1988 johnson v6 vro info

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Greg,
I'll get that pick over later today of the exhaust port. Ended up pulling out some work last night. And get the feeze plug scratched out better.
Thanks for all the help and componet comments.
KC

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Having tr0uble lgging int my em acc0unt. I spilled c0ffee n the keyb0ards this m0rning and I l0st the letter "0". But zer0 gets me sme things d0ne. I t00k the pics will send asap as all is cleaned up. N0w I have t0 get the engine tilted pr0perly s0 I can get it 0n the stand I build.

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Tried to send but went off the charts for some reason. Here it is again.

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

next;

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Now, How to get my tilt to work so I can set her on the stand I'm building tomorrow.?

 

[Greg_E]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

The exhaust port is is what I expect to see on a 1986 or 1987 engine. I think it's safe to say that is what you have. If there are no markings on the plug we aren't going to know exactly what model you have, but I don't think that will be a big deal.

The trim and tilt motor has two wires blue, and green in a plastic sleeve that goes into the engine compartment. There is a two pin connector with spade type lugs. You can connect jumper wires to those two terminals. Touch the other ends to a battery + and - it will drive in one direction. reverse the wires and touch them to the battery and it will drive the other direction. For safety, you should put a fuse in the circuit. If you accidentally shorted the two wires together it wouldn't be good . A dead short across the battery will make those wires red hot very fast. Also make sure there are no gas fumes. Your probably going to get a few sparks when you touch the jumper leads to the battery. The motor draws a fair amount of current.

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Greg,
You are the Bomb Diggity of Johnson VRO. Now I'll be heading out to get some lumber and put her up on the stand.
TX, KC

 

[Greg_E]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Just a guy like you trying to keep his old engines running. There's a few guys on here that have probably forgotten more than I'll ever know about these engines.

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Hey, Yo!! Noway I forgot you J K Bisson! Both of you guys made what could have been a nightmare so much easier to work with. What I said to Greg goes to you too!
Just spent @ 8 hrs working on the motor stand. I should be done by tomorrow. I'll shoot over pics after I get her on the frame. She is a little piggy to support properly. Weather is breaking too so now after that I can start to finish my glass, transom, stringers and deck.
TX.
Kevin

 

[Greg_E]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Sent you a PM.

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Maybe we should start a thread/column/category just for Johnson VRO's? You are right, there is alot of info falling away into the cracks.
I'll take the oldies to the new computer tech stuff anyday. Like my first car, you could see the ground through the engine and work on it, now you have to hire a tech to fix it because it's so darn computerised and circuit boarded.

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

The system is so slow right now. I tried to access but nothing there yet. yap at you soon as I get it. You can always just em me too, although Aol is not very fast either, but free.
TX!

 

[Greg_E]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

I got your pictures of the engine on the stand you made. Looks good!

I found some info in my notes that might help ID whether that is a 1986 or 1987.

The 1986 carbs had a larger bore than the 1987. That caused a problem on some engines that sat low in the water causing higher exhaust back pressure. The solution was to change the carbs to 1987 carbs with a smaller bore diameter. The 1987 carb P/N was 398393, ID1537.

The main jet and idle air bleed orifices on the '86 were : main jet 65D, intermediate air bleed orifice 14M, low speed orifice 20M

The main jet and idle air bleed orifices on the '87 were : main jet 62D, intermediate air bleed orifice 14M, low speed orifice 48M

You can thank Clanton for that info.

With the air silencer removed, you should be able to to read the numbers stamped on the air bleed orifices. They are the two small brass fittings with a hole in the center. that screw into the face of the carb. You have to remove the large brass screw on the carb bowl to see the main jet.

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

Good info! I still need to modify the engine stand but it was fun to build and put that little piggy into it finally. I'll dig into the info you just sent during the week, looks like some very good weather. I also did order the manual for the 87'.
kc

 

[kcassells]

Re: 1988 johnson v6 vro info

I got your pictures of the engine on the stand you made. Looks good!

I found some info in my notes that might help ID whether that is a 1986 or 1987.

The 1986 carbs had a larger bore than the 1987. That caused a problem on some engines that sat low in the water causing higher exhaust back pressure. The solution was to change the carbs to 1987 carbs with a smaller bore diameter. The 1987 carb P/N was 398393, ID1537.

The main jet and idle air bleed orifices on the '86 were : main jet 65D, intermediate air bleed orifice 14M, low speed orifice 20M

The main jet and idle air bleed orifices on the '87 were : main jet 62D, intermediate air bleed orifice 14M, low speed orifice 48M

You can thank Clanton for that info.

With the air silencer removed, you should be able to to read the numbers stamped on the air bleed orifices. They are the two small brass fittings with a hole in the center. that screw into the face of the carb. You have to remove the large brass screw on the carb bowl to see the main jet.

Frankenstein still lives and is more confusing than ever.

 

[kcassells]

This what im finding from prior iboats posting.
Standing in back of the engine facing the spark plugs, the cylinders are read as follows:

2.....1

4.....3

1 & 3 = Starboard bank............ 2 & 4 = Port Bank.

 

[kcassells]

Geez,
Finally, was able to get to this. Gosh darn got the flywheel pulled off and it was a battle. Beauty and the beast.....at least confirmed. Thanks to my neighbor Pete doing a holdback and push.
Pin was sheard. I was so looking for that to be part of the problem of not being able to get my idle down.
Take a look at pics and let me know if you see anything out of sorts. Still want to do the DVA testing while I'm in here. Too dark out to review strator/timing wheel tonight.





What a good find and day!

 

[kcassells]

Hey yo... posted in the wrong listing. Moved it to my current thread.
scootch