1990 Sea Ray BR160 Electrical Fuel Pump

[TheTaxButler]

Hello to all the the wonderful people in this forum. I am a new boat owner, having grabbed a 1990 Sea Ray BR160 off craigslist for about $350 as a project boat. I was having issues with the fuel delivery to Carb so switched over to an electric fuel pump. I KNOW the mechanical fuel pumps are more reliable and will keep the old one on hand, I guess I just like to try to make things more difficult for myself, which leads me to this post.

I have an oil pressure switch teed with the oil pressure sender. I have looked extensively at other forum posts on how to wire the pump and switch system. I have wired the pump to the switch with a 10amp fuse in between per my pumps circuit schematic. My pump is rated at 4-6psi which is what I was told is all well and good for a carb system. I have also sent a wire from the switch and INTO the purple ignition switch wire on the wiring harness. Other forum posts, especially by the venerable Don S have shown a schematic which shows to send a wire to the Starter Solenoid at the purple/yellow wire. The problem is that my Mercruiser 3.0L AlphaOne does not have a purple/yellow starter wire on Solenoid. It has the regular Red, orange and Red/Yellow wires on the Solenoid (the latter of which is in the opposite position of where Purple/yellow would be. I went ahead and attached the wire to WHERE the purple/yellow would have been on the diagram. Mistake?

When I turn the key from off, the pump does not come on but it will come on after I have tried cranking the unit. Is this correct operation? If it is not sending pressure until after I have stopped cranking, I don't see how that would help with starting or filling the carb bowl! I have read another forum with another Mercruiser that seemed to have the same setup with another post by the Venerable Don S indicating that maybe they should try using the red/yellow wire on Solenoid. Should the pump be working only when trying to crank, when I first turn the key on from "off" position or both? I can send pictures later if needed. Any help is appreciated for the beginner boater!

 

[Scott Danforth]

first, welcome aboard

second. the 3.0 mechanical fuel pump either works or it doesnt. if it doestn work, there would be fuel in the tell-tale hose

third, are you using a marine electric pump (there are only two commercially available - the carter, and the airtex (carter))

 

[TheTaxButler]

Scott,

I am aware that it will either work or it won't. I was having major problems reinstalling the fuel pump after taking it off to change out the fuel filter located on the bottom. I could not seat the fuel pump correctly and decided I would just try my luck blocking it off and using an electric. I will keep the old one on hand in case of an Emergency in the event that I can figure my sh*$t out and get it back on. I am not trying to rehash how to install it by seating with the pushrod. I did not see fuel in the line but it was also not delivering fuel to the carb probably due to an anti-syphon valve ( I already replaced hose barbs and added new line after).

Anyways, I did go ahead and buy a Carter Marine Electric Fuel Pump. I've read that they need to be anti-spark and found a pretty good price for it Online. Its got a positive line which is being sent to the Oil Pressure Switch with the fuse in between and a ground which is attached to the block.

 

[Silvertip]

The connection to the starter solenoid (small wire from key switch) is necessary because it allows the pump to run when cranking the engine and oil pressure has not yet risen. When the engine starts the 12V feed from a KEY ON position keeps the pump running through the oil pressure switch. If the engine dies, oil pressure drops and the pressure switch kills the pump. You do not want that pump running should the engine die, key left on, amid an engine fire or other disaster. The starter connection essentially bypasses the pressure switch for starting purposes.