1989 Mariner, 115hp, four cyl., carb. 9 amp Mod# OC00000268 parts numbers question.

mongose2

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May 20, 2011
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I have quite a bit of experience with this ignition system, but this time, much more. I understand that the number after the A is an upgrade, but does all the up grades work on a lower one? for instance a stator for my engine is part # 8779A11. Would # 8778A23 be compatible? I ordered an aftermarket stator that was supposed to be compatible, but when I test it according to the repair manual it failed. Got test for the aftermarket and the test is completely different than original. can it work? Same problem with the trigger for the engine, which blew after installing the stator. How can the after market products work with this system? The tests:
AFTER MARKET STATOR MERCURY STATOR TEST
Blue read to Blue/White 500-700 ohms Blue read to Red 90-140 ohms (R x 1000)
Red read to Red/White 28-32 ohms Red read to ground 90-140 ohms (R x 1)

AFTER MARKET TRIGGER TEST MERCURY TRIGGER TEST
Purple read to White 800-1400 Purple read to White Black 1100-1400
Brown read to White/black 800-1400 Brown read to White Black 1100-1400 White read to ground open White read to White Black 1100-1400
Purple read to ground open
Brown read to ground open
White/Black to ground open
 

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Faztbullet

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Need a DVA adapter and test output not ohms. Yes an A23 would be compatible. A bad stator will not damage a trigger but a bad switchbox will
 

mongose2

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Need a DVA adapter and test output not ohms. Yes an A23 would be compatible. A bad stator will not damage a trigger but a bad switchbox will
question. can you get an accurate DVA reading while just cranking without starting? I have concerns about doing that or running it because if one part is wrong, or out, it could take out other parts of this system. For some reason, half of my information on the tests were not posted.
 
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mongose2

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Only part of the tests made it into the original post, so her is the rest of it. Hope it aligns this time The tests:
AFTER MARKET STATOR TEST: blue to Blue/White = 500-700 ohms,,, Red to Red/White = 28-32 ohms
MERCURY STATOR TEST: Blue to Red = 900-1400 ohms (low speed),,,, Red to ground = 900-1400 (high speed) Are the two stators compatible? I don't see how they could be.

AFTER MKT. TRIGGER TEST: purple to White = 800-1400, Brown to White/Black = 800-1400, purple, white, brown, white/black to ground = open........ OEM TRIGGER TEST: brown to white/black = 1100-1400, white to white/black = 1100-1400, purple to white/black = 1100-1400 Are the two triggers compatible? I can't see how they could be.
 

mongose2

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Ok folks, reinstalled all the CHINA parts and it blew my timing light. Went got a new one, attached it and it blew. The stator is supposed to throw 700 volts to the power pack, but was throwing only 23 volts, but, the 700 volts was being thrown to the charging circuit to the batteries. CHINA STUFF DOESNT' WORK ON MERCURYS. SENT EVERYTHING BACK AND ORDER CDI
 

flyingscott

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Ok folks, reinstalled all the CHINA parts and it blew my timing light. Went got a new one, attached it and it blew. The stator is supposed to throw 700 volts to the power pack, but was throwing only 23 volts, but, the 700 volts was being thrown to the charging circuit to the batteries. CHINA STUFF DOESNT' WORK ON MERCURYS. SENT EVERYTHING BACK AND ORDER CDI
Something doesn't sound right there. How do you blow a timing light they are inductive?
 

racerone

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Something was not hooked up right or testing method was totally wrong !
 

mongose2

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Something was not hooked up right or testing method was totally wrong !
Yep. the mfg testing proceedure is totally different than OEM tests. been reporting that to the supplier but refuses to except it. I tested the last stator after it blew. It sent a massive charge through the rectifier and into the battery and from the battery to the timing light. They are using the wrong windings for the wrong thing in the stator I assume. All those parts have been sent back, got refunded for only one. They claim I caused the damage, as usual, so I'm out a grand. Got all new CDE parts in and will be in and on the water by weekend. waiting for a netural start switch for the controler now. Broke it when changing out the ignition switch which was blown also I will NEVER buy any part from China ever again.
 

mongose2

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Something doesn't sound right there. How do you blow a timing light they are inductive?
I know. Somehow the stator sent a massive charge through the rectifier which was blown and into the battery which the timing light was attached.
 

QBhoy

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Don’t suppose you had this hooked up to jump leads connected to a running car or truck at the time ? Just a thought. Quickest way to blow components on a rectifier charge system like this.
 

mongose2

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Don’t suppose you had this hooked up to jump leads connected to a running car or truck at the time ? Just a thought. Quickest way to blow components on a rectifier charge system like this.
Nope. Had it attached to the same battery the engine was attached to. It actually killed the battery. by the end of the day it had no juice and wont charge up.
 

mongose2

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Something is not right here 700 volts of AC to a 12 VDC battery?
That was a guess. I have only idea about it. I don't know if it's even possible that the stator sent voltage to the power pack, increased it to go to the coils and sent it back through the stator and through the rectifier. I wish I knew, because it killed the power pack, the trigger, the stator, the rectifier, the battery and even the ignition switch, and the remote trim and tilt switch on the motor (which was going bad anyway). The stator and trigger is back in China being tested, and they say they will give me the results when available. I have repaired this system a dozen time in 33 years, and NEVER had anything like this happen before.
 

mongose2

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Don’t suppose you had this hooked up to jump leads connected to a running car or truck at the time ? Just a thought. Quickest way to blow components on a rectifier charge system like this.
No, attached to the same battery the engine is attached to.
 

mongose2

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May 20, 2011
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Cheaper to make an appointment at your local friendly boat shop.
I tried several times to to that. NOBODY knew anything about this system in this area. That is the reason I learned about it myself. Had a problem once before when the engine would crank and run great until I put it into gear and it would die. NOBODY, on line or in any repair shop in North GA could give me an answer. I went through the manual page by page, and in the LAST SECTION there was a piece that said "how to set up your remote control". Followed it to the "T" and it worked. It is the interaction of the controller and the timing between the carbs and ignition system.
 

mongose2

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Ok folks. Took all the China parts out, sent trigger and stator back to seller. None of them tested like the original manual, and I talked to the seller several times about that, but he insisted they were the same and for that model. installed a new CDI power pack, CDI trigger, CDI stator, rectifier and original ignition switch, which tests as the same as original does. Got good spark on all four, re-timed everything and will head to the lake for fine tuning tomorrow. Over one thousand bucks out the window and into the mud in China.
 

mongose2

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Ok, got it to the lake, engine started fine, wouldn't go but six mph. Got home ran tests again everything checked fine. took plugs out wired together and grounded, watched all four sparking a few times and one quit. changed the wires around and same thing happened on same plug. The same plug the timing light was attached to when the system blew it. So, some engineer please tell me how that much current blew out the entire system on this engine including the battery? Went ahead and replaced the plugs and the coils. Now, EVERYTHING, from the ignition switch to the plugs are new and American made.....Testing Monday because wind is 25 tomorrow.
 
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