1990 Rinker 18.6

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,282
If the rotor is not turning while the starter is turning the engine over then there are a lot more problems internally in the engine.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,916
Ayuh,..... He says it does turn, Kenny,...
I took the distributor cap off the rotor, does turn with the engine.
Or aleast that's how I read it,..... 'bout 2 posts from the bottom of page 1,....
 

ibrw1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
248
Previous owner rewired portions of the boat, I have all winter to fix it. I never give up. Truly if I had a wiring diagram, id be done.

Is this correct? This is how its currently wired
J1171 distributor wire colors
From Distributor White-> Green/white TB4 ignition
From Distributor Black-> to Ground
From Distributor Red-> Red/White to TB4 ignition

I went through all procedures. Only possible issues
1) Bad rotor sensor
2) Rotor sensor faulty
3) Rotor sensor wiring incorrect

Last test was useing dual channel oscilloscope
key turned to on
Channel 1 +12vdc
Channel 2 - 12vdc
Turned held key start
Channel 1 +12vdc
Channel 2 + 8.5vdc
I have added a 12ga thhn wire going from battery minus to ground at TB4
cap off, Rotor does turn with engine.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,350
ALWAYS know when to NOT do a major DIY job. (y)(y)(y)(y)(y)
That unhelpful "advice" isn't really worth posting in a DIY forum, especially since this is a pretty minor problem.

Previous owner rewired portions of the boat, I have all winter to fix it. I never give up. Truly if I had a wiring diagram, id be done.

Is this correct? This is how its currently wired
J1171 distributor wire colors
From Distributor White-> Green/white TB4 ignition
From Distributor Black-> to Ground
From Distributor Red-> Red/White to TB4 ignition

I went through all procedures. Only possible issues
1) Bad rotor sensor
2) Rotor sensor faulty
3) Rotor sensor wiring incorrect

Last test was useing dual channel oscilloscope
key turned to on
Channel 1 +12vdc
Channel 2 - 12vdc
Turned held key start
Channel 1 +12vdc
Channel 2 + 8.5vdc
I have added a 12ga thhn wire going from battery minus to ground at TB4
cap off, Rotor does turn with engine.
Not sure which channels are which there, but I believe you should be getting a sine wave off of the distributor and a stepped signal off the module to the coil neg (either way it should be a switching wave form of some sort from both, don't remember off hand if the distributor trigger is hall type). Seriously though, the troubleshooting guide is basically bench testing each component, pretty straightforward stuff esp if you're comfortable with a scope. As for the diagram, I mean, try Google.
 

ibrw1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
248
That unhelpful "advice" isn't really worth posting in a DIY forum, especially since this is a pretty minor problem.

Not sure which channels are which there, but I believe you should be getting a sine wave off of the distributor and a stepped signal off the module to the coil neg (either way it should be a switching wave form of some sort from both, don't remember off hand if the distributor trigger is hall type). Seriously though, the troubleshooting guide is basically bench testing each component, pretty straightforward stuff esp if you're comfortable with a scope. As for the diagram, I mean, try Google.
I went through ALL of the procedures. Yes extremely easy. In the mid 70s I drove from house to house repairing TV sets in homes when in highschool.
I got my amateur radio license when I was eight years old, I was an automobile mechanic after I got out of the Navy. I received degrees in electronics. And for the last 40 years of my life, I travel around the planet repairing motor drives, programmable logic controllers. hundreds of printed circuit boards repaired to component level, Anything and everything. The only reason I mention this is to get past the idea that I quite possibly overlooked something due to unfamiliarity with electrical electronic devices. I’m just trying to keep the simple stuff out of it.

Everyone’s comments thus far are definitely appreciated! (Nobody knows everything) with the exception of my wife, my mother-in-law and my kids.

Thundorbolt 4 SAE J1171 marine distributor.

The previous owner had a water damage issue, he bought lots of parts in an effort to resolve.
He was unsuccessful so he sold the boat for $1000 to my neighbor. Anyway the previous owner rewired part of the boat as well.

The plus side of the coil goes to 12v actually 12.8.v
The minus side of the coil needs to go low towards ground. See below, I made it more clear.

Last test was useing dual channel oscilloscope
Turned KEY to on, not start.
Channel 1 +12vdc this is PLUS side of the Coil
Channel 2 - 12vdc this is MINUS side of the Coil
Turned & held KEY start
Channel 1 +12vdc this is PLUS side of the Coil
Channel 2 + 8.5vdc this is MINUS side of the Coil
(NOTE) channel 2 of scope was fluctuating between approximately 8.5 and 12 V.
(NOTE) no spark.
(NOTE) I have added a 12ga thhn heavy copper wire going from battery minus to ground at TB4.
(NOTE) I did OHM out the coil. Its good! The previous owner supplied three coils. I guess he threw a lot of money at the boat in an attempt to repair it.
Primary 1.4 ohms
Secondary 6500 ohms
(NOTE) Yes, with the distributor cap off, Rotor does turn with engine.
(NOTE) the tachometer is okay AND currently disconnected.

(Question) SAE J1171 marine distributor has three wires coming out of it. Red, White, Black.

I can’t find anything anywhere that describes exactly where they’re supposed to go. I’m convinced that it’s wired wrong. This is the only information I really need.

proximity sensor wiring.
Is this correct? This is how its currently wired
J1171 distributor wire colors
From Distributor White-> Green/white TB4 ignition
From Distributor Black-> to Ground
From Distributor Red-> Red/White to TB4 ignition
.
 
Last edited:

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,350
So what does the troubleshooting guide lead to for a diagnosis? Still haven't posted that, which is really the only info needed to diagnose this.

Nobody is going to know what a scope reading on that should be, since that's not how anybody including merc techs perform the diagnostics. I would guess that that fluctuation should be greater, and you also need to know your cranking speed to know if that fluctuation is at the correct frequency and correlates with the rotor movement. If you want to continue down this more difficult path you'd also need to scope the green/wht wire off of the dizzy. Sounds like your dizzy sensor is aftermarket, should be wht/red, wht/grn and black. Wht/red goes to module, wht/grn goes to module but also shift interrupt switch. If that switch is closed then your ignition grounds and kills spark.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,376
Previous owner rewired portions of the boat, I have all winter to fix it. I never give up. Truly if I had a wiring diagram, id be done.

Is this correct? This is how its currently wired
J1171 distributor wire colors
From Distributor White-> Green/white TB4 ignition
From Distributor Black-> to Ground
From Distributor Red-> Red/White to TB4 ignition

I went through all procedures. Only possible issues
1) Bad rotor sensor
2) Rotor sensor faulty
3) Rotor sensor wiring incorrect

Last test was useing dual channel oscilloscope
key turned to on
Channel 1 +12vdc
Channel 2 - 12vdc
Turned held key start
Channel 1 +12vdc
Channel 2 + 8.5vdc
I have added a 12ga thhn wire going from battery minus to ground at TB4
cap off, Rotor does turn with engine.
If you went through the TB troubleshooting and it says the sensor is dead this is a very common issue and easy fix. You may want to buy a rotor (trigger wheel comes with it) as last time I changed my rotor (was original maybe 12 yr old) I had to chisel the old one off

This is also a good place to use OEM merc part vs the cheaper aftermarket ones out there
 
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