1994 Force 120hp Issues

[Sam123]

I have a 17' Pro-Line center console with a 1994 Force 120 hp that hadn't been run in almost 3 years. Prior to using it, I had the water pump and spark plugs replaced as well as the batteries and gas/oil changed. After the first time taking out the boat the high temperature alarm went off (high pitched beeping under console) and I spun a prop (was on plane and felt like the motor kicked out of gear; idled back to dock). I took it to a mechanic and asked him to find out what was going on...and he said the water pump housing was cracked and I spun the prop. And, I paid to have them both replaced. Then, I took the boat out again and it wouldn't go in reverse without stalling, the starter wouldn't engage the motor, and the high temperature alarm went off trying to get it in reverse. So, I took it to yet another mechanic (since I didn't have confidence in the first one) and he did a compression test, etc and came back to me after inspecting the engine and said I need to have the power head? rebuilt for around $3700 because the #3 cylinder had run lean and is now running hot and was starting to "octanate" (yes, I had the proper oil:fuel mixture ratio). Obviously, I don't want to get ripped off since the boat isn't worth much more than that and was wondering if this diagnosis seems correct? Or, do I need to get another opinion? Thanks for any help y'all might have.

 

[Sam123]

Re: 1994 Force 120hp Issues

Update:
I had a compression test done again to confirm the mechanic's diagnosis. Do these numbers confirm I need to replace the powerhead?

1 - 165
2 - 170
3 - 150
4 - 170

Thanks for any input.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1994 Force 120hp Issues

if i saw those numbers on an engine that had sat up for three years I would be thinking it had a good powerhead. Put some seafoam in there to loosen up three year old crud and see if the 150 comes on up to 160+.

if you plan on having marinas maintain your engine then either get a different brand or find someone who actively specializes in Force. Force is the best engine that you can own if you DIY but it is a terrible engine to own if you want marina maintenance. You will get the very lowest quality work that shop has to offer at the same or greater price than other brands.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 1994 Force 120hp Issues

Seafoam or Power Tune(merc product) and follow the directions.
Then like Ritt says get someone who is certified to work on the Force.
A lot of problems can be taken care of if the you get an owners manual and follow the regular maint.
What area are you in you need to fill out the profile.Maybe your near someone who works on them.Jerry

 

[Sam123]

Re: 1994 Force 120hp Issues

Thanks for the information. I will try your recommendations. Also, I am in the St Augustine, FL area in case you know of someone who specializes in Force engines.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1994 Force 120hp Issues

Thanks for the information. I will try your recommendations. Also, I am in the St Augustine, FL area in case you know of someone who specializes in Force engines.

if you intend to keep the boat then you should learn how to DIY. Your DIY should cost you less than $100 per year per engine for top notch maintenance including stuff like new batterries.

First - if you don't have a battery switch then get one and install it. For some reason salt water batteries like to go dead. Put in a cut-off switch and turn it off whenever you park your boat. You'll never have a dead battery surprise again. You may also want to consider putting the battery(s) under the center console. A lot of center consoles have hard to reach wasted space that is a great place (very dry with minimal bouncing around) for batteries.

Second - keep an eye on your reed valves. 1994 was one of those years with composites. If they crack and you let it slide then engine might run hot and without enough oil.

Third - change impellers every spring. Every time you hit a sandbar it really chews up the impellers.

Fourth - religously maintain sacrificial anodes. If they go bad there is no undoing of galvanic corrosion.

Fifth - once per season check SS bolts and fittings for corrosion. SS attacks aluminum when the two touch each other in salt water. The SS never gets scratched but the aluminum turns to a hard, white residue that looks like limestone deposits. Any bolt or shaft that shows signs of this residue should be cleaned, sprayed, loosened, and re-torqued. Thermostat cover, head bolt, trim shaft, kingpins, gearcase filler plugs, lower unit to motor leg bolts ... just a few that come to mind.

Sixth - change fuel pump diaphram every 3-4 years. It's a dirt cheap fix and easy to do. So instead of waiting for it to go bad just go ahead and fix it.

Seventh - well, actually, i think that's about it. everything else is common sense routine stuff that should be in first few pages of your manual.

- if you intend to have marina maintenance then I think you should start looking for a good used JohnnyRude or Merc. Most marinas don't really know how to work on Force and don't want to learn so you end up getting bad work for bad price.