1994 johnson 9.9 issues

[harry mo]

hello folks I am in need of some assistance if at all possible,i bought a boat with this motor and was doing a compression check yesterday.it has a push button type electric start and when I pushed it to build up psi I let off when the gauge stopped climbing I then threaded it to the other cylinder and when I pushed the button nothing happened.i am getting current from the battery to the rectifier of 12.80 volts and if I use a jumper from the battery to the starter it pops right off also does with pull rope.i have done research and this engine might have came with a solenoid but im not entirely sure but I know for sure one isn't on it and don't know if it fried something since it does not.i looked at a schematic for my model and it mentions a fuse but I don't see one, the hot and ground from the battery is going to the rectifier and a red wire that looks to be coming from the push button switch is connected with the hot on the rectifier and another red that looks to be coming from the push button is going to the starter.i will add a couple pictures tomorrow and thanks for any help in advance

 

[harry mo]

Does anybody have any idea,should I maybe post this somewhere else on the website

 

[jbuote]

Don't know for sure, but if you can't find the fuse, look for an inline fuse holder..
​This pic isn't exactly it, but it would be something similar to it anyway...


Hope it helps even if just a little....

 

[harry mo]

Thanks for the help but I am not seeing one anywhere,I have some pictures to upload but running into problems....only thing remotely close to that is behind a cover next to the rectifier are 3 yellow wires that appear to have heat shrink tubing and nothing that can be pulled apart

 

[jbuote]

With push button start, I'm presuming this is a tiller model and doesn't have a remote?
​These are not the best diagrams(don't rely solely on them.. lol).
I'd suggest getting hold of a factory manual specific for your engine to have proper wire colors etc, but in the meantime,

http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manu...rude.html#/280
​Bottom right diagram for tiller.. I don't see a fuse in it, but wiring is slightly different than remote..
If jumping from battery to starter works, then sounds like the ground side is ok, so look for breaks in the positive wire, or the starter push button itself could be bad I guess..
​(Edit: Could test switch by checking continuity with multi-meter from positive battery cable to positive wire on starter.
​No continuity when switch is not pressed, but should have continuity when switch is pressed.
​Battery disconnected of course.. )

If remote, then:
http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manu...rude.html#/282
Top left diagram.. fuse is on right side under starter in diagram..

​Either of these of any "in general" help to you?
​Had you already seen these? lol

​Wish I had more to offer, but I'm still quite new myself and don't want to steer you in any incorrect direction...

For what it's worth....

 

[harry mo]

Why thank you sir,yes it is tiller and is set up like the bottom right so no solenoid thank goodness so now I can rule out an altering being done.i am thinking along the same line as you because when I was threading the tester in the lower cylinder I had to move some wires and thought a wire was bad so I was moving them around as I hit the starter button but had no luck with that,I also figured a bad starter button but can't find any replacement part and it appears that it is a button and wiring harness all in one I can't tell for sure because it goes into the tiller handle.....to check continuity for the switch do I set my tester for 12 volts and put the red postive probe on the postive feed from the battery that goes to the rectifier?not sure what to use at the starter since I thought the black probe is ground..I'm sure I'm picturing it wrong

 

[jbuote]

Set on OHMS scale for resistance..

​With battery disconnected, put ​either probe on positive battery cable, then other lead on positive cable at the starter..
​NO continuity would be Extremely high resistance, or "O.L" , (Expected when button is NOT pressed)
Continuity would be 0 ohms (thereabouts.. and expected when button IS pressed).

​Most modern meters have an audible tone when there is continuity, so if you hear it beeping when you press the button, then I'd guess the switch is ok..
​If not..... Well... lol

Can check continuity in various places too..
​From battery lug on cable to where it hooks up at the rectifier.. (No switch in between meter probes, so should have continuity without pressing switch. Only need to press switch when switch is in between the 2 points you're testing.. Make sense? lol)

​From rectifier to switch (if accessible) switch to starter etc...
​Whole thing would be from the lug that bolts to the battery, to the lug that bolts on the starter..

​If you measure one end of a wire to the other and there is HIGH resistance, it could be corrosion too where it bolts on or something.
​Might take some time to be sure all connections are nice and shiny clean (Sanding if necessary etc...) since you're at it anyway...

​Again, Still pretty new and I really don't want to steer you in any wrong direction, but that's the basics of it anyway.. LOL

Hope it helps!!!

 

[flyingscott]

If you do not have a solenoid then your starter system is set up for direct voltage. There are only 2 switches in that set-up, the push button and the neutral safety switch. Make sure the neutral safety switch under the shifter cam is being depressed and working. Or make sure the motor is in neutral.

 

[oldboat1]

Sure it's a '94? (Might post a model number.)

 

[harry mo]

Thanks jbuote I will try that when I get home today

Flying scott thanks for that advice,I am aware of the neutral safety switch and moved the lever trying to start it without any luck I don't know if that would have made a difference



Old boat yes it is a 1994 I verified that through the e in rude websiye

 

[harry mo]

Also flying scott when it stopped working I wasn't touching the shifter so that made we think it wasn't that

 

[oldboat1]

Pre-'93 9.9 did not use a solenoid. The neutral safety switch was tucked under the shift lever, down in the pan -- just in front of the rectifier. The switch could be tested with the engine off. (Hook up the probes from a continuity tester on each of the terminals, and operate the plunger/button.) The switch was on the positive side of the starter circuit (red wire) -- starter wire connection ran from the switch, in the pan under the rear of the powerhead.

It's possible a PO modified your motor, I suppose. It would have come with a solenoid -- have to believe there is/was a neutral safety switch somewhere as well. '94 shift handle is moved to the front, but links to what is probably the older style lever/cam (where the switch was located on earlier models). If it failed, the starter circuit could be interrupted -- no starter operation regardless of lever position.

 

[flyingscott]

The neutral safety switch on that motor NEEDS to be touching the shift cam in neutral. In neutral the shift switch should be depressed. Take a pic of your motor and the switch. They only list a solenoid for the remote model 9.9/15 hp motors.

 

[harry mo]

It is not allowing me to upload pictures it says file size to large .....I have the bottom covers off now and can see more and get to the wires

 

[harry mo]

So I have cleaned up the wires no change,I'm also not seeing a neutral safety switch and I don't see one on the schematic that's jbuote pointed out to me....I wish I could get these pictures to go through

 

[harry mo]

Could rectifier or coil act up like this or would they just fail to fire but still turn over....I checked continuity at the starter and at the location of the hot wire and starter button wire are fastened and I didn't get a beep

 

[jbuote]

I believe it should still run the starter even those were bad....
So one probe on starter, and other probe on other side of switch and no beep.. does it beep if you push the starter button?

 

[harry mo]

No it doesn't that is what I meant to say....if I touch the probes together it beeps I don't know what that means

 

[flyingscott]

If you are probing both sides of the switch and it doesn't beep when you push it that is a bad switch. Did you disconnect the battery before you did that?

 

[jbuote]

^^^ Yup...

Just to clarify a bit on "what that means"...
In the most basic terms, when it beeps that means there is a connection between the two points you're testing, and power will flow between those points.
NO beep means there isn't a connection between the two points, so power can't flow through there..

Lack of connection could be broken wire, corrosion, bad switch, blown fuse etc....

There's much more to it, but that's the bare minimum basics of it.

In your case, like flyingscott said, sounds like pushing the start button isn't closing the circuit like it should. Bad switch..