1988 sylvan with bad transom

Boatnbilly

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Jun 8, 2017
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6
Hello everyone! Im new to the site. I'm attempting to repair an old aluminum sylvan fishing/ski boat for my family. I need to replace the transom inside the alumnum hull. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thank you!
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
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2,679
:welcome: to the best place on the web for everything boats.

I don't know how close to your Sylvan it is, but in my sig line is a link to my Starcraft transom replacement thread. There should be some useful information in it.
 

Boatnbilly

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Jun 8, 2017
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6
Thank you that is really helpful. Do you know where i can pick up replacement transom board?
 

Tnstratofam

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Aug 18, 2013
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Most of us use exterior grade plywood from Lowes, Home Depot, or Menards. You want exterior grade because it has waterproof glue. Then seal it with either epoxy, eurothane spar varnish, or woodonglass's Old Timers Forrmula. You can do a forum search for the old timers formula I can't remember the exact formula.

You can use marine grade for ultimate protection, but don't use any pressure treated wood anywhere as the chemicals in the wood can leach out and corrode the alluminum hull.

Oh and we like lots of pictures. They help us see what you're working on and help us better advise you on repairs.
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
I redid a sylvan tiller fishing boat, construction of the transom is probably similar. It wasn't too hard to redo the transom. Post some pictures and ask some questions.
 

Boatnbilly

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Jun 8, 2017
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Awesome! I really appreciate the input! This was a free boat and I'm hoping it turns into a great opportunity to get my family out on the lake. I will post pics tomorrow.
 

Boatnbilly

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Jun 8, 2017
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No Title

Here are some pics of the boat. any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2014
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189
If you search the forums, there are plans for making a nice engine stand. I would start with that and pulling the engine. After that, you'll need to start disassembling the transom from the inside. Remove the splash well and see what's underneath. You will need to remove any bolts or tubes that go through it. Be very careful when you remove the aluminum transom trim cap, they are not easy to get replacements. The pop rivits can be drilled out and replaced after the transom is replaced. Get several 3/16" bits because they like to break.
 

Boatnbilly

Cadet
Joined
Jun 8, 2017
Messages
6
If you search the forums, there are plans for making a nice engine stand. I would start with that and pulling the engine. After that, you'll need to start disassembling the transom from the inside. Remove the splash well and see what's underneath. You will need to remove any bolts or tubes that go through it. Be very careful when you remove the aluminum transom trim cap, they are not easy to get replacements. The pop rivits can be drilled out and replaced after the transom is replaced. Get several 3/16" bits because they like to break.

Thank you for the help! Do you know what type rivits these boats Use? Are they a standard type I can replace easily?
 

someone11

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
296
Thank you for the help! Do you know what type rivits these boats Use? Are they a standard type I can replace easily?


Theyre gonna be solid rivets. They can be replaced with solid rivets but you'll need the tools to do it. Or you can use closed end blind rivets.
 

garbageguy

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
1,643
That's a good little boat, we had one that served us well - you've come to the right place for help. Keep those pics coming
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
In my Sylvan, all the rivits that held the splashwell,
deck, stringers, livewell, etc were just pop rivits. All the rivits that went through the hull were solid rivits. I replaced all the inside rivits with 3/16 aluminum rivits of varying lengths. If I didn't want water to get in them I would either put a dab of 3m 5200 or dribble some epoxy in the top. I didn't have to remove any of the solid rivits to get the transom out. I would suggest closed end blind rivits, so you don't have to worry about them leaking water into compartments etc.
 
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