1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Status
Not open for further replies.

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

It is finally time to start adding things back to the boat. I made a template out of sheet foam, cut it out, and glued the two pieces together with PL glue.



DSC00604-1.jpg


DSC00605.jpg


DSC00606.jpg


DSC00607.jpg
 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I got the transom soaked with resin and applied a coat of 1.5oz CSM to the inside section. I did this to just water proof it.

I test fit it last night and it looks like I will need to fare the transom a bit to get the thing to fit flush.

 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Now it is time to install the transom in the boat.

Here is what I did.

1. I sanded each surface one more time with my DA sander and 60 grit
2. Cleaned each surface with acetone
3. Mixed 3 quarts of resin, added my hardener, and then mixed in 1/4" Chopped fibers and cabosil until it reached PB consistency
3. I spread it on both surfaces about 1/4" thick and slapped it on.
4. Once in place I used 2X4 Clamps for pressure and I used the sqeeze out to make my fillets.

DONE!

Now I mixed my resin very slow and it still went off in 20 minutes. Talk about close!. Also You can see in the pictures that I did not take the transom all the way to the drain hole (was like that from the factory), and added a 3/4" piece of PVC that leads to the drain. I then filleted the area with PB. There is no way water will get in that wood now.

My plan today is to tab in the transom with two layers of 1708 and then skin it with two layers of 1708.

Major Clampage!!

DSC00628.jpg


I alternated between flat and on end for the clamps

DSC00629.jpg


Filleted the strakes for easy fiberglass layup

DSC00630.jpg


This is the new drain. It leads back to the brass threaded drain plug.

DSC00631.jpg


Here you can see where I added some PLY to the 2X4 so that I could have pressure on the outside. It worked nice.

DSC00632.jpg
 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Well here is the video from the transom installation. It is almost 20 minutes long, so you are allowed to fast forward through the boring parts.

 

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Ok.... it is Picture and video time again. I got the transom completely tabbed in with two layers of 1708 all the way around. I am very happy with the way it turned out, and has very few air pockets. I just need to skin the face of it with two layers, but it got cold today, and SUPER windy!!



Tabbing Done! It looks like air on the bottom of the transom, but it is not. It is the glare from the flash.

DSC00635.jpg


Still need to cut out the drain hole.

DSC00636.jpg


DSC00637.jpg



 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Well I got the skin put on the transom today. I cut two different sizes for the skin. One large than the other. I then sanded down the area really good and wiped it down with acetone and wet out one later at a time until all the air bubbles were gone.


DSC00638.jpg


 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Well I got a little work done on the boat this afternoon. The video camera had a dead battery so pictures will have to work for now. I got the keyhole cut out and got the two main stringers cut and roughed in. I still need to cut them to height, but I can do that later.

Here is how I will be bedding in the stringers

1. Use small slivers of pink foam to hold the stringers off the hull about 1/2"
2. Squirt PL under the stringer and mush it in with a tongue depressor
3. Come back with PB and make my Fillets. I really do not like to use Pl for fillets as it tends to bubble as it dries.


The black line is the Deck height. I will cut that later

DSC00639.jpg


This is actually where the main stringers stop. It steps in here and continues to the front.
DSC00640.jpg
 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

This was a very productive weekend. I am sunburned and the stringers and main bulkheads are cut and one side resined. Cutting stringers is HARD WORK! My father in law came over and helped me and that really helped alot. I ran into a few snags throughout the process but I was able to recover and move on down the road.

Here are some pictures and a video. The video is not my best, but I was really moving this weekend and my brain was on auto pilot.

DSC00639.jpg


I went ahead and cut out the rest of the front stringers and started from scratch.

DSC00643.jpg


New front stringers

DSC00645.jpg


Test fitting the gas tank

DSC00646.jpg


Using oops method of tracing the stringers. You suspend the stringer above the hull and put a market on the end of the long stick. You then drag that stick along the hull and it will trace the contour on the stringer.

DSC00647.jpg


DSC00648.jpg
 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

A coat a slow kick Poly so it will soak in and help the fiberglass to stick, and waterproof them.

DSC00649.jpg


DSC00650.jpg


Video

 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

The stringers are officially bed in place, and most of them are cut to deck height. The PL needs to dry for a few day before I start to make PB fillets. The PL just bubbles up and looks like crap, and I want it perfect. I will also be adding 4 extra bulkheads to add to the strength.


Anyway here are some pictures from this weekend and the first of two videos

Kinda nice to see deck height again. I used some 2X2 to hold up the outer stringers while a put PL under them.

Notice that I have my brad nailer in the boat. That thing proved irreplaceable when it came to holding something in place. I used it like a tack weld.

DSC00665.jpg


DSC00666.jpg




 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

WOW!!! What a weekend. I really got in gear and got some stuff done. It is good to feel productive. I ended up adding three bulkheads between the stringer sets and I started to PB all the joints. The factory did not have any support from the inner stringers to the outer, so it should be bullet proof. It is going to be alot more work for me as far as glassing goes, but I do not mind. I tinkered with the PB recipe and found that too much 1/4" chopped fibers creates a mess. Just enough chopped and tons of cabosil was the ticket.

You will notice that my fuel vent hose is on the starboard side and has to penetrate the deck and both the stringers. That is where ALOT of water was getting in under the deck, and I want to eliminate that. I am going to relocate it to the rear of the boat where the fuel filler is. That way it never penetrates the deck.

Anyway, here are a bunch of pictures and a couple of videos.

Test fitting the Tank

DSC00690.jpg


This is the kick out that I have to build to fit the Big Block. I have to glass the lower part of the stringer first before putting this in.

DSC00692.jpg


Everything cut to height

DSC00693.jpg


My helpers. For some reason they were by my side all day. That never happens.

DSC00697.jpg


It is going to be very strong

DSC00698.jpg
 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

My PB mix

DSC00701.jpg



I found a big metal spoon that worked great for rounding out the fillets.


DSC00702.jpg


This was my idea for holding up the cover. Just some PVC PIPE and some elbows.

DSC00704.jpg







 
Last edited:

vandentr

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
88
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Frisco,

I came across these descriptions for the various fiberglass materials and so I decided to create a bit of a visual for those of us attempting to get our heads around the various types of fiberglass and their uses:

1) Chopped Strand Mat (CSM) - Short glass strands laid down in a random pattern and held together by a resin-soluble binder. Easily wet out and able to conform to almost any shape, CSM is used as the base layer for many laminates. It is also the most watertight and adhesive of the glass materials. CSM is sold in various widths and lengths. The most common weights are .75 oz., 1.5 oz., and 2 ounces per square foot. Note: Do not use with epoxy.
csm.jpg

2) Woven Roving - Coarse plain weave material made of large flat bundles of glass fibers called rovings. WR is woven in 0-90 degrees; the highest strength is in these directions. Woven roving does not bond well to other layers. It?s best to use alternate layers of CSM as a binder. In fact, most all boats larger than about 20? are built with alternating layers of mat and roving. Woven roving is sold in various lengths and widths; the usual weights are 18 and 24 ounces per square yard.
WOVEN-ROVING.jpg

3) Cloth - Cloths of various weaves have exceptionally high tensile strength but provide little rigidity. Cloths come in many widths, and also in tapes which are selvedged on both sides to prevent unraveling. Cloths come in various weights from .25 oz. to 10 oz. per square yard.
cloth.jpg

4) Dual Bias Mat/Roving (1708 is an example) - This is a specialty material composed of a lightweight mat,usually .5 oz., and two layers of rovings at + and ? 45 degrees, all stitched together. This material reduces lay-up time, conforms better than woven roving, and can be used with any resin system since the fibers are stitched together. It also provides a more efficient use of resin than woven roving as the fabric design avoids the ?lace pattern? characteristic of the woven material.
biaxialmat.jpg

Interestingly, most materials will NOT allow a resin to attach to them. The resin will encapsulate the material but not actually touch it. Various chemicals, called sizings, are applied to the fibers to allow the resin to bond directly (Generally organo-silane chemistry compatible with polyester, vinylester and epoxy resin systems).

Note: Never allow the materials to become wet; resins will not bond to wet fibers and water will dissolve and wash away chemicals used in finishes.

Fillers:

1) Thickening Agents - You might know it as Fumed Silica, or by its trade names, "Aerosilor" or "Cabosil". These are used to thicken the mix and add thixotropic properties. In layman's terms, this gives the mixture ?hang? on a vertical surface.

2) Bulking Agents - These reduce the density of the putty and make it easy to sand. They include glass microspheres, phenolic microspheres, and wood flour. Glass microspheres are microscopically small hollow glass and phenolic (resin) spheres which add light-weight bulk to the mix. Wood Flour is essentially fine sawdust which is just another type of thickener.

3) Structural Agents - These are comonly referred to as milled fibers, which are basically ground up chop strand mat (CSM) and come in a variety of sizes.

Hopefully this brief rundown will help somebody who's trying to wrap their arms around the fiberglass lingo that is so important to understand when doing restoration projects such as these!

-TVB
 

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I didn't get a whole lot done about this weekend, but at least all the fillets are done, and I'm ready to start fiberglassing. The video doesn't go over a whole lot, but I do go over my foam plan in extensive detail. I even illustrated it for you.


 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I put in eleven long hot hours in on her today and I have half the stringers completely glassed in. I went with 2 layers of alternating 1708 on all exposed wood, and will add another layer in the engine bay. Considering that Sea Ray had almost no glass on the stringers at all, with the exception of the engine box, I would say I am good. I hope to have the rest of the glassing done tomorrow.


 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

After talking with a boat builder here, I have learned a great deal in the past week. Most things I have done are correct, but a few I need to change. This guy is in his 60s and has rebuilt lots of boats. Here is what he said.

1. Seal everything and do not use limber holes.
2. Use a rubberized coating inside your compartments after all glassing is done
3. Glass and rubberize the underside of the deck
4. Use stainless screws to hold down the deck even if you are using epoxy, and seal with 5200.
5. Epoxy is over rated, and if not mixed just right is not as strong (his words not mine)
6. Poly will fry your brain as it has his... LOL!!!
7. If you are a good glasser you do not need 1708 and you should use the CSM woven method :facepalm: I guess I am not good enough... LOL
8. Do not seal up the gas tank compartment in case of a leak. He said access panels are ok, but he preferred to use a full hatch.
9. When foaming under a deck you need to use 4# foam, not 2# in a big boat like mine. It provides more stiffness and stops the boat from twisting as much. This also helps keep cracks from forming in your glass.
10. Lots of bulkheads to help with torsional twist also.
11. Run a large PVC pipe from the ski locker to the bilge for cable runs if needed. I have not done this, but am considering it.
12. If you can do without a ski locker, do not put the hole in your deck. The water runs around the opening and under the bottom of the deck and will find holes. However, if you really make sure it is sealed, get in there after the deck is on, and glass the joint, you will be ok.
13. Last but not least. Pop for covered storage. All boat covers leak.:eek:

He has really been helpful in what I have been doing and I am sooo grateful. I still want to put in limber holes though. It is just nagging at me.

Ok... Now for what I got done yesterday. This stringers and bulkheads are totally glassed in, and now I need to cap them off.
 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Well the hard part of glassing is done I think. I finished up the engine box today, and it feels awesome. I still have to cap the stringers, and I am not looking forward to that. I think I am going to buy a small router with a round off bit and make it easy on myself. Then I am going to coat the cleats in resin mixed at a slow kick and then screw them to the stringers to hold the deck down. I hope to get some time this week to get that done. I need to get the deck in soon.

Here are some pictures.

A view of some glass work
DSC00722.jpg


This is how far I took it up the stringers. I will cap these

DSC00726.jpg


Motor box and fuel line relief.

DSC00774.jpg


DSC00775.jpg


Looking back at the stern. That engine box caused me loss of sleep. It sure turned out nice. No those are not air bubbles, it is the grain of the wood.

DSC00779.jpg


Bow repair. 2 layers of 1.5 and two layers of 24 roving.

DSC00778.jpg
 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration


 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Well today is the day I get rid of the deck lip. It was alot of hard work, but it is done. I also started to try and remove the glue from the hull where the carpet was glued down. It is a nightmare.

PART 1


PART 2

 
Last edited:

Friscoboater

Captain
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
3,095
Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

Re: Here I go again!! 1995 Sea Ray 220 Signature Deck and Stringer Restoration

I FINALLY got the glue off with MEK, and got the SKI locker floor and gas tank floor cut and glassed in. I will be cutting the deck real soon.

MMMMM grinding

DSC00791.jpg


DSC00793.jpg


Lots of Carpet Glue, and nothing seemed to work

DSC00792.jpg


This worked perfectly

DSC00794.jpg



All clean

DSC00795.jpg
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top