Shop recently rebuilt my overheated '89 Evinrude 150xp model e150stlcem on an '89 Crestliner Phantom v180 SST. I've had a variety of issues since getting it back after 2 seasons at the shop. I'll limit this to the ongoing issues I'd like input on.
Wire coming from temp gauge was a loose end in the splash-well. They spliced a wire on to reach the sending unit on the lower port head. Now temp gauge doesn't seem to be working correctly or I could have temp issues. It's a green/red gauge and when I'm idling it's in the mid-upper green range but, any kind of speed and it almost maxes out the red zone. The heads get warm but, not too hot to keep your hand on. I don't recall the temp gauge acting this way before the rebuild. Could it have shorted because of the loose end wire? Or is the spliced wire vs. one continuous wire an issue? How do I diagnose if it's the gauge or sending unit? Anyone KNOW the normal external head operating temp?
They disconnected the starboard temp switch because it was causing a false alarm. The discontinued switch is upwards of $200 now. I still have a port temp switch, no alarms, and the alarm system is functional. VRO still active but, in the process of finding the false alarm, they also disconnected the vacuum switch mounted above the VRO pump, stating it was redundant and unnecessary. It idles at almost 1000rpm, I believe it was closer to 700-800rpm before. I believe the starboard temp switch also has something to do with cold start fast idling. Could this be causing my fast idle? Do I really need to replace the starboard temp switch? Or should I just adjust the idle? Seems like it takes awhile to warm up and I can't always 'Hit It' without stalling the motor. Once I've opened it up for awhile I'm good to 'Hit It' from idle for my hole shot. I thought maybe the 50:1 tank or 2 of gas during the break-in process could've fouled my plugs so I'll check them. Should I check the timing too?
When I shift from forward to neutral now, it takes a second or 2 for the shift to happen. That worries me. I believe it should shift right away, not delay. I don't like the idea of a prop still spinning under power 1 or 2 seconds after I've shifted to neutral. Could this be lower unit issues? Fluid level? Or do I need to adjust the shift rod?
Wire coming from temp gauge was a loose end in the splash-well. They spliced a wire on to reach the sending unit on the lower port head. Now temp gauge doesn't seem to be working correctly or I could have temp issues. It's a green/red gauge and when I'm idling it's in the mid-upper green range but, any kind of speed and it almost maxes out the red zone. The heads get warm but, not too hot to keep your hand on. I don't recall the temp gauge acting this way before the rebuild. Could it have shorted because of the loose end wire? Or is the spliced wire vs. one continuous wire an issue? How do I diagnose if it's the gauge or sending unit? Anyone KNOW the normal external head operating temp?
They disconnected the starboard temp switch because it was causing a false alarm. The discontinued switch is upwards of $200 now. I still have a port temp switch, no alarms, and the alarm system is functional. VRO still active but, in the process of finding the false alarm, they also disconnected the vacuum switch mounted above the VRO pump, stating it was redundant and unnecessary. It idles at almost 1000rpm, I believe it was closer to 700-800rpm before. I believe the starboard temp switch also has something to do with cold start fast idling. Could this be causing my fast idle? Do I really need to replace the starboard temp switch? Or should I just adjust the idle? Seems like it takes awhile to warm up and I can't always 'Hit It' without stalling the motor. Once I've opened it up for awhile I'm good to 'Hit It' from idle for my hole shot. I thought maybe the 50:1 tank or 2 of gas during the break-in process could've fouled my plugs so I'll check them. Should I check the timing too?
When I shift from forward to neutral now, it takes a second or 2 for the shift to happen. That worries me. I believe it should shift right away, not delay. I don't like the idea of a prop still spinning under power 1 or 2 seconds after I've shifted to neutral. Could this be lower unit issues? Fluid level? Or do I need to adjust the shift rod?
