1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

[cotaone]

I apologize in advance if I'm asking something that's already been asked and answered. I'm new here, but I've read enough threads in the forums to know that you guys support each other and try to help each other find answers, so here goes. I have a 1988 Johnson 120 VRO. I had tried to crank it a few weeks ago, and it wouldn't turn over. I'm no mechanic, so I took it to one who showed me the short 20A fuse had blown. Empowered with that knowledge, I knew that if I had a like situation again, I had the know-how to fix it. Wrong! Same problem again, turn the key, and nothing. I put a new 20A fuse in the fuse holder, and with a smile on my face, turned the key. Quickly the smile turned to bewilderment when nothing happened. So I need to turn to you for help on this one. Any Ideas? And thanks in advance for whatever ideas you might come up with.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

my mistake. you can't answer your own thread. sorry

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

The first time that the short 20 amp main fuse blew, when I turned on the key, my gas gauge didn't work, and the tilt trim buttons on the starboard side of my motor didn't either. Only the tilt trim on my console worked. This time the gas gauge works, and so does the tilt trim on my motor. So I looked under the console and found a 6 amp fuse connected to the key switch, and it wasn't blown, but I put in a new one anyway. So now I have a new main 20 amp fuse at the solenoid and a new 6 amp fuse under the dash, when I turn the key to "on" I can switch on things like the boat lights that run off a switch, and all other electricals seem to work ok, but when I try to start the engine, still nothing. Any help you can give me or some kind of direction to look in will be really appreciated. Thanks

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

The 20 ampere fuse at the engine provide 12 volts directly to the "B" (Battery) terminal of the ignition switch. I assume that you have double checked the fuse to make sure it hasn't blown again? If not, do so.

The OMC control box or whatever type control you might have on a console..... it contains a safety switch which prevents the starter circuit from engaging if the engine is in gear. This safety switch at times needs a slight adjustment (Loosen and slide closer towards the cam) to function properly BUT even if slightly out of adjustment, it can usually be made to work if one jiggles the throttle handle about somewhat.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Thank you Joe. I did check the fuse and it is ok. The safety switch you mentioned, I will check that and re-adjust if needed, but could that have caused the main fuse to blow in the first place?

 

[kryptonite850]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

I am fairly new to outboards and have my own problems with a 1988 Evinrude 120, but when I read your post a few things came to mind for troubleshooting your issue.

Take a test light or voltage tester and ground the black from the tester on a bolt or ground lead. Place the testers positive red lead on the positive post of your starter and have someone "crank" the ignition. See if you're getting power to the starter this way. That will rule out or confirm your starter as an issue.

If there is power to the starter when "cranking", then it could be a bad starter or low power to the start. If you used a voltage meter it would answer the low power question.

Check the ground and positive connections for your starter. Make sure they're clean and the wires are in good shape. Trace the wires from the starter as far as you can and check all connections and wires to make sure the connections are clean and the wires are in good shape.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

I checked and verified that the motor is not in gear. The prop turns freely clockwise and counterclockwise. I then did as you suggested and checked my throttle. My boat is a 1988 bayliner trophy 21 ft. center console, so the throttle is in a chrome plated half circular housing secured to the dash by 4 screws. The tilt trim is a separate toggle switch not attached to the throttle. The throttle handle will pull outwards to the right only when in neutral so you can rev the engine in neutral. I tried jiggling the throttle while trying to turn the engine over, but still nothing happened. I thought I heard the solenoid click once but I may have been mistaken. The electricals still work with the key "on", and I know the 20 amp main fuse is ok, so I'm sure I'm missing something. Is there anything else I can do to run down the problem? Thanks in advance.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Thank you Kryptonite, I will do the voltage test as you suggested. but if the volt meter shows that there's no power getting to the starter, should I also check the solenoid since it's connected to the starter? And if I can jump the starter with a jumper cable and it spins, then should I jump the solenoid to see if it will spin the starter? Just wanna have a plan B.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

I just thought of something else. Is is possible that the problem could be at the key switch end? As Joe Reeves mentioned earlier, there is a wire that runs from the +battery terminal to the key switch. Is it a common problem that wires corrode or the connectors need replacing on the back of the key switch?

 

[kryptonite850]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Thank you Kryptonite, I will do the voltage test as you suggested. but if the volt meter shows that there's no power getting to the starter, should I also check the solenoid since it's connected to the starter? And if I can jump the starter with a jumper cable and it spins, then should I jump the solenoid to see if it will spin the starter? Just wanna have a plan B.

Your theory is sound. I've done that with car engines before, but never an outboard. Hopefully you will get a reply to that question from someone with experience doing it so you know if it is safe or not. I will look at the Seloc manual when I get home from work to see what the test procedure is for the starter solenoid.

 

[kryptonite850]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

I just thought of something else. Is is possible that the problem could be at the key switch end? As Joe Reeves mentioned earlier, there is a wire that runs from the +battery terminal to the key switch. Is it a common problem that wires corrode or the connectors need replacing on the back of the key switch?

This is from the Seloc manual...

Testing Starter Solenoid...

a- Remove the heavy starter cable at the starter (shows the positive cable). Connect a voltmeter to the positive lead on the solenoid that comes from the key switch. Ground the other voltmeter wire. Turn the key to the START position. The voltmeter should indicate 12 volts. If voltage is not present in this test, then the key switch is defective, or the wire is broken between the key switch and the start solenoid.

The rest of the manual goes on with a diagram that I can't post right now, but in essence they have you jumping hot to the other pin that the holds the out portion of the feed from the key switch. So, yes... what you're proposing is spelled out in the Seloc manual.

I should note that the Seloc's test is more in depth than what you are going to try and it even says in there that one portion of the test may fix a solenoid problem as a result of conducting the test.

Give it a try if you want. Also, I would suggest picking up a Seloc manual for your motor. Especially if you intend on keeping the motor for awhile.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Kryptonite, Thanks so much for taking the trouble to look up all that info for me. Couple of questions to just to make sure I understand. When you put the voltmeter to the lead on the solenoid that comes from the keyswitch, does it happen to say what color the lead is? Wanna make sure on this. Also, Can you tell me more about the test that may fix a solenoid problem as a result of the test? Thanks again.

 

[kryptonite850]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Kryptonite, Thanks so much for taking the trouble to look up all that info for me. Couple of questions to just to make sure I understand. When you put the voltmeter to the lead on the solenoid that comes from the keyswitch, does it happen to say what color the lead is? Wanna make sure on this. Also, Can you tell me more about the test that may fix a solenoid problem as a result of the test? Thanks again.

No color is listed on the test as it shows a diagram in the book with numbered posts on the solenoid (for reference purposes). I'll follow their lead on using numbering. For my explanation, I'll use a bit different numbering to keep it simple to explain.

Solenoid Posts
#1 - Feed wire from battery (heavy wire) also has feed wire to key switch coming off it.
#2 - (Right beside #1) - return wire from key switch.
#3 - (Right beside #2) - runs to cutout switch.
#4 - (Right beside #3) - feed wire to starter (heavy wire)

The voltmeter goes on #1 and #4. You then jump from the battery to #2 (momentarily). "If voltage is indicated through the starter solenoid, the solenoid is satisfactory and the problem has been corrected while making the tests. If voltage is not present, it doesn't necessarily mean that the solenoid is defective. The solenoid may not be properly grounded through the cutout switch."

Next test...

Keeping the same voltmeter connections (#1 and #4), connect a jumper wire from #3 to a good ground. Jump battery to solenoid like in the previous test (battery positive to #2). "If voltage is NOT present, the starter solenoid is defective and MUST be replaced".

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Kryptonite, again many thanks, and I will do the voltage tests and report my findings.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Ok. The tests I performed on the johnson 120 are as follows: First, I took my voltmeter and tested across the + and - wires on the starter solenoid. I got 12.68 volts. I then checked between the solenoid and the starter, still 12.68 volts. Then I took my jumper cables and connected to the battery, the other negative grounded to the engine block, and the positive to the positive wire on the starter, and it spun right up. Only problem is that the bendix didn't release and go back down. Maybe somebody can tell me how to get the starter gear to release from the flywheel. Anyway, I then did some voltmeter checks on the solenoid, and everything checked out. I got 12.68 volts everywhere I checked. So am I correct to assume that maybe the kill switch on the console needs replacing? After doing all these tests, and knowing the solenoid and starter are ok, going backwards toward the key or the kill switch seems right. Please correct me if I'm wrong and point me in the right direction. I rechecked the main fuse and it's ok. Thanks

 

[kryptonite850]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Ok. The tests I performed on the johnson 120 are as follows: First, I took my voltmeter and tested across the + and - wires on the starter solenoid. I got 12.68 volts. I then checked between the solenoid and the starter, still 12.68 volts. Then I took my jumper cables and connected to the battery, the other negative grounded to the engine block, and the positive to the positive wire on the starter, and it spun right up. Only problem is that the bendix didn't release and go back down. Maybe somebody can tell me how to get the starter gear to release from the flywheel. Anyway, I then did some voltmeter checks on the solenoid, and everything checked out. I got 12.68 volts everywhere I checked. So am I correct to assume that maybe the kill switch on the console needs replacing? After doing all these tests, and knowing the solenoid and starter are ok, going backwards toward the key or the kill switch seems right. Please correct me if I'm wrong and point me in the right direction. I rechecked the main fuse and it's ok. Thanks

If you're convinced that the starter and solenoid are good, then I agree that going up the line would be the next logical step. There is a procedure for testing the cutout switch. I haven't looked very closely at the section for the kill switch, so I will have to do that when I get home. I would think that if you can jump from #1 to #2 in the previous post and the starter cranks, the culprit would be in your controls/wiring area as the function of those two pins are to tell the solenoid "it's a go!" when all of the correct conditions in the controls are in place, causing the controls to send the juice back down to the #2 pin on the solenoid.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

The motion of the flywheel turning as the engine starts is what kicks the bendix gear out of the flywheel. You can either turn the flywheel manually in a clockwise direction OR manually turn the armature of the electric starter in that same clockwise direction to disengage the bendix.

Kill switch pertains to the ignition system... allows or disallows spark.

Safety switch pertains to the starter system... allows or disallows voltage to the starter solenoid.

Keeping it simple......

Turning key to the START position should cause 12 volts to be present at the "S" (solenoid) terminal of the ignition switch. Note the color of that wire.

If 12 volts is present at that "S" terminal, it should also be present at that same color wire which is connected to the starter solenoid.

If voltage is present at the "S" terminal of the ignition switch BUT IS NOT present at the starter solenoid, then the safety switch either needs replacing or adjusting.

Let me know what you find.

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Kryptonite and Joe thank you both for the info. Joe, in order to check the "S" terminal on the back of the keyswitch, do I touch the red lead of the voltmeter to the "S" terminal, and the black lead to a bolt close by?

 

[cotaone]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Joe, one more thing. I read another post from someone who was having trouble with the kill switch, which I believe is on the raised "m" terminal, and connected to a black wire with a yellow stripe. If I temporarily disconnect that wire and the engine cranks, would I just need to get a new kill switch or see if the wire is frayed somewhere causing a short?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1988 johnson 120...won't turn over

Kryptonite and Joe thank you both for the info. Joe, in order to check the "S" terminal on the back of the keyswitch, do I touch the red lead of the voltmeter to the "S" terminal, and the black lead to a bolt close by?

Joe, one more thing. I read another post from someone who was having trouble with the kill switch, which I believe is on the raised "m" terminal, and connected to a black wire with a yellow stripe. If I temporarily disconnect that wire and the engine cranks, would I just need to get a new kill switch or see if the wire is frayed somewhere causing a short?

1 - Voltage to "S" Terminal..... Red lead to "S" terminal..... Black lead to any ground.

2 - Question of black/yellow wire..... This Black/Yellow wire has absolutely nothing to do with the engine cranking. The terminology "Crank" pertains to having the engine cranking over via the electric starter, having the crankshaft rotate.

The black/yellow wire is part of the "kill circuit" and pertains to the ignition, When this wire is grounded = no spark.