1995 Searay 5.7 GM winterizing mods..

[flashback]

I just posted a question to Rick Stevens in Cedarcove's thread on the same subject but decided to start my own to avoid confusion.

new to me boat so I expected some pit falls. The first was the block drains, they were the little wingnut spigots like they used to put on a radiator in the old days. I broke the wings off and got the entire fittings out of the block and all was good. Come spring I want to mod these drains, with something similar to the manifold drains as they worked well.

I pulled the circulation hose off the engine completely because I found it easier to get the bottom end off the pump by taking the top end off the Tstat. I would like to put a fitting in the bottom of the hose to eliminate this step.

I cut the input water hose just before the steering cooler and plan to put a tee fitting in it..

basically just trying to make the job less of a pain in the butt and would like any tips as to what you folks have done..Thanks.

 

[Scott06]

For the block drain I just use 1/4" hex pipe plugs

Merc makes a hose with a drain at the low point -the drain takes one of the blue plastic plugs

 

[flashback]

For the block drain I just use 1/4" hex pipe plugs

Merc makes a hose with a drain at the low point -the drain takes one of the blue plastic plugs View attachment 351551

I like the plastic wing type plugs in manifold, they were easy, didn't know about the hose, thanks!
This is exactly why I posted. Always looking for good ideas.

 

[zellerj]

If you take an old skinny screwdriver, and round off the edges with a file, it makes a great tool for taking off hoses without tearing them. If you put some grease around the nipples the hoses will come off very easily next year.

I also installed ball valves in the block, that have 1/4 inch threads with a 1/4 inch hole in the ball, to facilitate draining the block. You still need to poke it with a piece of wire or something similar to make sure all the water is drained out, but the ball valve is easy to poke. The only tool I need to winterize my engine is a 5/16th nut driver to remove the hose clamps.

94MBV02 - Apollo Valves 94MBV02 - 1/4" FNPT x MNPT Full Port Mini Ball Valve

Apollo Valves 94MBV02 - 1/4" FNPT x MNPT Full Port Mini Ball Valve - <br><br> The 94MBV Series is a heavy pattern two-piece forged brass full port ball valve designed for water, oil or gas in commercial and light industrial applications. <br><br> <b>Features:</b><br> <ul><li>Reversible Handle...

www.supplyhouse.com

 

[Scott06]

I like the plastic wing type plugs in manifold, they were easy, didn't know about the hose, thanks!
This is exactly why I posted. Always looking for good ideas.

They just need to be replaced every couple years the plastic gets brittle and can break off when losening it. A bag of five is like $8...

 

[Scott Danforth]

a 1/2"-13 bolt, 1/2" long with an o-ring works in place of the blue break-prone plastic ones. you can buy the stainless wing-nut versions from hardin marine for a few bucks each.

 

[flashback]

If you take an old skinny screwdriver, and round off the edges with a file, it makes a great tool for taking off hoses without tearing them. If you put some grease around the nipples the hoses will come off very easily next year.

I also installed ball valves in the block, that have 1/4 inch threads with a 1/4 inch hole in the ball, to facilitate draining the block. You still need to poke it with a piece of wire or something similar to make sure all the water is drained out, but the ball valve is easy to poke. The only tool I need to winterize my engine is a 5/16th nut driver to remove the hose clamps.

94MBV02 - Apollo Valves 94MBV02 - 1/4" FNPT x MNPT Full Port Mini Ball Valve

Apollo Valves 94MBV02 - 1/4" FNPT x MNPT Full Port Mini Ball Valve - <br><br> The 94MBV Series is a heavy pattern two-piece forged brass full port ball valve designed for water, oil or gas in commercial and light industrial applications. <br><br> <b>Features:</b><br> <ul><li>Reversible Handle...

www.supplyhouse.com

I like this idea, thanks! I may not have room to do the ball valves but it's certainly worth a look..

 

[flashback]

a 1/2"-13 bolt, 1/2" long with an o-ring works in place of the blue break-prone plastic ones. you can buy the stainless wing-nut versions from hardin marine for a few bucks each.

I like this as well, and I guess it would be a good time to use some of my aviation seal. thanks.

 

[Lou C]

In fresh water the ball valves may work but in the salt you need a drain plug that can be removed so the hole can be rodded out so they can drain. They will often get clogged with rust flakes.
The original OMC/Volvo drain plugs seem to last forever. I fail to see what “problem” the plastic Merc plugs “solve”, if you put some marine grease or gasket sealer on the threads they do not seize in place even with my 100% salt water use.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I fail to see what “problem” the plastic Merc plugs “solve”,

you are not the one selling a $.03 plastic plug that temp ages and breaks for $3.

if you were, you would "see" that the cure makes you money. its not solving anything. its hype marketing and upselling to make a profit.

agree that with proper maintenance, a brass plug in a cast iron threaded bore will last nearly forever.

 

[Lou C]

Yes the “problem” is not enough profits and the “solution” is designed in planned failure.

 

[flashback]

Well the last thing I want is for a plug to break off in the block, it was quite a chore getting the old drain valves out of the block, so I'll try to find the stainless or brass wing style and put some anti seize on them each year.
Best I can tell the inlet hose going to the steering cooler is 1 1/4 in. and I want to install a reduced tee fitting just before the cooler. Ideally the reduced leg of the tee could be plugged with the same plugs as the other drains. 1/4 npt I think. Does such an animal exist? If not I could cobble it together.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Hardin Marine - Stainless Steel Lifetime Series Sea Pump Drain Plugs - Mercruiser 22-806608A02 / 8M2000874

Stainless Steel Lifetime Series Sea Pump Drain Plugs - Mercruiser 22-806608A02 / 8M2000874

www.hardin-marine.com

 

[flashback]

I put this together and plan to install it in the raw water hose below the steering cooler.

 

[flashback]

Looks like it's time to get out the old JB weld. I was attempting to install a brass ball valve in the block drain and found the threads stripped in the block. I ran a tap to clean it out but no joy. I can barely get my hand to the area so drilling is out of the question. My plan is to glue a nipple into the block an then install the ball valve to the nipple. I could glue the male end of the valve into the block but then when the valve fails it could be very difficult getting it back out. So just fishing for Ideas..
on a brighter note, the coupling I made up for the water inlet hose worked out well.

 

[Scott06]

Looks like it's time to get out the old JB weld. I was attempting to install a brass ball valve in the block drain and found the threads stripped in the block. I ran a tap to clean it out but no joy. I can barely get my hand to the area so drilling is out of the question. My plan is to glue a nipple into the block an then install the ball valve to the nipple. I could glue the male end of the valve into the block but then when the valve fails it could be very difficult getting it back out. So just fishing for Ideas..
on a brighter note, the coupling I made up for the water inlet hose worked out well.

Unfortunately the idea i have is to lull the engine and retap or heilcoil correctly. Can you start the tap in there? If not likely plug or nipple is busted off in there.… dont think they make expansion plugs that small

 

[Scott Danforth]

Looks like it's time to get out the old JB weld. I was attempting to install a brass ball valve in the block drain and found the threads stripped in the block. I ran a tap to clean it out but no joy. I can barely get my hand to the area so drilling is out of the question. My plan is to glue a nipple into the block an then install the ball valve to the nipple. I could glue the male end of the valve into the block but then when the valve fails it could be very difficult getting it back out. So just fishing for Ideas..
on a brighter note, the coupling I made up for the water inlet hose worked out well.

Pull the motor

 

[SternDriveEd]

I like your idea of a ball valve on the p.s. cooler hose. The barbed adapter you made up should work. Just wondering about how flush the inside surface of the 1/4 n p t fitting is to the inside of the metal barbed piece. Draining all the seawater out during winter lay up is important.

 

[flashback]

Pull the motor

I'm not set up for heavy lifting, heck I don't have a space flat enough to park the trailer where I live. I suppose the engine will be pulled someday but not this year.
I'll give the Jb weld a try and hope it holds up for a few years then if I decide I like this boat I have a farmer friend who has a barn where I could pull the engine, put a new starter, fuel pump, drill and tap the drains and what ever else needs doin.

The way the cost of fuel is going I may spend my time and money fixing up my old sailboat..LOL

 

[flashback]

I like your idea of a ball valve on the p.s. cooler hose. The barbed adapter you made up should work. Just wondering about how flush the inside surface of the 1/4 n p t fitting is to the inside of the metal barbed piece. Draining all the seawater out during winter lay up is important.

It stands a bit proud inside the tube but this boat is in fresh water so it will probably hold up for a while. If it rusts out I will try a plastic connector.