1993 Evinrude 60hp

[Flyhog85]

What did you ever find out ?????

Just got it reassembled after replacing the lower gear seals. My oil leak was at the shift rod oring.

As for the surging/bogging issue. After cleaning/rebuilding the carbs and reinstalling everything the boat runs steady at 26 mph and 5k unless I bump the choke and then it’ll jump up to wide open throttle and I can tap in a rythm and it’ll stay right at what it’s suppose to be.

I removed the pulse limiter and replaced a straight fitting and im trying to figure out if that accounts for the change in performance.

Before tapping the choke didn’t improve the bogging low power issue now if I bump the choke and tap it every couple of seconds it’ll run like a top.

 

[Flyhog85]

Did you take the pulse limiter off and replace it with a straight nipple.

Yes I replaced with a straight nipple. I noticed the new fuel hoses Crowley marine sent are a tad softer than the old ones I had is that an issue?

 

[Flyhog85]

What did you ever find out ?????

Idk what happened to my reply. The oil leak in the lower was my shift shaft o ring. Went ahead and did a complete reseal for good measure.

As for the bogging down issue I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and the replaced the fuel lines as well as the vacuum lines and the motor doesn’t necessarily bog down anymore but it won’t run at wot without me hitting the choke at the ignition. When I do that it’ll jump up to the proper WOT RPms and the speed I’m used to getting but I have to consistently tap the choke to get it to run right. I did a cylinder drop test and it doesn’t appear to be dropping any cylinders so that’s good and it still runs pretty rough at idle in water. On the muffs it runs really good. So I’m sure I’ve got some kind of blockage still and I’ve also got something going on with my fuel pump causing the primer solenoid to need to be bumped.

For what its worth prior to any of this work bumping the choke didn’t help at all when my motor bogged down so that’s a step in the right direction.

The other thing I noticed is I’m pretty sure Crowley marine sent me standard 5/16 fuel hose not marine grade as it feels a lot softer than the stiff OMC hoses I had on before.

 

[racerone]

When you operate the fuel primer valve , fuel is put into the engine intake.-----This fuel bypasses the metering circuits in the carburetors.----This suggest to me that you need to revisit carburetor work !

 

[Flyhog85]

When you operate the fuel primer valve , fuel is put into the engine intake.-----This fuel bypasses the metering circuits in the carburetors.----This suggest to me that you need to revisit carburetor work !

That’s what I was afraid of lol.

I’m also going to make sure that I have all of my clamps tight enough and the fuel lines right. The good thing is before the primer wouldn’t help the situation at all so there’s a start.

 

[Flyhog85]

When you operate the fuel primer valve , fuel is put into the engine intake.-----This fuel bypasses the metering circuits in the carburetors.----This suggest to me that you need to revisit carburetor work !

Broke them down again and did a test a mentor showed me years ago about putting the carb upside down and letting carb cleaner sit over the 4 small Orifice holes that the high speed jet supplies. If they drain off you’re good there and if it takes longer to drain you may have a problem. Cylinder 2 was completely blocked. All 3 carbs now flow freely. Reinstalling tonight and gonna go run the boat tomorrow.

Also if note I noticed the hose from the pulse port was loose at the fuel pump so I got better clamps and hoses and tightened it up

 

[racerone]

The high speed jet ( orifice plug ) is found in the very bottom of the float bowl.----Did you verify those to be clean ?

 

[Flyhog85]

Yes the spot I’m talking about is the four small holes in the top of the throttle behind the throttle plate. That are in the same tube that the brass pick up that drops down into the bowl behind the high speed jet needle.

 

[Flyhog85]

But those were the only spots that seem to be blocked.

 

[racerone]

??---There is no high speed jet needle in these carburetors.----The high speed jet is a brass piece with a calibrated hole.----Found in the very bottom of the float bowl.

 

[Flyhog85]

Right I’m mixing terminology here but what I’m saying is the port that that jet is in feeds a 2 piece brass tube that the larger diameter empties into the throttle “throat?” and the smaller goes through the throttle body and into another port where another orifice (part call out 22 on the attached diagram) is seated that empties into four pinholes on the top of the throttle body.

Those four holes (just big enough for a wire to fit in to clean) were clogged on my middle carb and only one of the four was blocked on the first carb the third carb seemed to be relatively free of obstruction those were the only ports that didn’t flow freely after the first cleaning.

 

[Crosbyman]

more modern carb with the same issues as the older version

 

[Flyhog85]

??---There is no high speed jet needle in these carburetors.----The high speed jet is a brass piece with a calibrated hole.----Found in the very bottom of the float bowl.

So I cleaned the carbs out again and it ran perfect for about 10 minutes then did the dropping 1k rpm’s and then it would jump back up. I got it home and noticed 2 things one it surges slightly at idle it’ll run up a couple hundred rpm’s and back down and idle smooth then back up and back down. When the rpm’s drop while running WOY it doesn’t run rough but I can let off the throttle and it stalls once at idle speed. I can kill the engine then start it back up and run it. It’s extremely intermittent.

The nature of the rpm issue and surging makes me wonder if I have a bad CDI or coil pack. My ohms test tested out perfect and I did find out from the previous owner it has a second hand cdi on it from an old pontoon boat. I wonder if it’s getting hot and causing it to drop a cylinder and when I kill the motor it’s cool enough out right now it doesn’t take long for the module to cool off enough to get back to operating again?

Cleaning the carbs the second time fixed the choke issue now hitting the choke doesn’t fix it at all. So I’m wondering if I’ve got a two part problem here

The second thing I noticed is while my plugs still look dry other than the fuel the bottom of my head gasket appears to be seeping water a very small ant. When I check the cylinder pressure it holds at 100 on all 3 cylinders and never Bleeds off. I’m going to go ahead and replace the head gasket as if it’s seeping water at a small volume now it will eventually be a bigger problem and better to fix now than later.

Edit: I was Chevy mechanic for a decade before I got out of the business and I have a close friend that works on outboards and we’re both stumped. I plan to replace the cdi with a factory OMC power pack just to go ahead and ensure it is the exactly right component and I have the peace of mind it was done right but the confusion is getting frustrating. Best thing about this run I just took is knowing my fuel pump set up is right now and the primer bulb is holding prime etc so from here idk what to do.

 

[Crosbyman]

is your fuel supply filtered ... repeat clogging may be deterioration hoses

if you suspect an overheated cdi module or coil pack try a cooling spray when the issue comes up. a common keyboard air can held upside down will cool things down quickly and if the problem stops the module is in fact overheating.

Dollar store cans are $4

 

[Flyhog85]

is your fuel supply filtered ... repeat clogging may be deterioration hoses

if you suspect an overheated cdi module or coil pack try a cooling spray when the issue comes up. a common keyboard air can held upside down will cool things down quickly and if the problem stops the module is in fact overheating.

Dollar store cans are $4

I have an in-line filter before the pump and all new hoses.

I just checked the coil packs again with my spark tester and my number one had a weaker spark and would be almost nonexistent when the rpm’s dip down on the muffs. Cylinder two is real strong and cylinder three kind of drops off a bit too. I unplug the cylinders one at a time there’s a slight dip in performance with one and three but a noticeable drop and stall when I pull cylinder 2. Leads me to believe a weak coil on one and three and one failing completely at high temps? These are the original coils on the motor and it’s a 92 not 93.

 

[flyingscott]

Do you have the Vro on that motor?

 

[racerone]

Clearly stated in post #1 that VRO is not used.---Pulse limiter ( flow fuse ) for VRO has been removed as well.-----Running with a simple pump on this motor I assume.

 

[Flyhog85]

Clearly stated in post #1 that VRO is not used.---Pulse limiter ( flow fuse ) for VRO has been removed as well.-----Running with a simple pump on this motor I assume.

Correct running straight pump with premix. Complete delete of the vro system. Had to delete the vro for a few reasons. 1.) the pump was cracked and needed a complete replacement and that was about 500 for OEM (won’t use any other) and that just wasn’t in the budget at tue time. 2.) the alarms have long since been inoperative since before I owned the boat so I can’t trust the system fully. 3.) it wouldn’t stop pumping oil even after the motor was off and the key out of the ignition.

So when I replaced the unit I replaced all fuel lines and pump and went to using the straight fitting at the pulse port. I’m 99% sure my top cylinder coil is weak and is opening up when it gets warm. In addition to some blockages still happening due to my Manifold Tee maybe having some debris in it.

 

[racerone]

If it was pumping oil with motor shut off it sounds like , and could only be the vent plugged on the oil tank.-----VRO pumps are NOT electric.----Vro pump operate with crankcase PRESSURE pulses when engine is turning.

 

[Flyhog85]

If it was pumping oil with motor shut off it sounds like , and could only be the vent plugged on the oil tank.-----VRO pumps are NOT electric.----Vro pump operate with crankcase PRESSURE pulses when engine is turning.

Gotcha we deleted it mainly because it was cracked and the cost of a new one was outrageous. $50 for the Evinrude Simple pump vs 500 just wasn’t doable for us. The gas never has a chance to go bad either because we fish a lot and at the end of the summer we empty the tank completely and use it in our chainsaw etc that requires premix lol