1989 60 hp evinrude. Simulate water

[bcj.jones]

Is running a motor in a trash can the best I can do to Simulate water condition?

I have a 60 horse with the common problem if running fine on muffs but dies in the water. Won't hardly idle or anything. Will run all day on muffs though. Got 120 psi compression, good spark with new plugs. I know it's fuel related because with the primer manually engaged it'l run a little better. It'l even run for a few seconds great if I flood the motor once it gets through the excess fuel. Im rebuilding the carbs right now. I'd like to test it the best I can before taking it back out

 

[F_R]

Better than nothing, but not much.

 

[boobie]

Take it back to the lake. Only true test.

 

[Stumpalump]

It should run right in a barrel or on muffs. Your carb rebuild will pay off.

 

[oldboat1]

... good spark with new plugs....

Need to test/measure spark with a tester, to check ignition output (plugs out). Maybe you have done that -- something that can be done in the driveway.

 

[bcj.jones]

You read my mind! I bought a spark plug tester today and was about to get on about and ask how far to set the gap on the tester?

 

[hardwater fisherman]

I have older motors but probably 7/16" would be correct I think.

 

[bcj.jones]

I checked spark before I took it out initially and I had spark but I didn' test the strength. How far should I set the gap on the tester?

 

[boobie]

7/16" air gap on spark tester.

 

[rothfm]

I use a barrel for flushing for a couple reasons...Obviously puts some backpressure on the system, which simulates bieng submerged in the lake etc. Plus, I like the barrel because I can HEAR better how the motor sounds. On muffs its so loud I cannot hear if its running properly. You may miss sounds that are important to diagnosing.

Another thing I can do in the barrel is put in Salt-Away or other cleaners in the water. Works well.

 

[bcj.jones]

Had a very strong spark. Cleared 7/16th gap no problem. Strong blue spark. I'm confident now that cleaning the carbs will be the cure. Timing is spot on as well.

Another question though. Does the primer only get power when cranking the motor? Or should there be power supplied to it as soon as I push it the key in to prime the motor? Seems like I'm only getting power to the primer when cranking the motor. If I'm understanding it correctly, I should get power to a primer without having to crank the motor

 

[racerone]

With the key in the " on " position and pushed in the primer valve should be open.-------Note---The primer is NOT a pump it is merely a valve.

 

[F_R]

If the primer works when pushed in while cranking, but not when merely "on" and pushed in, the key switch is probably bad. Not really a big deal, except you won't be able to "bump" the primer to keep it running right after a cold start.

 

[Bosunsmate]

id do a droptest on each cylinder too, it may of worn an upper or lower seal meaning not enough fuel is getting dragged into a cylinder

 

[rebuilt]

I was looking for an answer for a newly acquired '84 90 hp when I ran across your post. I too have an '89 60hp. A J60TLCEA. I went around and around with this engine until I finally got serious about the carbs. The VRO went in the waste can first. I premix. I bought and installed 3 OE carb kits, yep, real J/E BRP parts. I completely disassembled those carbs including the press in plugs, excluding the lead shot ones. I put them through 3 separate ultra sonic cleaner baths, with compressed air blowouts between each bath. They were surgically clean when reassembled. Pay special attention to the bowl orifices, especially on the bottom carb. That's where the majority of goop ends up.A helpful tip for cleaning the tiny tube in the main jet and low speed jet. Remember the old style telephone 3 wire line that houses used to be wired with? The individual wires are solid copper when stripped and just the right size to push up through those tiny tubes without harming the brass itself. Works like a charm. The low speed screws were set to 2 3/4 turns out from lightly seated. I live at sea level, that's what worked here. The old 89 runs just fine since that carb job, with no issues at all. Good luck with yours. Mine has been a solid engine since the dirty carbs were corrected.