1992 Mercury Charging System

Jim Harpold

Cadet
Joined
Jun 26, 2010
Messages
8
I have a 1992 Black Max 2 stroke. The charging system is erratic sometimes it runs at 12v and other times it runs 14v. I checked the long and short stator wires with a meter and get .5 ohm resistance on the upper regulator and 0. ohm resistance on the lower regulator. When starting the engine sometimes the voltage shows 12v and after a short while it begins to climb to 14+v. I did notice that the stator wires at the bullet connections has gotten hot and melted the rubber covering. Any ideas on the problem
Thanks Jim
 

Dave1027

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
1,083
Re: 1992 Mercury Charging System

What's so bad about 14 volts? Mine runs at 16 volts while cruising and it causes no problems.

Maybe the rectifier went bad?
 

verado7

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
511
Re: 1992 Mercury Charging System

sounding like a bad rectifier or regulator which ever one yours has usually with a rectifier you see around 16 volts
 

Jim Harpold

Cadet
Joined
Jun 26, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 1992 Mercury Charging System

What's so bad about 14 volts? Mine runs at 16 volts while cruising and it causes no problems.

Maybe the rectifier went bad?

I don't mind the higher voltage it's when I run for a hour at 12 volts then all of a sudden goes up to 14+ :confused:that's the problem
 

Dave1027

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
1,083
Re: 1992 Mercury Charging System

My main motor has no regulator. It puts out 12 volts at idle and climbs to 16 when I give it gas. This fluctuation is not a problem for me. I see no ill effects. I actually like it. My horn is louder at speed.
 

verado7

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
511
Re: 1992 Mercury Charging System

your motor will have at least a rectifier otherwise you would be dumping ac voltage into the dc battery - replace the rectifier .
 

j_martin

Admiral
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
7,474
Re: 1992 Mercury Charging System

Sounds like the dual regulator 40 amp system. It's actually 2 completely independent 20 amp regulators. The rectifiers are built into the regulators. Usually the red wires are tied together at the solenoid, making it a 40 amp system. They can be isolated so one charges the starting battery, and the other charges an auxiliary battery.

The burnt yellow wires connectors are a problem. They're running 20 amps through a 10 amp connector. The heat generated both spoils the bullet connectors and travels down the wire to the regulator and overheats it. I'd cut them out and replace them with a wire nut for testing, solder and heat shrink once things are checked out.

Disconnected, each pair of yellow wires should yield about 15V per 1000 rpm. Each pair will brightly light a 12 volt headlamp at idle, and burn it out in a heartbeat if you rap the throttle. Each pair must be isolated from ground, and the other pair. (ohmmeter testing)

Once you have reliable AC into both regulators, you can disconnect the red output wires from each in turn, and test the other regulator. Look for obvious battery charging, and also connect the tachometer to the regulator under test and see if it works.

Most boats will run on one of the two regulators with no problems.

If you replace a regulator with a used one, stick with one of the black potted ones, or CDI. The clear (yellow) potted ones were not reliable.

hope it helps
john
 
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