller and lack of water flow can cause some high temperatures on various components. Hopefully you caught it in time.

Let us know how it comes out.

Mark

Definitely, it will have to wait a week or two. It says rain for the next week here. Gotta love it.
 

81 Checkmate

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
1,360
Re: 1996 2052 w/ mercruiser 5.7

Yer on the right track buy letting a mechanic look at it........

If you are mechanicaly inclined you can fix this yourself....First the Impeller needs replaced in the lower unit... Second the carb needs rebuilt...choke not working and needs adjustment and so on.

When the motor wouldn't shut off it's called Dieseling...A hot motor still sparking from carbon build up in the cyclinders.... just like your car when its low on coolling fluid... spewing fluid and smoking, coughing ect. That's what a motor does when it get's to hot.

Do yourself a favor and take the time to do some reading, research your motor/drive and about I/O boats.

Post up hear on iboats and the folks will help you out!

Good Luck!
 
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