1994 Johnson 115hp, V4…Tilt Trim question?

Softball60

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The last time I posted a thread was back a month or two.

I purchased a 1990 sport craft w/ a 1994 Johnson that I was going to reduce for my grandson……So much for background!!

I have completed the compression check and looks reasonable considering the engine has sat for over a year.…all four (4) cyl s. We’re between 95 and 105. Hoping with some time rings will reset a little and compression may go up?

Before I explain my question I need to explain that I left the manual release for the tilt trim open for quite a whiIe after I failed to manually raise the motor.….I am 77 yrs. And my strength was not up to the task.

Now that the electrical is done I tried to raise the tilt/trim…..MOTOR RUNS BUT NOTHING MOVES!!!!!!!!!!!!
IS IT BECAUSE I HAVE AIR IN THE HYDRAULIC TILT/TRIM?

THANKS

SOFTBALL60
 

racerone

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Closed the manual release valve ???--Topped up the fluid ?-----Those compression values are not encouraging at all.-----I would be pulling a bypass cover ( 6 bolts ) on the 95 psi cylinder to look at piston and rings !!
 
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stresspoint

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its not advisable to leave the manual release open , although a lot of us seasoned boaters have at some time and operated the trim .
in theory and from practice ( :) the odd time or 2 i have left the screw open and ran the trim) , air should not get into the system from there , so i doubt that is your issue.

spry some WD40 and try backing the screw in and out a few times to be sure its seated 100%.

all that said , if you have somehow got air in the system bleeding a Johnno is easy , just follow the manual directions.

also check the fluid level if you have not already done so.

if you don't have a manual i am sure someone will be kind enough to post a screen shot of the directions. you may need a engine serial number to confirm what trim unit you have.

recheck the compression once its ran a bit under load , numbers might even out , lower readings may just be the gauge .
 
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racerone

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On a new purchase like that the 95 PSI is a concern.-----Do not spend any time worrying about trim / tilt until you check / verify condition of pistons / rings.
 

Softball60

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From everything I have read the 95-105 psi compression is right where it should for a 1994 Johnson, 115hp V4, 2 stroke. If it were a 4 stroke it should be in 130-140 range.

Softball60
 

saltchuckmatt

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From everything I have read the 95-105 psi compression is right where it should for a 1994 Johnson, 115hp V4, 2 stroke. If it were a 4 stroke it should be in 130-140 range.

Softball60
No, that's on the very low end.

You could test with a different tester or test it after it's ran awhile. It might come up.
 

racerone

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Folks will argue all day long.------At 95 PSI you have problems or a bad gauge.-----Good luck with it.------I can not provide any more help on this one.
 

Chris1956

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If the PTT systems get air in them, the motors will run and the motor not tilt. So if you have the manual release closed, get someone to help you lift the motor, all the way up, while running the PTT motor in the UP direction. Locate the manual tilt lock (starboard side usually), and lock her up. Now remove the PTT reservoir cap with the boat level and fill her up with a Dextron ATF fluid. Let her sit a few minutes. Don't let the help leave just yet, as you will need to cycle her down (real easy) and then up to refill the reservoir, a few times. Each time the motor will trim up more on it's own.

I had to do this last winter, as the cap on the reservoir started to leak. That was all it took to leak out a lot of the PTT fluid.
 

Softball60

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I would like to thank the folks that responded to my situation.
Hopefully this will solve the issue.

Thanks Again

Softball60/Paul
 

Softball60

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Well it seems that no mater how much fluid I add and lifting and lowering…….the motor just falls back down even with the manual release completely closed. It looks as though the tilt (center ram) has a leaking seal.

so my question is …..no mater how much I try to bleed the system, the tilt will not work even though the motor runs because the center looks to be leaking…..is this true?

Remember this is my first venture with boats…….I AM A NOVICE!! I

Softball60/Paul
 

Chris1956

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If the motor "leaks" down gradually, the tilt cylinder seal could be bad. If she falls down fast, there is something else wrong. Perhaps a bad manual release valve?
 

Softball60

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R

That what I am thinking. I would have thought there would have been fluid spraying all over the place.

Softball60
 

Chris1956

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If only the tilt piston seal leaks, there would not be an external leak. They PTT uits also have check valves. These could leak, but are pretty reliable.

Does she leak down fast or slow?
 

racerone

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Remove clip.-----Then remove manual release valve.----Check seals on manual release valve.-----Easy step to take.
 

Softball60

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Remove clip.-----Then remove manual release valve.----Check seals on manual release valve.-----Easy step to take.
Racer Ron thanks for getting back into this thread. You sounded upset with me on your last post.
Managed to get the manual release valve out…….the O ring located next to the hole was missing…..not inside the cylinder….also the O ring at the top cover is all gouged out. My guess this has a lot to do with my issue. While I have the motor way up I managed to get the tilt cylinder pin out. Since I have access to all three cylinders I purchased the seal kit and will rebuild the cylinders.

As soon as parts arrive I will finish rebuild.

Thanks for the support

Softball60/Paul
 

havoc_squad

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Racer Ron thanks for getting back into this thread. You sounded upset with me on your last post.
Managed to get the manual release valve out…….the O ring located next to the hole was missing…..not inside the cylinder….also the O ring at the top cover is all gouged out. My guess this has a lot to do with my issue. While I have the motor way up I managed to get the tilt cylinder pin out. Since I have access to all three cylinders I purchased the seal kit and will rebuild the cylinders.

As soon as parts arrive I will finish rebuild.

Thanks for the support

Softball60/Paul

When people do not take the experienced advice and go chasing off in different direction, people are less inclined to continue answering questions.

Bad compression numbers is like someone being told you have serious heart health issues that need fixing right now, whereas trim system issue is like getting the common cold.

Focus first on determining the status of the major engine health issue of the bad compression numbers.

You may scoff at the cost of what it will take to properly rebuild the powerhead and decide to change directions to a different outboard.

No need to waste money on trim system parts or anything else if you are not going to fix the powerhead first.
 

Softball60

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Well it seems that no mater how much fluid I add and lifting and lowering…….the motor just falls back down even with the manual release completely closed. It looks as though the tilt (center ram) has a leaking seal.

so my question is …..no mater how much I try to bleed the system, the tilt will not work even though the motor runs because the center looks to be leaking…..is this true?

Remember this is my first venture with boats…….I AM A NOVICE!! I

Softball60/Paul
Got the motor running after cleaning up the engine compartment and replacing the ignition switch and the solenoid. Got the motor to fire up!
now it looks like I have an issue with the cooling system…..NO WATER OUT OF THE TELL TALE. Hose is not blocked.

I am going to replace the impeller and the thermostat. I am thinking because the motor sat for so long with the salt water, it’s probably not in working order.

Two (2) questions

1. When I remove the lower unit to get at the impeller what are the main steps. I read something about putting it in reverse gear and removing shift linkage. Is there a step by step procedure I can follow. I am mainly concerned about removing the lower unit. Changing the impeller system should be straight forward. I am doing this by myself.

If you can give me the first critical moves it would be appreciated

2. I am also changing the thermostat….it’s probably all gunked up. Not much room , so I am going to cut out a portion of the lower housing to get better access. Saw this in a number of videos. WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Tanks

Softball60/Paul
 

oldboat1

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Be nice if you could find a barrel wide and deep enough to idle test it, given that it runs -- might flush out some salt build up. A little bit of back pressure could help, as it does not sound like it's ready for the lake. Check temp. at the top of the heads, however you test. An infrared tester is fairly inexpensive -- look for an idle temp around 140F or less.

Work a long piece of weed whacker line into the tell tale outlet, and try to clear blockages there, but more important to check head temps.

You likely have some expensive repairs ahead, and may want to find a decent fresh water motor to replace the current motor.
 
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