1991 60hp Johnson Issue

[racerone]

Yes I am aware of those holes.-----The owner of this motor needs to do some organized trouble shooting !!

 

[renvette2]

Didn't 91 start with the decompression holes. If so the values are probably ok

I think so. Besides, the compression has been in that range for years and the motor was working fine.

 

[renvette2]

Yes I am aware of those holes.-----The owner of this motor needs to do some organized trouble shooting !!

Organized troubleshooting is being done. That's how I discovered the bad stator to fix the no spark issue. Doesn't matter how reliable parts are, this is a 30+ year old motor and if man made it, it will fail. Thank you for the suggestions.

 

[racerone]

Good luck with your project.-----A cylinder sleeve out of " position " can also be a reason for power loss.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

did you go through the carburetors and make sure the throttle cam roller isn't touching the cam and has its clear outer sleeve in place? these motors don't like to be out of synch! is the primer bulb firm or does it go flat?

 

[oldboat1]

Gently close the needle valve (clockwise), counting the turns so you know where it was set. Then open the valve about 1/2 turn beyond the prior setting and test run. If you can find the right air mix, you may be ready to go. (The trick in stalling is to determine whether it's getting too much fuel or too little, so you should experiment.)

Burt measure the spark with a proper tester (cheap item) to determine whether the ignition is performing at strength.

If not there yet, disassemble and soak the carbs, cleaning all openings and passages. HS jet is on the bottom. LS passages are at the top, along with the LS jet. Remove the domed core plug on top before soaking (need kits for replacement plugs).

Check operating temp -- poss. air lock at top unless tell-tale is moved (mentioned above).

 

[renvette2]

Gently close the needle valve (clockwise), counting the turns so you know where it was set. Then open the valve about 1/2 turn beyond the prior setting and test run. If you can find the right air mix, you may be ready to go. (The trick in stalling is to determine whether it's getting too much fuel or too little, so you should experiment.)

Burt measure the spark with a proper tester (cheap item) to determine whether the ignition is performing at strength.

If not there yet, disassemble and soak the carbs, cleaning all openings and passages. HS jet is on the bottom. LS passages are at the top, along with the LS jet. Remove the domed core plug on top before soaking (need kits for replacement plugs).

Check operating temp -- poss. air lock at top unless tell-tale is moved (mentioned above).

Thank you for the assistance.

 

[renvette2]

My 60hp Johnson will start fine and appear to rev up in forward and reverse when on muffs. However, when I put the boat in the lake and attempt to give it gas, it barely moves and dies if I try to accelerate. It also dies when I put it in reverse. I replaced the stator and power pack about 3 weeks ago as they were bad and had no spark. Can this be the coil packs? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

UPDATE: I got my DVA in and it appears the timer base is bad. I read that you have to set the timing after changing it. How difficult is that to do? Should I take it to a shop to have that done?

 

[flyingscott]

UPDATE: I got my DVA in and it appears the timer base is bad. I read that you have to set the timing after changing it. How difficult is that to do? Should I take it to a shop to have that done?

Look up the Joe reeves method of timing

 

[soundchaser]

have you replaced all your fuel lines with ethanol resistant fuel lines?

 

[oldboat1]

Prop slipping, or has that possibility been covered?

 

[renvette2]

have you replaced all your fuel lines with ethanol resistant fuel lines?

yes