1989 70 hp evinrude won't crank

[cecilp]

have a 1989 70 hp evinrude that worked great last time out. drove boat on trailer and drove 50 miles home and parked. 5 weeks later went to start motor and NOTHING happened. Battery shows 12,89 volts, rem,oved battery cable ends ( trimmed and re-stripped ends and cleaned battery connections ). re-moved ground at engine and put in new grounding bolt ( old point did have rust ). getting 12.6 volts at bottom of solenoid top ground. Tilt/trim works fine. Wire from starter switch ohms good ( even ran a wire from switch to main wire connection at motor ( found a pinched wire from male plug connector block). starter is good as I can bypass solenoid and crank engine. Have not jumped solenoid yet. also of note, there is 12.6 volt on terminal block where red wire connects. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!!!

 

[Faztbullet]

Is control box in neutral?

 

[Sam2001]

It might be your solenoid ?
Attach a positive battery jumper to terminal © and a
negative battery jumper to terminal @. The solenoid should
close with an audible click.

 

[Crosbyman]

did you mean D ???

sinc A would be solid bat +12 and B the selenoid output to the starter when coil voltage is applied on C &....D

 

[racerone]

Battery voltage is applied to one of the 2 small terminals either C or D.------And one of the small terminals goes to ground.

 

[Sam2001]

It showed up like the @ symbol on here but it's suppose to be terminal "D" Thanks for catching that

 

[webbd]

It might be your solenoid ?
Attach a positive battery jumper to terminal © and a
negative battery jumper to terminal @. The solenoid should
close with an audible click.
View attachment 331974

I'm not as familiar with the OMC solenoids, but on mine, I take a screwdriver and jump across from A to C when I want to turn the engine over using the starter. D on a Ford solenoid is 12V to the points, bypassing the resistor so it gets a hotter spark during start. Mine has CDI, so no D terminal.

- DW

 

[cecilp]

Battery voltage is applied to one of the 2 small terminals either C or D.------And one of the small terminals goes to ground.

just discovered that there is no power at primer solenoid either. the switch ohms good there is continuity when pushed sand turned and open in start position. switch ohms as it should at each terminal. there is volts at bottom of solenoid terminal to ground also. Seems like I had this problem when I bought this boat 4 years ago but I cannot remember what the problem was but it wasn't a big or expensive issue!!!!!!

 

[Sam2001]

You might want to get your battery checked , even though its showing 12 + volts it might have a bad cell ? Any auto parts store will do this for free. Also check to see if your getting the spark to jump a 1/2" with an open air tester.

 

[cecilp]

You might want to get your battery checked , even though its showing 12 + volts it might have a bad cell ? Any auto parts store will do this for free. Also check to see if your getting the spark to jump a 1/2" with an open air tester.

am not getting a spark it won't crank over

 

[racerone]

Checked the fuse ?

 

[cecilp]

Checked the fuse ?

good put a new one in anyway

 

[cecilp]

Is control box in neutral?

motor is off boat but did the same thing on boat

 

[cecilp]

You might want to get your battery checked , even though its showing 12 + volts it might have a bad cell ? Any auto parts store will do this for free. Also check to see if your getting the spark to jump a 1/2" with an open air tester.

put it on a new battery. tried everthing except replacing solenoid. got one ordered

 

[Crosbyman]

the fact that you have 2 symptoms (no sparks... no start) would indicate it would be a very bad lucky situation to have a bad selenoid.

selenoids are simple devices with a single internal coil to magnetically close the starter circuit .

the control wire should show 12v while in START mode while the other side is grounded either internally or by a wire direct to ground or via a safety switch

the selenoid should click

I suspect you have no 12v feeding the relay since the same12v is missing on the ignition circuitry (no spark)

before spending to much money on selenoids you should try to hunt down the missing 12v
you can test the selenoid operation by directly applying a fresh 12v on the + control post

btw make certain +12v is reaching you key B+ post and the key is internally transferring +12 to the ignition, choke and start posistions

another issue is improprer ground of the engine frame itself. you could have all the 12v in the world with nowhere to go if the engine and grounded components are not "grounded" to return the current flow back to the battery NEG post .
inspect all battery cables connections for oxidation or bad crimps . Clean up all connections. battery end and engine end

you could also test by having a buddy holding the key on START and poke around by bending accessible wires, tapping around to detect any loose or internally broken/oxidzed wires. turn the engine side to side while in start mode.

Intermittent problems area pain Hard dead is usually much simpler

 

[racerone]

Sorry----12 volts from the battery is NOT needed to make spark.------Spark comes from the magneto if the starter turns the flywheel at 250 RPM.---Or the motor can be started with a rope if battery is completely dead !!!

 

[Crosbyman]

great .. getting more difficult to get diagrams with Adobe flash player now R.I.P. thanks for info.

o.p. mentionned NO spark when jumpering the selenoid .. odd that it is not sparking and selenoid is not working. testing and tracing seems in order.

"starter is good as I can bypass solenoid and crank engine"

 

[Sam2001]

Possibly look into the emergency cut off switch on the remote control ?
Diagram (1)
This is the RED connector at your engine
1. Install the cutoff switch cap and lanyard.
2. Use a continuity light or ohmmeter calibrated on high ohms
scale to test continuity.
3. Turn the key to the ON position.
\] 4. Connect meter as shown.
• Meter must show no continuity.

~Diagram(2) 5. Remove the cutoff switch cap and lanyard.
• Meter must show continuity.
6. Test cutoff switch and wiring if your test results vary.

 

[cecilp]

the fact that you have 2 symptoms (no sparks... no start) would indicate it would be a very bad lucky situation to have a bad selenoid.

selenoids are simple devices with a single internal coil to magnetically close the starter circuit .

the control wire should show 12v while in START mode while the other side is grounded either internally or by a wire direct to ground or via a safety switch

the selenoid should click

I suspect you have no 12v feeding the relay since the same12v is missing on the ignition circuitry (no spark)

before spending to much money on selenoids you should try to hunt down the missing 12v
you can test the selenoid operation by directly applying a fresh 12v on the + control post

btw make certain +12v is reaching you key B+ post and the key is internally transferring +12 to the ignition, choke and start posistions

another issue is improprer ground of the engine frame itself. you could have all the 12v in the world with nowhere to go if the engine and grounded components are not "grounded" to return the current flow back to the battery NEG post .
inspect all battery cables connections for oxidation or bad crimps . Clean up all connections. battery end and engine end

you could also test by having a buddy holding the key on START and poke around by bending accessible wires, tapping around to detect any loose or internally broken/oxidzed wires. turn the engine side to side while in start mode.

Intermittent problems area pain Hard dead is usually much harder

the fact that you have 2 symptoms (no sparks... no start) would indicate it would be a very bad lucky situation to have a bad selenoid.

selenoids are simple devices with a single internal coil to magnetically close the starter circuit .

the control wire should show 12v while in START mode while the other side is grounded either internally or by a wire direct to ground or via a safety switch

the selenoid should click

I suspect you have no 12v feeding the relay since the same12v is missing on the ignition circuitry (no spark)

before spending to much money on selenoids you should try to hunt down the missing 12v
you can test the selenoid operation by directly applying a fresh 12v on the + control post

btw make certain +12v is reaching you key B+ post and the key is internally transferring +12 to the ignition, choke and start posistions

another issue is improprer ground of the engine frame itself. you could have all the 12v in the world with nowhere to go if the engine and grounded components are not "grounded" to return the current flow back to the battery NEG post .
inspect all battery cables connections for oxidation or bad crimps . Clean up all connections. battery end and engine end

you could also test by having a buddy holding the key on START and poke around by bending accessible wires, tapping around to detect any loose or internally broken/oxidzed wires. turn the engine side to side while in start mode.

Intermittent problems area pain Hard dead is usually much simpler

I cannot help but agree. I REALLY think it is a grounding issue but where. I removed a bolt from the motor side panel and put a new bolt in and am using as a grounding source but still no help. As stated before had the same issue when I bought the rig a few years back and I want to think that repair shop found and corrected a grounding issue. I have removed wires from switch and all post function and read as they are suppose to. As mentioned I did find a pinched wire on red wire from solenoid to motor terminal switch ( fused wire but fuse has been done away with ) but I get 12 volts on that wire. I get 12 volt into solenoid anChecking other points (like primer solenoid ) today . Will let you know what happens. I have a shop manual on the motor ( just got it today ). thanks

 

[racerone]

Are you saying the 20 amp fuse is no longer on the motor ?