1988 force 125 outboard tilt/trim problem

[ColeNik]

Over the weekend I lost my tilt/trim on my force 125 outboard. I tested at the switch and have a full 12volts into the switch and a full 12 volts coming out on both up and down. from my switch I follow the wires and they go directly to the pump/motor. I keep reading on here about a reset and relays, but don't see any in line with my wiring. Is my next step to take my pump/motor apart and test the power at the motor/pump or is there a way to test them without taking it apart. It looks like they go through a cap screw on the upper edge of the pump/motor but can't see the wires to test. when I push the switch up or down I don't here a click or any noise....any help would be appreciated, thanks

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1988 force 125 outboard tilt/trim problem

http://home.comcast.net/~netsvc/Images/Main/CF_P3B.jpg
picture of 3w motor. wires directly to switch. No relays.


http://home.comcast.net/~netsvc/Images/Main/CF_P2B.jpg
picture of 2w motor. wires go to engine. relays mounted on pan near starter wires.

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if you have a 3w motor then it has a 6' cable tail. Find the end of cable and check voltage. If you are getting voltage but motor does not spin then you need a motor rebuild. No point taking it apart until you are prepared to do the job correctly. At the very minimum you will need brushes, gaskets, springs, a pair of #10 bonded sealing washers, and a 6' whip of 12/3 SJO cord. If oil or water is inside motor then you will also need 1/4-20 flat head screws, permacell fabric tape (P212HD), some mineral spirits, and a 1/4" cobalt drill bit. So that you can remove and retape the windings. By using permacell tape you don't need to get fishpaper insulating sheets. If inside of motor is rusted then you will also need a bead blaster, a vat of phosphoric acid, a bucket of chem-dip metal prep, a can of zinc or z/c waterproof primer, and a pair of throughbolts (i think they are 10-24 x4.5" SS pan head).

This is definitely a case where you should either do it right or don't bother. Everytime you mess with the oil tubes is one step closer to having stripped out ports. So motor/pumps should be done once, done right, and not messed with again for another 20 years.

 

[ColeNik]

Re: 1988 force 125 outboard tilt/trim problem

Thanks RRITT, thats what I was thinking about the motor needing a rebuild, I think I'll leave that to my neighborhood marine repair shop, wiring issue I could fix myself, rebuild is a little out of my comfort zone.....thanks again for the reply...also by your pics i have the 3 wire.

 

[ColeNik]

Re: 1988 force 125 outboard tilt/trim problem

Well I went ahead and pulled the pump/motor off the boat, when I took it apart i found a mess, it appears that hydraylic oil had got into the electric part of the motor and everything smells and looks like a black burnt up mess, any suggestions if this is even worth going any further or am I further ahead looking for another pump/motor? If it is rebuildable is there a kit available or is it just piece by piece?

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1988 force 125 outboard tilt/trim problem

if the brush card is okay then it's probably worth a try. Maybe you can even get away with cheap and easy for a few seasons ... wash out innards thoroughly with white paint thinner, flush, and dry. Then put in a new set of brushes and gaskets from mercury and see how it goes.

However, if the brush card is cracking from oil exposure then I don't think you should mess with it. The only way for DIY to get a new circuit board is to buy the end cap. May as well have someone else fix the motor or buy a new one at that point.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1988 force 125 outboard tilt/trim problem

oops ... addendum ... if you buy a new motor watch out for reservoir. The taller black ones will mess up the alignment of your oil tubing. If you can find one with same reservoir as original then give it major preference. If you do get one with different reservoir then install valve body without motor and then install motor onto valve body. Before installing four valve body screws make sure to turn motor back and forth until armature drops down into gears. Best thing is original. In my book motor with right reservoir is easily worth an extra $25 due to lower labor and risk.