1989 Bayliner Trophy OMC 5.8L - Help with new boat

[LakeMichiganBoater]

I recently purchased a 1989 Bayliner Trophy with a OMC 5.8L stern drive (Model # 584APRMED) and a cobra outdrive. It does not currently run, but most likely due to sitting from previous owner not fixing the common shifting issue (sat for a year or so now, maybe two). I have read up on fixing the shifting issue and I am pretty confident on that, only question is once I fix all the shift linkages what else should I be checking for damage? Is there gears in the outdrive that could have been damaged?

Need some help with the following?
-Best battery size that will fit in the standard mount location?
-What size freeze plugs, two are missing (I plan to check for cracks in the block also)
-Best manual for this motor? Clymer or Seloc are the only ones I am seeing for sale.

My game plan is to remove the outdrive, fix the linkages and inspect the outdrive. What else should I be inspecting and replacing while I am in there?

As for the engine, I plan to pull all plugs, check compression, and clean the carburetor, then force water through the block from the outdrive water line to look for leaks. Anything else I should be checking on the engine?

I am very mechanically inclined and not very worried about the engine. If I have to pull it and do a rebuild, that is not the end of the world.

I am sure I will have more questions as I start taking it apart, but wanted to get advice from people on this forum for what to check. I don't plan on putting it in the water until everything is good to go.

Thanks in advance!

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Also if anyone knows the spark plugs size for this engine I would like to grab some to replace the ones in there.

Thanks

 

[dubs283]

You've got a lot of work ahead of you. A majority of omc parts are nla and the only oem parts available are from the used market

With two casting plugs being pushed out I'd say the chances of a cracked block are good. Maybe you got lucky, ford blocks seem to fair better from non winterization than gm. No guarantees, just my experience. Fortunately ford long blocks can still be found through salvage yards, etc. Just need to add the proper bits to ensure it'll handle marine use

Plug type as a WAG would be autolite 124, .035" gap

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Yeah that was my thought with the freeze plugs missing... Going to check that out.

Any advice on what else I should be checking out on the outdrive?

 

[Lou C]

Do a search on my user name I have posted a few times, how to set up the Cobra shift linkage.
First make sure it is full of gear oil, remove the top cap, inspect the upper gears.
Then while someone else turns the driveshaft clockwise, use the shifter rod that goes into the lower gear unit, to shift from fwd, to neutral, to rev. If the upper gears look good it was full of oil and it shifts fwd--neutral--rev, then that's as much as you can determine short of a pressure and vacuum test.
the shift linkage adjustment starts with the drive off, measure shift rod height.
then with it disconnected at both ends measure the drag of the transom shift cable with a fish scale
next make sure the shifter bell crank in the pivot housing is moving freely and well lubed with triple guard grease
then adjust the cable with the bellcrank holder tool and the cable adjustment tool up on the engine end
install drive
then adjust remote cable

these are just the most basic and general parts of the procedure, find my posts on it for more information
I highly recommend the 3 special OMC tools for adjustment and a factory shop manual
If you get it right it will shift with 2 fingers in and out of gear. Easy shifting with a solid THUNK into gear, and just easily slip into neutral.
Other things that must be right: ESA system and engine idle speed

 

[Scott Danforth]

-Best manual for this motor?

Factory manual

get it here https://www.outboardbooks.com/

clymer and haynes and chilton manuals make terrible toilet paper. you can prop the couch up with them and use them as knee pads. however the information in them is wrong.

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Factory manual

get it here https://www.outboardbooks.com/

clymer and haynes and chilton manuals make terrible toilet paper. you can prop the couch up with them and use them as knee pads. however the information in them is wrong.

Already ordered the Hayes... I see what you mean. Doesn't look like that place has a manual for my motor.

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Went through the motor and pulled the outdrive, the boat is currently about an hour away in storage, so this will give me time to work on it. The shift linkage between the outdrive looked pretty corroded but cleaned up and moved freely with the outdrive removed. Was able to get the engine running after new plugs and breaking it free with a breaker bar on the Harmonic Balancer. Seems to run good, but pulled the carb to rebuild it also.

Plugged the two freeze plugs I saw and injected water through the removed outdrive water fitting and only issue I noticed with the engine was a third freeze plug missing... behind a motor mount. Any easy way to get that replaced? Doesn't seem like I can get to it

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

View attachment DSC02546.jpg

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

View attachment DSC02555.jpg

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

View attachment DSC02547.jpg

Freeze plug opening is behind this mount. Any easy way to get to it?

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

I also had a hydraulic line burst while testing the trim tabs. How would I go about replacing the hydraulic line on the starboard side trim tab? it burst outside the boat about 2" from the hydraulic cylinder, pink fluid came out. Looks like fuel line to me, but not sure if regular fuel line is rated for that much pressure.

Picture of the spot where it burst:

View attachment DSC02510 - Trim Tab.jpg

 

[Scott Danforth]

Already ordered the Hayes... I see what you mean. Doesn't look like that place has a manual for my motor.

Since every factory manual was printed by Ken Cook company, they are the only source of factory manuals. If it's OMC, that is where you get the manual

 

[Bondo]

View attachment 382429

Freeze plug opening is behind this mount. Any easy way to get to it?

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... Pull the motor,..... you can change out the trim tab line at that time as well,....

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... Pull the motor,..... you can change out the trim tab line at that time as well,....

The motor has to come completely out to install the freeze plug behind the motor mount?

What line is used for the trim tab?

 

[Lou C]

The only way I can see of doing it MAYBE is to support the engine from above using the lifting eye on the starboard side of the engine (you can see it in the pic) and lift it just enough to take the weight off the mounts and remove the mount. But, that is risky to say the least and I'm not sure anyone can tell you if you'd have enough room even after removing the engine mount.

 

[Lou C]

PS you might consider posting this up on the bayliner owers' board, someone there may have the same boat, might know better.
www.baylinerownersclub.org

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Thanks, Ill post there also, just thought it was more specific to the engine than the boat.

Does anyone know how the motor mount disconnects from the engine? I can see how it disconnects from the boat, but I would have to remove it from the engine to get to the freeze plug and I cant see how it is attached to the block.

Right now I am coming up with a plan to hoist the engine up slightly on that side to remove the motor mount. Just don't think a standard engine hoist can get tall enough to reach the motor over the transom so may have to build an overhead hoist or something similar.

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

I have the lower unit apart and in my garage and the next question I have is how deep should I go into the lower unit?

I drained the fluid, which looked good, no major metal, but the drain and fill plugs did have some very small slight metal shaving on it (magnetic I believe). The upper gears look fine, but if the previous owner had shifting issues I fear there may be damage to the dogs/forward/reverse gear in the lower unit.

Its $300 in tools to pull those out (bearing carrier puller, long open ended wrench, spline holder tool). Are these lower gears typically problematic? or it its spinning freely should I just leave it?

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Can anyone point me in the right direction for the proper gear oil to use in the lower and the method for filling?

I have pulled the lower bearing carrier out and it looks good, now just waiting on the long snap ring plier to arrive to I can inspect the forward and reverse gears.