1995 Evinrude 150 EXEOM Testing the low oil alarm in remote reservoir.

[w2much]

I am having issues with my VRO pump. Running the engine on premix til I figure it out . Before replacing anything I want to first insure that my alarm system is in working order. Temp switch sounds the alarm as it should. I need to test the no oil, the vacuum switch and the tachometer circuit. Seems to me that by turning the reservoir upside down the low oil alarm should sound. Is this correct? Or can I push the float down with a stick or something ? Testing today , will post as I go along.

 

[w2much]

So the hot cicuit works , tested as per manual.The tone sounded and the hot light on the tach lit up. I pumped the oil out of the reservoir. The alarm sounded as it got to about a quarter or so. and the low light lit on the system check tach.I am going out now to test the short pulse every 40 seconds.

 

[w2much]

I do not have a short pulse every every 40 seconds. I do get a warning tone pretty much the same as the hot tone about 30 seconds then it stops. The low oil light does light on the tach. Unhooking the oil supply line while running on 50: 1 . , I get not warning horn sounding, nor does the no oil light on the tach light up. I have removed to inspect the pulse limiter, it appears as new, I can blow into both sides and suck air from both sides.
I do not know if this is relevant but this is the original 1995 engine on on a 1996 boat with a harness adapter.

 

[jakedaawg]

With system check guage, low oil light comes on and horn sounds for a bit.

for no oil, it takes way longer than you might think at idle to empty vro and have light come on and horn sound.

 

[Rustywrench]

Several things to address here. There were two adaptor kits to make a '95 engine (no System Check) adapt to a '96 boat System Check gauge system. One just had the red plug adapter which allowed the engine to work with the system. Since each sensor on the engine wasn't hooked up separately it was impossible for the SC gauge to wRn you effectively.
Doesnt sound like that is what you have exactly. On a SC system the motor has to be running for the horn to be tested/sound. The light will come on in a static test, but the horn won't blow unless the engine is running. That might explain some of the confusion? You are doing the right thing mixing oil in the fuel until you get it figured out.

 

[w2much]

Hope to run more test today. Going to purchase a vaccum pump now. Hope to get back to it when I get back barring any honey do"s. I am able to run the motor in a sufficient size test tank and my testing has been with the engine on when required as per manual. Anxious to run for a lot longer time to hear my no oil horn. Vacuum pump for the fuel delivery. Thanks Jakedaawg and Rusty wrench, much appreciated will post as I go. BTW this VRO pump is about 5 years old. Last one died, did not sound alarms , thus a new powerhead. It aint happening again .

 

[Rustywrench]

Depending on how much conversion was done you might have a '95 oil tank with the '96 System Check system. That will change the interval at which the horn goes off for low oil. (I believe it was every 20 seconds originally?) One way or the other it wasn't compatible. Can't remember which way. Someone else might? Someone said it can take awhile for "No oil" warning to come on. That is true. You can accelerate that by running up at speed since you have oil in the fuel.
It would be extremely rare to lose an engine due to VRO unless oil tank is contaminated with water or fuel. If it does pump oil, it does pump fuel. Motor runs out of gas, unless someone becomes the fuel pump by pumping the primer bulb. Putting oil in the fuel makes this acceptable. Many people have been told their engines were blown by VRO even when the engine is full of oil on tear down. Can't blow one cylinder at all!

 

[jakedaawg]

I am having issues with my VRO pump.

I think its awesome that you are testing your systems. A well maintained modern 4 wire vro is an incredibly reliable system. Periodic testing is important.

You are on the right track. To help us help you, please explain what issues you appear to have. Please dont take offense. Helping over the interwebs here can be tricky. Telling every bit of info you have, even if it seems trivial can help some of the more experienced folks give the best answers.

What issue/s are you attempting to diagnose?

 

[w2much]

OK , here we go. Been out running the the engine and deciphering the warning horn on my boat vs the warning horn description in the OMC Evinrude manual.
The reason I am doing so is a bit of paranoia from past experience whether it was a VRO failure or not. At the end of last season the motor did not seem to be using as much oil from the reservoir as it had been. I let the engine sit for several months while I replumbed my bilge thru hulls, ran new wires and that fun stuff. . So now was time to start the engine . So running in the test barrel there did not seem to be much smoke and I did not distinctly smell the 2 stroke oil burning. I now think that I may ,I repeat may , have over reacted. I decided to run the VRO test but first needed to know that my alarms functioned as they should , or at lease functioned.
I explained that I have a harness adapter and that my alarms do not mimick the description in the manual. I was not even certain that each component, Hot, Low Oil, No oil and check engine sent a signal to the warning horn. After testing and retesting this is what I come up with. Each sensor I guess to call them does function. The issue that I will live with is this.
Remember I have the system check tachometer with a 1995 engine and adapter.
Hot = one long tone - system check Hot light comes on
Vaccum sensor switch = Hot light comes on tachometer and the tone is the same as Hot
Low Oil = Low oil light comes on tach . The tone is again the same as Hot
No Oil = Hot light comes on - The same tone as the others. This being a 30 second continuous .
So the fact is that I do have alarms, but they are all the same and really can not tell if there is a no oil , vacuum, or hot issue occurring.. I guess next time an alarm goes off I just stop til I figure it out. Pump the fuel bulb, pump the oil bulb and break out the infrared thermometer.
And yes sir the No Oil light and alarm take a surprising amount of time to go on. That is part of what threw me.You will certainly think the alarm does not work if running at an idle and waiting for it.
I will be running with premix 50:1 plus my resevoir and VRO until I am sure that the VRO is working.
Jake and Rusty your replies were right on. Thank you.
Any questions please ask, glad to answer.

 

[jakedaawg]

Yes, the way you are set up you will get a warning tone for an alarm. The appropriate light will tell you which alarm.

system check guages go bad. I replace them often, several every year over a couple hundred cusromers. If you get the horn and it seems to pulse with rpm thats a sign of a bad guage or horn usually.

regular testing is priority.

a mark on your oil tank with a Sharpe will allow you to verify oil use and self priming. Do not use this to try to figure ratio. It does not work that way. Now that you have tested, continue with pre-mix in till oil.level drops an inch or so. Double oil does not affect anything ..

 

[w2much]

Yup. I will be smokin soon. Thanks

 

[w2much]

I also pressure tested the oil delivery line and cleaned the remote oil reservoir. I added a few clamps to the bulb and line. The bulb is quite hard to pump but it does function. I realize oil is heavier than fuel so perhaps that is why . It is not old and cracked but I would like to replace it. Also one of the 4 torx screws which hold the pickup assembly in place is not tightening because the threaded imbedded nut is rotted out.There was no gasket on the pickup assembly to the tank either. So far I have not found the tank, line, assembly in the schematics. Any help to point me in the right direction would be appreciated.

 

[w2much]

I found the parts page for the parts I want. Is the oil delivery hose the same as a fuel line.

 

[dingbat]

I also pressure tested the oil delivery line and cleaned the remote oil reservoir. I added a few clamps to the bulb and line. The bulb is quite hard to pump but it does function. I realize oil is heavier than fuel so perhaps that is why . It is not old and cracked but I would like to replace it. Also one of the 4 torx screws which hold the pickup assembly in place is not tightening because the threaded imbedded nut is rotted out.There was no gasket on the pickup assembly to the tank either. So far I have not found the tank, line, assembly in the schematics. Any help to point me in the right direction would be appreciated.

keep an eye out on eBay for new old stock tank assemblies. Cheaper than peice milling an old tank back to life.

No, the oil line is not the same as fuel line. OEM oil line has a stripe on it

The bulb is hard to squeeze becouse of it’s dead ended flow. Remove the oil line from the fuel pump and it squeeze just as easy as the fuel primer bulb.

Purge the new oil line by pumping the oil primer bulb until you get a good flow of oil before connecting the line back to the pump

 

[w2much]

What is the difference in the oil reservoirs between 1995 and the newer 1996 system check reservoirs. Mine has the system check tag still affixed. I imagine there is a difference in the tank pickup sensor but am curious as to what that difference is.

 

[Rustywrench]

I agree with jakedaawg that checking out your system is GREAT! Taking time to understand its function is a positive. The '96 & newer System Check sending units have a different connector (Duetch? Gray) type connector vs older style amphenol (round black rubber). That accounts for the tag & different part number. You will notice the wire is actually different also. (Well if you had one to compare it too? DUH?) As far as how the sender itself is different I don't remember? I know the low oil horn is turned on at 40 seconds intervals instead of 20 seconds. I believe that happens in the SC gauge tho? I also see the gauges go bad. The self test horn can be pesky too. Usually turning the key on/off in rapid succession will confuse the horn self test feature. If the horn hangs on (continuous blowing) then the horn is bad. At almost $100 at least keep an eye on it. It was easy for me to replace them, I didn't have to pay for them!
The check engine lite is only operated by the vaccum switch on carbureted V-6 models. If that light shows up & you unplug that sensor the gauge is bad.

 

[w2much]

I agree with jakedaawg that checking out your system is GREAT! Taking time to understand its function is a positive. The '96 & newer System Check sending units have a different connector (Duetch? Gray) type connector vs older style amphenol (round black rubber). That accounts for the tag & different part number. You will notice the wire is actually different also. (Well if you had one to compare it too? DUH?) As far as how the sender itself is different I don't remember? I know the low oil horn is turned on at 40 seconds intervals instead of 20 seconds. I believe that happens in the SC gauge tho? I also see the gauges go bad. The self test horn can be pesky too. Usually turning the key on/off in rapid succession will confuse the horn self test feature. If the horn hangs on (continuous blowing) then the horn is bad. At almost $100 at least keep an eye on it. It was easy for me to replace them, I didn't have to pay for them!
The check engine lite is only operated by the vaccum switch on carbureted V-6 models. If that light shows up & you unplug that sensor the gauge is bad.

Do you mean that while the light is on and you then unplug it you ruin the gauge Sorry might as well not assume to understand what you are saying here.

 

[Rustywrench]

Sorry, that might have not been very clear on my part. The check engine light on the gauge is only for the vaccum switch on your engine (carbureted). This same system is used on other (DFI) models & check engine lite can mean many things!
Your vaccum switch is behind the air box on the front of the engine. If you unplug the switch the light would go out. No harm done. If the light comes on with that sensor unplugged you have a bad gauge. That is all I meant.

 

[w2much]

Got it. Thank you for your answer.