1990 Force 120HP #2 Cyl zero compression and upon opening piston shows damage

[gica]

I will check again. But I think once it starts once the alarm goes off. Cannot remember if before cranking also, and just ignition on.

 

[topgun3690]

When alarm goes off check temp of head with IR thermometer......if not hot then you got a wiring/elec problem.....or maybe a bad thermo switch.

 

[gica]

I did it was at around 140. Yeah, alarm doesn't go off right away it takes a few turns. I mean the motor starts and stops after 2-3 seconds sometimes 5-6. If I rev it up it stays running if at 2k or higher RPM, dies at idle or close to. But I will take out the lower drive again. When I mounted it, at first, I had a hard time getting it in and I might have screwed up something around the water pump, either housing or plastic to the inlet pipe.

 

[topgun3690]

Looks like yours has a 130* tstat......140 not that high. You got good water pressure on hose, muffs sealing good?

 

[gica]

The pressure is fine muffs not the best kind. I will take down the drive and see if the plasticpiecesup there were cracked during the failed install. I did install it pretty easy when putting the engine at an angle but before that it was chaos hahaha. Lots of failed attempts with a jack. Who know the angle was the sweet spot?! So there was some water at the junction between the drives. And some coming out the two little holes up above that. Maybe that causes tye alarm to go off.
The idle issue is a whole different problem I think. Hopefully it is the carbs that need cleaning and not some other dificult problem.

 

[topgun3690]

Lots of failed attempts with a jack. Who know the angle was the sweet spot?!
The idle issue is a whole different problem I think. Hopefully it is the carbs that need cleaning and not some other dificult problem.

Been there, done that with a jack.....the angle is the ticket. LU can get heavy quickly trying to stab it in there, lol.
Your idle issue....to me sounds like a fuel starvation problem.....if you didn't clean/rebuild the carbs before it might be time to do it. Check all fuel hoses, primer bulbs, tank vent, etc......

 

[The Force power]

I will take down the drive and see if the plastic piece up there were cracked during the failed install. I did install it pretty easy when putting the engine at an angle but before that it was chaos hahaha. Lots of failed attempts with a jack. Who know the angle was the sweet spot?! So there was some water at the junction between the drives. And some coming out the two little holes up above that. Maybe that causes the alarm to go off.

I had this happen to me;
Not lined-up properly, causing to crack the adapter on the housing AND filling-up the entire lower-leg with water. YES water WILL eventually make its way to the head BUT not enough flow. hence the overheating.
I took two 6" bolts , cut-off the head and use them as guides/support to align the lower-unit while getting mounted

 

[topgun3690]

I took two 6" bolts , cut-off the head and use them as guides/support to align the lower-unit while getting mounted

That is a great idea.....will try that next time!

 

[gica]

Yeah so I have the juicy updates on the 3 issues.
The top carb is squarting fuel when primed. When I run the engine it doesn't do it. So idle below 2k rpm is not possible. I can keep it running if I put the remote forward and keep it at 2k or more.
Sounds great untill the heat alarm goes off.

 

[gica]

As far as the heating issue well, I cracked the impeller housing guys. And it was new.
I screwed it up. I will provide pictures.
I reordered it. Wtf. I should have known better. And when I angled the engineit went in right away. I guess I always screw it up first then get it right. Oh well.
There is a storm coming to SoCal this weekend. So the tuna is being pushed this way hahaha. **** I will neverget this damn boat done. Kidding.
So thereare a total of 2 issues left

 

[topgun3690]

As far as the heating issue well, I cracked the impeller housing guys. And it was new.
I screwed it up. I will provide pictures.
I reordered it. Wtf. I should have known better. And when I angled the engineit went in right away. I guess I always screw it up first then get it right. Oh well.
There is a storm coming to SoCal this weekend. So the tuna is being pushed this way hahaha. **** I will neverget this damn boat done. Kidding.
So thereare a total of 2 issues left

The torque spec for the pump housing bolts is 70 IN LBS....or about 6 FT LBS....think maybe you cranked it down too hard?

 

[gica]

No, I did 70 inlb. It's from lifting it with a jack like a moron. Hipefully this will fix that issue.
When you put the impeller in the engine is twisted clock wise right?
What say you on the carb?

 

[gica]

So the hole inside the bowl and the one hole it leaks through are connected. I blew air through it.
Any thoughts? Am I missing something?

 

[topgun3690]

No, I did 70 inlb. It's from lifting it with a jack like a moron. Hipefully this will fix that issue.
When you put the impeller in the engine is twisted clock wise right?
What say you on the carb?

The impeller spins clockwise .....this pic is what it should look like from underneath.....with impeller mounted in the housing, flip it over and slide down the shaft and engage the key in the slot.
The carb leaking from that hole......could be the float needle not shutting the fuel off and causing it to overflow out that hole.

 

[gica]

You know I thought that. I adjusted the float because when I turned it upside down it was sitting down passed parallel so I bent it to keep it parallel. In the book it says it has to be parallel to the body on one end and almost touching the jet onthe other adjustment end.
But the holes that leak are linked to the bowl and the other to the main channel also in the bowl.
I don't think I want to mess with the idle tube and contact nozzle if I don't need to.
Any idea if the float being out of adjustment can cause the idle issue?

 

[jerryjerry05]

It doesn't matter which way the vanes of the impeller set when installed.
The second it is turned over to start it straightens out.
The float in the carb: carb upside down: the float should be level.
Carb right side up: the float drop should almost touch the tube. That's not as important than the float being level.

 

[gica]

Yeah it wasn't level, or parallel it was dropping down.
Can this cause the idle issue?

 

[The Force power]

As far as the heating issue well, I cracked the impeller housing guys. And it was new.

SOMETIMES you can use crazy glue to "save" the top (I did)

 

[The Force power]

Yeah so I have the juicy updates on the 3 issues.
The top carb is squarting fuel when primed. When I run the engine it doesn't do it. So idle below 2k rpm is not possible. I can keep it running if I put the remote forward and keep it at 2k or more.

The issue you'reexperiencing with that; Mabe here in step# 4. The black roller is held with an offset screw and nut. Loosen the nut and turn the screw until the black roller JUST touches the cam. Tighten the nut and re-attach the ball link maintaining the scribed line at the roller.

I had this issue and fixed it by not "JUST" touch BUT slightly ever so slightly advance it

 

[gica]

So I took the carb apart. In order to get the main nozzle unscrewed I had to remove the long tube #6 that was in the way. There seems to be a plug cap #5 at the end. I hammered it from the bottom out through the bowl. I did not see the cap but the tube was plugged up couldn't blow through it. opened it up with a paper clip. That might have been the end cap who knows. So now I have to buy a cap.
What is the purpose of that tube? Is it supposed to be plugged up?
I took off all the jets air and fuel. Idle mix adjust screw. Did not remove the welch plug.
So just clean and put back?
Found this on the floor. Last picture. Is that a plug. It's minuscule. And it doesn't really stay kind of moves around. Should JB weld it? What the heck!