Re: 1990 Mercruiser 5.7 needs replaced
Feel much better now thank you! Most of the potential problems that can arise in these swap-outs can be solved up front by making sure that your replacement long block is of the same year range as the one coming out. There were several minor changes in the block design over the years. Your sheet metal HAS to bolt up (valve covers, timing chain cover, oil pan), if you have a 2 bolt main block...the oil pan will not work with a 4 bolt main block. You should make sure the dipstick hole is in the correct location. Also make sure that the flywheel bolt pattern is the same...you have to bolt up to your drive adaptor...same with your starter bolt pattern. Just make sure that the people ordering your new block get the correct year and you will be OK.<br /><br />You can buy these engines locally at places like Advance Auto...their 350 automotive long block is $850 & the marine version is $1200...differences are primarily in the head gaskets, freeze plugs and the cam. The marine cam is ground to produce more low end torque...go for it. Same thing with them on the warrantee...it is less on the marine engine. At least with them, if you have a problem they are local.<br /><br />You should be able to swap one out from start to finish in a day. One thing we have started to do is to run the engine before you put it back in the boat. Simply use some 4X4 blocking under the engine mounts, run a garden hose to the water pump and about 10' of 4" flexible plastic hose from the exhaust (or whatever fits). Use a portable fuel tank...just cut off the fitting where it would connect to an outboard & clamp to the fuel pump. Hook up a battery, wire in a switch and start that sucker up. Unless you really get carried away with the throttle, it will just sit there and run. I like to let them run for at least 15-20 minutes to make sure there are no oil or water leaks. It's a lot easier to fix them while the engine is still out of the boat
Have fun...hope this helped more than it confused. Best.......John