1990 Force 120HP #2 Cyl zero compression and upon opening piston shows damage

[gica]

I ordered a Snap on hopefully it will do.

 

[gica]

I ordered a snap on 6mm and a Gearwrench one.

 

[gica]

Now to the cyl wall findings. It is scarred.
Can honing clear it? What type hone flex, stone or brush?
From What I read the ball hone is the best. The other 2 get stuck and can cause pitting. They use muriatic acid to get any caked aluminum off. Then they use honing oil for the surfacing. Hope I don't have to rebore it.
The cylinder is a sleeve. I remember long time ago when I did my first engine on a Renault 5 little car it was sleeved and I actually replaced the sleeve no biggie but this engine is different and the sleeves looked pressed in there with some plastic material between the sleeves.

 

[gica]

Found this older thread I hope mine is not already oversized.

1990 Force 120 Cylinder Bore HELP !

I have a 1990 Force 120 . I bought the motor and didn't do a compression check. The motor ran and shifted o.k. so I thought it was fine. Not knowing about doing a compression check, I found out the hard way . One piston had 0 compression. The others were fairly high140. I disassembled the motor...

forums.iboats.com

 

[The Force power]

Now to the cyl wall findings. It is scarred.
Can honing clear it? What type hone flex, stone or brush?
From What I read the ball hone is the best. The other 2 get stuck and can cause pitting. They use muriatic acid to get any caked aluminum off. Then they use honing oil for the surfacing. Hope I don't have to rebore it.
The cylinder is a sleeve. I remember long time ago when I did my first engine on a Renault 5 little car it was sleeved and I actually replaced the sleeve no biggie but this engine is different and the sleeves looked pressed in there with some plastic material between the sleeves.

IF??? your fingernail get caught on the grooves it will need a re-bore
If not, than a honing stone will clean-up the glazed cylinder-wall
These engines do not have sleeves!

 

[The Force power]

Found this older thread I hope mine is not already oversized.

1990 Force 120 Cylinder Bore HELP !

I have a 1990 Force 120 . I bought the motor and didn't do a compression check. The motor ran and shifted o.k. so I thought it was fine. Not knowing about doing a compression check, I found out the hard way . One piston had 0 compression. The others were fairly high140. I disassembled the motor...

forums.iboats.com

Measure the Cylinder-wall, the only way to find out

 

[gica]

Will get back to you after, thanks for the input.

 

[gica]

These are the specs in my book which is for a 92 but should be the same I think.
Is 3.375 max or standard?

 

[The Force power]

These are the specs in my book which is for a 92 but should be the same I think.
Is 3.375 max or standard?

Standard

 

[gica]

Ok these are the measurements. Errror of .001 or .0015 could be there.

 

[gica]

The second engine measured the same.
Only did number 2 cylinder that had 110 compression.
I looked at it close and there is some build up of aluminum. It feel above the walls when I use my nail. So the one spot that has one palpabile scratch it is between 2 high spots. The telescoping gauge gets stuck there

 

[gica]

So I hit another snag trying to take out the flywheel. The 3 holes that they provide size M6x1.0 are a freaking joke. Who the heck engineered this for a used stuck corroded flywheel to use those size bolts
in aluminum. They basically got pulled out instantly so I made the holes bigger and bigger. Went through M7, M8, M10. And they all came out. Finally a light bulb turned on and I decided to go to tge next level M12 but I used a set of EZ Loc thread repair system and gieswhat that **** got locked in baby. Hammer time and gas torch it pulled that headache out.

 

[The Force power]

So I hit another snag trying to take out the flywheel. The 3 holes that they provide size M6x1.0 are a freaking joke. Who the heck engineered this for a used stuck corroded flywheel to use those size bolts
in aluminum. They basically got pulled out instantly so I made the holes bigger and bigger. Went through M7, M8, M10. And they all came out. Finally a light bulb turned on and I decided to go to tge next level M12 but I used a set of EZ Loc thread repair system and gieswhat that **** got locked in baby. Hammer time and gas torch it pulled that headache out.

Yeah, they can be a bugger to come off without damaging
Inspect the tapered part of the shaft & fly-wheel it may need some good cleaning (don't loose the key)

 

[gica]

Yeah, they can be a bugger to come off without damaging
Inspect the tapered part of the shaft & fly-wheel it may need some good cleaning (don't loose the key)

This was the newer flywheel. The one from the second engine looks like it's an original 1990. Don't even wanna think about taking it off right now.

 

[gica]

Ok so what do you think about my measurements of tye cylinder walls?
I posted it above. The second engine is the same. I want to try to hone. You said stone hone. I shared a video above where the guy advices against it and shows why, he uses the flex hone.

 

[Nordin]

I use three brusher flex honing tool, have always worked out well.
From your measurement it indicates you can go with standard piston and rings in my opinion.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I'm not in Canada, try Snapoff?

 

[jerryjerry05]

I'm not in Canada.
Try Snap-off?
Sorry double posted???

 

[gica]

A 3.5 ball hone aluminum oxide should be enough right? This is an aluminum cylinder right? Or did you use the regular type? And the grit, did you use one size? I never used the flex always used stone în the past. And do you do dry honing or honing oil, 10-30 oil,Water etc

 

[gica]

I'm not in Canada, try Snapoff?

I would snap-off if I don't use snap-on right?