Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking of doing this as far as the inline fuel filter goes. Its a 9.9hp. I am thinking spark as well because sometimes it shuts down and I can't restart it but other times it restarts then dies again after couple seconds. I have taken the carb apart several times and checked the needle valve and float and throughly cleaned it only to get the same issue.
I just bought some starting fluid and sprayed directly to rule out the fuel system and it didn't make a change. I was also pulling the spark plugs to check for spark and I do see spark. The problem is that when I pulled the plugs out and was turning over the engine to test the spark I felt the engine get a little tougher to pull. I then put the plug back in and started the engine and it ran for about 15 seconds then shut off. I sprayed the starter fluid in again and it would not run. I am puzzled at this. I am not sure if I am getting intermittent spark or not. Not sure what else would cause this to happen. Now the engine just won't start. I pull and it spins and spins but nothing happens. I know the engine is getting fuel and I see spark when pulling the plug out and watching the end of the plug. Any other ideas?
Could the timing be an issue?
This is definitely a possibility. I went and bought some Stabil Fogging Oil and sprayed some into the cylinders then into the air opening in the Carb and started the engine while constantly feeding it the fogging oil. The engine ran while being supplied. I pulled the fuel hose feeding the Carb from the fuel pump and seen fuel being pumped from the fuel pump. It was not a lot of fuel though. So I think I have narrowed the issue down to the Carb or the fuel tank and possibly lines.
That main jet nozzle is fixed doesnt come out. If fuel is the issue did the plugs look really wet? Could be flooded or not getting enough.
Thanks for letting me know this! I was not able to check the reeds as I would have to remove the lower unit and more things to pull the engine off as I cant get to the bottom two bolts to take the Reed Valve cover off. Under the flywheel is just a magnet that spins and passes by the 2 coils mounted opposite of each other. When passing they create the spark that goes to the plugs. The plugs were wet indicating flooding. I have since been able to start the engine using fogging oil sprayed into the cylinders then into the air inlet on the carb. I noticed in the fuel line that the connector that connects the fuel line to the engine I can hear hissing indicating an air leak at that spot and for this reason I am going to bypass this and attempt to try again. As for the needle valve I am not sure what adjusting can be done?
Do you have a copy of the service manual? PDF format?
I will get some pictures and post them. I am working now though so will be later in the evening.
Sorry for not getting pictures. I found the issue with this engine. Its a hard issue to pin point but I did. The issue is with the Carb Needle Seat not sealing all the way and allowing fuel to bypass and eventually flood the engine. I have tested the carb by connecting the fuel lines to the carb while its off the motor and plugging the needle seat with my finger. This stopped the flow of fuel to the bowl. Once I cleaned the needle seat the needle valve was able to close properly. I had to polish it with a q-tip attached to my drill then added metal polish to the end of q-tip. This allowed the smooth operation of the needle valve to seat properly in the seat. Thanks for all the assistance on this.
So after all this and winter I just pulled it back out and same problem. I think I need a new carb. Does anyone know of a replacement carb for this motor?
