rich_benson
Seaman
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2007
- Messages
- 58
I’ve worked on this motor before, I have a similar 1993 ocean runner 150 hp and have no problem with the electrical system as it uses OIS.
This is when it stopped working.
I had to change the water pump as the boat has been sitting for years.
The boat ran great with the new water pump. I only had reverse working, so I had to pull the lower unit again and removed the shift linkage.
Upon reinserting to shift linkage/shift rod – the boat would no longer start.
In the past few weeks, I’ve just thrown parts at it. The stater had melted coils, and the flywheel was seized (flywheel puller didn’t work) as it had not been off in 30 years. I finally got it off with a sledgehammer, and only chipped small area of one of the magnets inside the flywheel, which I re-glued in with export.
The fly wheel is not perfectly level, but it’s not terrible either. I believe the magnets have the ability to do their job.
Since I replaced the stater, I also replaced the timer base. Still no spark on all 6 cylinders. After that, I replaced the power pack and the rectifier, along with a spark plug wires. Since I pulled the flywheel off, I was concerned about engine firing cylinders properly but since there is a key on the shaft, I don’t think there’s a way to mess it up. It was synced before, so it should be now unless someone can say different.
I suspect it may be just a simple Killswitch after that, ohms good from the console back to the motor. I have connectivity after some re-wiring.
I cut all of the kill switch wires in an effort to troubleshoot. The Killswitch wire at the center console is pushing 120-130 V when checked with multimeter.
Other than the coils, I have replaced all of the electrical components and traced all of the wires from the harness.
Help!
This is when it stopped working.
I had to change the water pump as the boat has been sitting for years.
The boat ran great with the new water pump. I only had reverse working, so I had to pull the lower unit again and removed the shift linkage.
Upon reinserting to shift linkage/shift rod – the boat would no longer start.
In the past few weeks, I’ve just thrown parts at it. The stater had melted coils, and the flywheel was seized (flywheel puller didn’t work) as it had not been off in 30 years. I finally got it off with a sledgehammer, and only chipped small area of one of the magnets inside the flywheel, which I re-glued in with export.
The fly wheel is not perfectly level, but it’s not terrible either. I believe the magnets have the ability to do their job.
Since I replaced the stater, I also replaced the timer base. Still no spark on all 6 cylinders. After that, I replaced the power pack and the rectifier, along with a spark plug wires. Since I pulled the flywheel off, I was concerned about engine firing cylinders properly but since there is a key on the shaft, I don’t think there’s a way to mess it up. It was synced before, so it should be now unless someone can say different.
I suspect it may be just a simple Killswitch after that, ohms good from the console back to the motor. I have connectivity after some re-wiring.
I cut all of the kill switch wires in an effort to troubleshoot. The Killswitch wire at the center console is pushing 120-130 V when checked with multimeter.
Other than the coils, I have replaced all of the electrical components and traced all of the wires from the harness.
Help!
.. if so then why did you remove the flywheel to change the starter ? Btw that flywheel has now 50% chances to be dead , these magnets needs to be mint condition and perfect distance and angle from the pickup to work right (you can always leave it there and diagnose other possible issues before buying a new one maybe you’re lucky and it’s still fine) , also when you’ve reinstalled the lower unit : was the boat control @ foward position like it should have been? If so , was the lower unit shift rod @ the foward position perfectly set at the friction point before the neutral position ? If somehow you force the lower unit in and the shift rod gets out of the perfect position (+1 / -1 spline) it could put tension on the shift cable bracket (especially if your cable has a bit of wear/loose)… the result could lead to a perfectly or near perfect shift engagement but could mess with the shift reset switch / neutral switch or both , my brain doesn’t remember all outboards models diagrams perfectly there’s to many of em 
