**1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

[zarillus]

Need some help, this motor has had the plugs replaced, wires, carbs rebuilt, compression checked 100 101 100 100,gast tank cleaned, filter replaced, checked for restrictions. Not sure what the heck is going on on pulled the plugs and two of them look carbon fouled the other two look oil fouled.??

IMG 0774 - YouTube

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

If what you're complaining about is that slight hesitation at idle, that's normally caused by one (or more) carburetors running lean. Either the idle air bleed jet ID would be slightly too large (common problem) OR the gasket between the carburetor and intake manifold is faulty (unlikely).

You can check for a lean running carburetor by removing the faceplate cover and while the engine is running with that problem present, stick a couple fingers into the carburetor throat, acting as a manual choke. When the engine smooths out, you've found the offending carburetor.

If on the other hand, you're speaking of some different problem... what is it?

With the spark plugs removed, do you have spark that will jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame? Note that the 7/16" gap is important!

 

[pn]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

try decarbing with seafoam 50/50 with gas/oil. sprayed down each carb.

 

[zarillus]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Joe-
I think you are on to something with the idle air bleed if that is what I am thinking as well. Is that the jet that is behind the bowl drain plugs? It was missing when I rebuilt the carbs so I ordered news ones and installed them. However I cannot be sure that the carbs were original too this motor as they had a metal bowl on them and I think they may have been replaced from the original plastic ones. Not sure if this would matter or not

Is there not supposed to be a jet there or is this the area below the two soft plugs in the carb that you use a punch to remove?

I also think you are right on the money with one of the carbs running lean, is this because of the idle air bleed or something else. When I work the throttle it really bogs down like the motor is just not getting enough gas or running dry. This is evident in the second video below the first one.

I will have to get an open air gap tester to see if it jumps 7/16

If what you're complaining about is that slight hesitation at idle, that's normally caused by one (or more) carburetors running lean. Either the idle air bleed jet ID would be slightly too large (common problem) OR the gasket between the carburetor and intake manifold is faulty (unlikely).

You can check for a lean running carburetor by removing the faceplate cover and while the engine is running with that problem present, stick a couple fingers into the carburetor throat, acting as a manual choke. When the engine smooths out, you've found the offending carburetor.

If on the other hand, you're speaking of some different problem... what is it?

With the spark plugs removed, do you have spark that will jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame? Note that the 7/16" gap is important!

 

[zarillus]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Update -Checked spark and its great 7/16 however still running rough on idle or when working throttle acts like its not getting gas.When I put it in gear and run it seems too be fine.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Jets on that model..........

The two idle air bleed jets are screwed into the inside top area of the carburetor throats at an angle. These meter "air".

The two high speed jets are screwed into each side of the float chambers, in back of the drain plugs. They are seated close to the center of the float chamber. These meter fuel.

There are two intermediate jets that are screwed straight down into the float chamber, visible only when the carburetor is dismantled. These meter fuel.

 

[zarillus]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Okay so I have now verified a strong blue spark at 7/16 for each cylinder. I also verified the correct jets are installed in the carb. It's still running the same at idle and when I move the throttle it bogs down down like it needs more fuel. I did place my finger in the throat of the top carb and noticed it slightly changed the idle. So if these is the case it is running lean? If so why

Jets on that model..........

The two idle air bleed jets are screwed into the inside top area of the carburetor throats at an angle. These meter "air".

The two high speed jets are screwed into each side of the float chambers, in back of the drain plugs. They are seated close to the center of the float chamber. These meter fuel.

There are two intermediate jets that are screwed straight down into the float chamber, visible only when the carburetor is dismantled. These meter fuel.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

The carburetor jets are fouled. Your explanation of the problem indicates that the carburetors are not perfectly clean, nor are the jets.

I'm aware that you stated in your first post that the carburetors were rebuilt. Did you actually remove and clean the jets with a piece of single strand steel wire... solvent just doesn't do that job properly.

Another cause of having the engine bog down when thew throttle is applied is having the carburetor butterflies open too soon in relation to the timing (synchronization).

 

[zarillus]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Okay back to the drawing board,I am going to have to take it off again and clean the jets better.I did a once over on them with an old toothbrush real quick but did not not clean them thoroughly.I will report back when I get home from work tomorrow.

Appreciate it Joe!

The carburetor jets are fouled. Your explanation of the problem indicates that the carburetors are not perfectly clean, nor are the jets.

I'm aware that you stated in your first post that the carburetors were rebuilt. Did you actually remove and clean the jets with a piece of single strand steel wire... solvent just doesn't do that job properly.

Another cause of having the engine bog down when thew throttle is applied is having the carburetor butterflies open too soon in relation to the timing (synchronization).

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Follow Joe's suggestion about the jets. Your occasional miss at idle is probably a "lean sneeze" caused by a fuel restriction in the idle passages. During overhaul, all 3 types of jets need to be removed and visually inspected. Each fuel passage needs to be blown out with some type of aerosol carb cleaner, such as Gumout. You can compare the flow thru the carb passages: Best to spray one passage in one carb, noting the spray coming out of the other end of that passage. Then do the same passage on the next carb. Doing it that way will let you compare the flow out of each passage to insure one is not restricted. Once any dried fuel gelatin restricts a passage, you need a strong solvent to dissolve it. Most fuel cleaners/additives just won't work in this situation.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

After cleaning the carburetors and jets thoroughly, if that "sneezing" problem still exists at idle... find the offending carburetor by inserting a couple fingers into the carb throats, one by one. When the engine smooths out, you've found the offending carb. The cure in this case would be to change the idle air bleed jet to a "smaller" size to restrict the air flow which in turn causes more fuel to flow.

Changing the idle air bleed jets while on the boat is sort of a PITA but with patience, the change over is performed in a short time.

Manually cleaning the high speed jets should cure the hesitaion when applying throttle. Let us know what you find.

 

[zarillus]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Update : Pulled the carbs today and pulled all the jets out and I currently have them soaking in carb cleaner.A question I had though was after looking at the two jets in the aluminum bowl that are vertical I noticed one of them being a little chewed up like someone used too small of a screwdriver to try and get them out.The actual holes look good but just the top part of the jets look stripped.

Should I just order 4 new jets or should they work okay





QUOTE=Joe Reeves;4450558]After cleaning the carburetors and jets thoroughly, if that "sneezing" problem still exists at idle... find the offending carburetor by inserting a couple fingers into the carb throats, one by one. When the engine smooths out, you've found the offending carb. The cure in this case would be to change the idle air bleed jet to a "smaller" size to restrict the air flow which in turn causes more fuel to flow.

Changing the idle air bleed jets while on the boat is sort of a PITA but with patience, the change over is performed in a short time.

Manually cleaning the high speed jets should cure the hesitaion when applying throttle. Let us know what you find.[/QUOTE]

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Not unusual to strip part of the jet. Sometimes those buggers are difficult to get out. If you can look thru the jet and it's open completely, when compared to the other similar jets, you can use it. (you said the hole appears open) Perhaps you can remove any burrs prior to re-installation. If you still concerned, replace just that one.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Jet Removal/Installer Tool:

1 - Pick up a screwdriver whereas the shank of it fits perfectly into the threaded hole that the jet is seated in.
2 - Cut the business end off of the screwdriver shank.
3 - File the end of the screwdriver shank so that it fits the jet perfectly such as what you see here.

 

[zarillus]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Cleaned the carbs and jets extensively shiny brass now and verified all correct jets were installed and float level set correctly.I fired it up and she was still having a lean sneeze at idle and almost seemed like I could not even turn the idle down or it would die. It will run for probably 10 seconds and then act like its running out of gas then pick up again and she's really smoky as well and way more than usual. I pulled the plugs and they were covered in black soot. Wouldn't that indicate a rich condition? Also when I start advancing the throttle it will run good for maybe 10 seconds again and then bog out then pick up again just like at idle.

Not sure what I am doing wrong here or what I am missing

Not unusual to strip part of the jet. Sometimes those buggers are difficult to get out. If you can look thru the jet and it's open completely, when compared to the other similar jets, you can use it. (you said the hole appears open) Perhaps you can remove any burrs prior to re-installation. If you still concerned, replace just that one.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

Ill assume you tried adjusting before all of this? What is your static setting?

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

What happens if you constantly prime the fuel hose bulb? Are you running the original factory VRO fuel pump?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

As a VRO test, you might try...............

Plug the oil line at the main connector at the hood pan. Disconnect the fuel line at the hood pan OR at the VRO.

With a separate fuel tank containing a 50/1 fuel/oil mixture, connect its fuel line to either the fuel hood pan connector or the VRO, whichever it is to be attached.

Drain the carburetors, then refill them with the 50/1 mixture by pumping the fuel primer bulb of the separate test tank.

Does this make a difference? You may need to pump the fuel primer bulb of the test tank as "emdsapmgr" suggests (acting as a manual fuel pump) and if so, does this action make a difference? Don't forget to do the finger test within each of the carburetor throats to see if that fuel enrichment scenario clears up the "sneezing" condition. Let us know what you find.

 

[zarillus]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

So let me explain my setup as I have always wondered if this may cause problems.I am running a fuel tank in the bow which is an old tempo plastic tank around 15 gallons.The fuel tank line runs from the tank to a water fuel separator then to the motor.The vro is brand new however I am really now wondering if that fuel pump is meant to pump fuel all the way from the bow through a water separator then too motor.Also my primer bulb has never gotten really that hard kind of squishy which was always weird to me.Is my setup causing this issue.I will take some pics tomorrow and try Jim's vro test just too be sure.I don't know how y'all do this stuff it's just so damn frustrating!






QUOTE=Joe Reeves;4452419]As a VRO test, you might try...............

Plug the oil line at the main connector at the hood pan. Disconnect the fuel line at the hood pan OR at the VRO.

With a separate fuel tank containing a 50/1 fuel/oil mixture, connect its fuel line to either the fuel hood pan connector or the VRO, whichever it is to be attached.

Drain the carburetors, then refill them with the 50/1 mixture by pumping the fuel primer bulb of the separate test tank.

Does this make a difference? You may need to pump the fuel primer bulb of the test tank as "emdsapmgr" suggests (acting as a manual fuel pump) and if so, does this action make a difference? Don't forget to do the finger test within each of the carburetor throats to see if that fuel enrichment scenario clears up the "sneezing" condition. Let us know what you find.[/QUOTE]

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: **1989 Evinrude 110Hp Running Like Crud Video inserted ..........

The fuel primer bulb will get hard-when you first prime it each day, prior to cold starting the engine. Once the engine is running and it begins to suck fuel through the line, the bulb will soften-but it should not collapse. That's normal. That engine was never made to suck fuel through a fuel water separator. That does not mean it won't- but it's worth testing. Bypass the water separator filter and see if it makes a difference. That engine should have a recirculation system on the front of the intake manifold. Double check to see that those small hoses are not leaking-it can affect idling somewhat.