1992 70hp Johnson - electrical issue with Trim and Start and gear shaft position fail

Fisherg3

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Hey everyone! Ok, I’ve done my thread search and I only see portions of my issue. Please help?! Any info would be truly appreciated!!!

1992 70hp Johnson VRO ( VRO function was removed by previous owner)
Model: J7OTLESB
I’m in California and some may know we’ve had more rain than I’ve ever experienced in my life! But during a storm break I went fishin and the water pump went out. Turned out to have a nut inside the impeller housing and it burned the hole bigger and no longer round. I’ll post some pics for shock value. Don’t know how long the nut was there for but…see pics.

Issue 1. Still learning by trial and error and most things I’m doing for the first time but I’ve done ok. I took the lower unit off and changed impeller started up and have more water shooting out than it’s ever had since I’ve owned this motor (2 years). When I changed the water pump I Didn’t know anything about the gear shift rod needing to be unmoved from it’s rested position etc. I did the job and when I started it, it starts in gear. Neutral is now just a short pull back on the control stick. No reverse, forward is now just past the normal neutral position. At the motor the shaft is being held properly and it looks to function correctly when motor isn’t on. I’ve taken the lower unit off and tried every position for the rod and where it’s held. Same. I can’t for the life of me get it back to the normal F ⬅️ N ⬆️ R ➡️. Help?

Issue 2. Messed with the two wheel adjusters on the cable connections at the motor for shift and throttle. Now it idles way to high and trying to shift it slams it into gear. Only tried that twice to get it back on the trailer.

Issue 3. Last week during one of the many storms I had been working on the lower unit and had engaged the trim motor to bring it up to take the lower off. I think the battery posts were wet from the rain. I swear I saw the battery post spark. Trim no longer moves down, consistently. Only sometimes. Same with the up. But if the Trim up doesn’t work then both don’t work. When I try to start the motor now, still have to start it in gear because Neutral is in gear but need it to be in neautral due to the neautral switch needing to be pushed in the control box to start it. And when I turn the key it sounds like the battery is dead. Real slow turn, then faster, then start. Aaand sometimes it won’t turn at all and I get clicks at the two relays and the starter solenoid.

I changed the two relays.. the trim down didn’t work the first few tries. Then it worked several times. Tried to start and that slow turn and then no turn, no trim at all. So I changed the starter solenoid, and same exact result. Not the first few tries but then i
Trim up and down work. Motor starts fine. Just not at the correct control stick position. Turn it off. Try again and back to only ‘trim up’ working. No motor turn. Checked the small 20amp inline fuse…. It’s good. Only thing left I knew to change out was the power pack. Same results exactly. So now I’ve got three days and $300.00 worth of unnecessary electrical replacement parts. So before I go purchasing anything else —any ideas? I had my batteries checked and all three came back good.

To make matters worse, I had to match the weather to prove when it rains it pours! I had to bring the motor down and due to trim down not working has to use the manual bleed screw on the side. I loosened that and the motor finally began to drop but trim oil shot out and the screw came out too far. The o ring on the screw broke and this split metal ring with two holes on each end of the opening of the circle came out and now the screw will go in but trim oil leaks out and so now there’s that. There’s only one shop that works on motors this old and they’re so backed up I won’t be on my boat till fall and I’m on my boat three days week by now.

Frustrated, lack of knowhow, no live help near by that I know of, and the striper are gonna be here any day and I’m gonna have a mental breakdown.

Thanks for any help!
 

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saltchuckmatt

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
1,816
Whoa, so many things to correct.

Let's start with the low voltage issue. Do you have an electrical meter? You need to trace your battery wire connectors and see if their maintaining voltage along the way. Do you have wing nuts on your battery? If so replace them with nuts. Might be your nutruel locater because something is messed up with your shift adjuster. More will come along soon telling you how to adjust that.

When you pulled the water pump did you do a complete pump replacement or just the impeller? I would suggest a complete replacement because of the nut.

Manual trim screw only needs a slight turn to make it go up and down so not sure what happened with yours. Sounds like you need to replace a seal.

As far as the control box goes there are many threads and videos on how to set the cables correctly....for now I would just remove them until you correct the other issues.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,360
Stop.----The shift rod has to be set to a specific length.-----So you need to remove lower unit again to adjust / set that.---ASk for dimension if you can not find it..-------Does the fitting for the tell tale hose come off the side of the engine ?----Or off the top of the block per a 1994 service bulletin?----That circlip limits how far you can turn the manual release valve.----Brute force will break that circlip !!
 

Fisherg3

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Whoa, so many things to correct.

Let's start with the low voltage issue. Do you have an electrical meter? You need to trace your battery wire connectors and see if their maintaining voltage along the way. Do you have wing nuts on your battery? If so replace them with nuts. Might be your nutruel locater because something is messed up with your shift adjuster. More will come along soon telling you how to adjust that.

When you pulled the water pump did you do a complete pump replacement or just the impeller? I would suggest a complete replacement because of the nut.

Manual trim screw only needs a slight turn to make it go up and down so not sure what happened with yours. Sounds like you need to replace a seal.

As far as the control box goes there are many threads and videos on how to set the cables correctly....for now I would just remove them until you correct the other issues.
Hello and thank you!
Yes I did a complete water pump kit. The picture shows the new housing vs the one that was burnt out. The crazy thing is how hot it got to discolor the metal and also disintegrate the metal all while having cold water running through it!

No wing nuts. I can get a voltmeter today. I just didn’t know where to place the probes specifically to test it. Should have done this prior to my purchases that’s for sure.

Yes, I’ve used the bleed screw before. Less than a turn and it’d lower. Not this time.
 

Fisherg3

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Stop.----The shift rod has to be set to a specific length.-----So you need to remove lower unit again to adjust / set that.---ASk for dimension if you can not find it..-------Does the fitting for the tell tale hose come off the side of the engine ?----Or off the top of the block per a 1994 service bulletin?----That circlip limits how far you can turn the manual release valve.----Brute force will break that circlip !!
Not sure I understand what the tell tale hose is. I’ll see if I can find the length for the rod. I needed not brute force for the release valve. I think the Oring broke and plugged the release space. The pressure was enough to stream oil all over me while being 2ft away. Thanks for the advice on the length.
 

saltchuckmatt

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
1,816
This is probably what you need to do to your shift shaft. Go to the 2/3 or 3/4 mark of this video and you will need your correct measurement.

 

Fisherg3

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Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Oh. Gotcha. Yeah my cooling system is in good shape. Thanks I’ll make sure the measurement is correct.
Thanks for your help.
G
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,360
There was a service bulletin in 1994 to move the tell tale fitting from the side of the block to the top.---Factory kit 0432955 has all the bits and information to modify / improve cooling on this motor.
 

Fisherg3

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Oh wow!! Ok I’ll check it out for sure. I think I’ll keep my focus on this shaft and electrical problem to solve and then tackle this next. I’m still trying to find the proper measurement but I ordered the service manual so I guess if worse comes to worse I’ll hopefully have it by this week.
Thank you again for your help.
 

Fisherg3

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Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Lol! Funny you should mention.. Yeah when I wrote my plea this morning it wasn’t wake up, I worked on it all night and at the point of pure frustration and exhaustion, I closed up and began to type.
Seriously appreciate the help!

Found out the manual relief valve is $146.00 and nearly impossible to obtain. However, I think all I need is the O Ring. Which I may have lucked out there. We’ll see.
 

Fisherg3

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Whoa, so many things to correct.

Let's start with the low voltage issue. Do you have an electrical meter? You need to trace your battery wire connectors and see if their maintaining voltage along the way. Do you have wing nuts on your battery? If so replace them with nuts. Might be your nutruel locater because something is messed up with your shift adjuster. More will come along soon telling you how to adjust that.

When you pulled the water pump did you do a complete pump replacement or just the impeller? I would suggest a complete replacement because of the nut.

Manual trim screw only needs a slight turn to make it go up and down so not sure what happened with yours. Sounds like you need to replace a seal.

As far as the control box goes there are many threads and videos on how to set the cables correctly....for now I would just remove them until you correct the other issues.
Ok.. so I got an O ring for the manual relief valve screw. It still leaks oil when the trim moves. Which leads me to this. I got a multimeter and checked the relays and they’re still good which is good because they’re new. Checked the solenoid and get good readings there at 13.2. I noticed the power trim wires that come out of the front of the motor and then link to the control box had come off the wire clamp just outside of the front of the motor. So I moved the wires around and put them back in the clamp. Trim works up and down without fail. I think there’s a break in the wire under the original plastic insulation. It’s the only portion of any of my wires that has any corrosion and my guess is it’s due to the gas and oil that tends to come out in that area near the carbs. So I’ll probably cut that plastic wrap and see for sure. Would be an easy fix if so. I didn’t try the motor since I was working at the storage place its housed at. But tomorrow I will navigate the shift shaft measurement and take it to the lake and see if this can all be resolved. This would be an amazing relief if it all comes together. Stay tuned!
G
 

Fisherg3

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
41
Ok! I’ve got the trim working nice and smooth. And I’ve got the shift shaft where it’s suppose to be ‘I think’. I can’t get it to turn over now. Tested the relays. It’s a brand new starter solenoid. I attached a video of what I hear. But I was wondering if there is a “button” of some sort that is pressed when in neutral or something, at the motor. I know there is in the control box as I replaced that last summer.
 

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racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,360
The solenoid sounds like it is working.----So charge the battery .----Load test the battery.---Check battery cables.----Inspect starter.
 
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