1988 Evinrude 88hp slow cranking with dim lights

[Soundpuke]

Hi guys I am sure one of you can help here so thanks in advance. I have a brand new battery in this motor and recently got the old fuel cleared out and the motor back to full throttle BUT now the anchor and bow lights are super dim and bilge pump won't come on and starter is barely crankkking. I am hoping this is a simpler grounding problem but did already clean up the terminals and wires on the battery side. Where else should I look to be cleaning for corrosion and knock out some of the easy stuff before I start accusing the starter or rectifier or stator? Any simple multi meter stuff I could be doing for this isssue? Batteries show 12.6 volts. Thanks

 

[ondarvr]

The battery cables can corrode under the rubber coating and be bad all the way to and from the motor, so check those first. You can jump straight to the starter and see if it spins correctly.

 

[jakedaawg]

The dim lights should not be motor related. The lights and such use separate leads to the battery. If you have dim lights you either have a bad new battery (extremely possible with the way they make batteries these days) or bad wiring to the helm and the fuse block there.

Combine that with a slow cranking starter and I think I would have the new battery load tested first before I go much further.

As a side note, I sell both interstate and ac delco here, and I have had more batterie warrantie issues the last two years than I did in the previous ten. True story for what its worth.

Does the wiring and insulation look good? Is it soft and pliable? Is hard and cracked? Is this in a salt water environment?

 

[interalian]

You can measure across the fat leads from the motor to the battery and check for voltage drop while cranking. Should be less than a half volt. And try checking the voltage across the battery terminals WHILE cranking.

 

[Soundpuke]

Thanks for the replies. I feel like it's a problem larger than the starter because of the dim lights issue. This is the second good battery so battery failure is ruled out I think. I have to wonder about the bad wiring to the helm scenario. This is a frresh water boat that's been covered always in winter. I cleaned all of the engine battery connections today and still no go. Might be a compound problem with bad starter and bad wires somewhere? My dealer Island Lake in northern Colorado won't work on this boat it's too old. A lot of jack mechanics out there I don't trust as alternatives too. Been scratching head for over a month on this one

 

[ondarvr]

It's not hard, no need for a mechanic, and did you inspect the battery cables, they supply power to everything. Not just the connections, inspect the wires thoroughly.

​Get some jumper cables and connect directly to the starter, see if it spins correctly.

 

[Soundpuke]

Ondarvr I did just that with jumper cables direct to motor groundnut and starter hot terminal- and the starter is still slow cranking so order a new starter right ? But how does this explain the dim lights issue? Battery still shows 12.62 volts...

 

[ondarvr]

If you connected straight to the starter, then start looking at the starter. This does not explain the dim lights though, they draw very little power, you can also jump right from the battery to the lights and see what happens.

​You may want to have the battery tested though, they can read 12.62 and still be bad, I know you said you tried two different batteries, but still have it tested.

 

[oldboat1]

For the starter, I would use jumper cables from your vehicle battery to the starter. Positive to stud on starter, negative to the starter bracket. If the starter gear snaps up to the flywheel and the starter cranks the engine easily, the starter is OK. Take everything but the starter out of the equation.

I'm guessing you will find the starter is working as it's supposed to. If so, think in terms of what wiring is common to both the starter and the boat accessories. I would start with the ground. The accessories and the starter have a common ground -- the motor. If you use a multimeter or a continuity tester of some kind, look for continuity between the battery end of the ground wire and the motor end (boat battery completely disconnected). Then check the end of the battery ground cable to one of the ground points for the boat accessories.

This goes on until you find an issue on either the ground or positive side -- checking connectivity not voltages.

It takes a remarkably small amount of corrosion to cause problems.

 

[jakedaawg]

The accessories and the starter have a common ground -- the motor.

This is not usually the case. More commonly you will find that the motor gorunds to the battery and the vessel side accessories ground to the battery on a seperate lead. The battery is the ground they share. I think oldboat1 simply mis-typed here but I wanted to correct this so there is no confusion.

 

[jakedaawg]

I do believe you have two seperate issues if you actually have the battery load tested. Its free at any parts store.

For dim lights, check your fuse panel under the helm. Old Glass Fuses? Look at the clips they pop into, I bet they could use a little scraping. Also check the bulb bases. Also check to make sure they are truly dim and the plastic lense is not sunfaded.

For the starter you have been steered well by others.

 

[ondarvr]

Also, with the lights on do they dim even more when you try to start the motor?

 

[oldboat1]

Jake gives good advice. See what ground circuitry you have for accessories, and test accordingly. 12.6 volts sure should operate accessories, unless you are seeing dim lights only when cranking like Ondarvr suggests.

Also, in rereading your first post, it appears you might have a two battery system(?) Maybe read it wrong.

 

[Soundpuke]

OK guys all duly noted and appreciated! I am going to search for the accessory ground now today and also look at those fuses again for corrosion and connection- and check the bulb bases. Lights are soooo dim I dont think I could even tell if they dimmed further on cranking. Also going to take that "NEW" battery down and get it load tested and try the jumper cable diagnostic again with yet another battery I have, lets hope the second battery is not bad too. This boat was a cold start nightmare...so Jake I think you're right as far as 2 separate issues. I think the starter just got burned out from 12 years of cranking hard when this boat was in its "heyday." But I dont want to give up on this motor or this boat even though I have an option in on a 21 footer as a band aid.

Any possible advice on where this accessory ground could be located? I am thinking somewhere up near the fuse box, or maybe to the hull somewhere under the floor (can of worms there!). I am going to run through a couple things with the multi meter as suggested as well for continuity, etc.---I am barely a car mechanic and certainly not a boat mechanic but I do have common sense! I'll spend another day on it today me thinks. Thanks again

 

[ondarvr]

The ground wire for the lights should start at the battery, then go to a spot where other grounds are connected that go to each light or accessory. It's simple, just locating it may take some looking. Nothing should be grounded to the hull. The Hot wire should follow about the same path, but go through wherever the switches for lights and accessories are located.

 

[interalian]

Just follow the wires coming off the negative battery terminal. If you do have 2 batteries, do you have a battery switch or isolator? Might want to test those if you do.

 

[Soundpuke]

Well you guys were right I had a bad switch at the helm with some corrosion in it. Just some working back and forth and some connecting and disconnecting worked out the grime and voila the lights work again! Now I'm looking at a starter replacement since I did the whole battery jump procedure and eliminated the bad battery wiring factor. Any recommendations on best place to acquire this starter replacement? Talked to local mechanic today which threw a little doubt in my mind- he said slow cranking doesn't usually mean toasted starter but after I did the jumper cables straight to it I can't see any other option besides starter replacement!?!! I'd love to buy a cheap one and connect it up but do these things come cheap for a 1988 88hp Evinrude SPL? Thanks

 

[derek4325]

Well you guys were right I had a bad switch at the helm with some corrosion in it. Just some working back and forth and some connecting and disconnecting worked out the grime and voila the lights work again! Now I'm looking at a starter replacement since I did the whole battery jump procedure and eliminated the bad battery wiring factor. Any recommendations on best place to acquire this starter replacement? Talked to local mechanic today which threw a little doubt in my mind- he said slow cranking doesn't usually mean toasted starter but after I did the jumper cables straight to it I can't see any other option besides starter replacement!?!! I'd love to buy a cheap one and connect it up but do these things come cheap for a 1988 88hp Evinrude SPL? Thanks

Glad to hear you're making progress. But make ABSOLUTE sure that starter is bad. I have cranked over starters before with jumper cables just as you're describing and long story short I bought a new starter that I didn't need to. Sometimes it can be hard to get the jaws on the cable to get a good connection to the starter. What I do is I usually disconnect the wire from the starter solenoid that goes from the solenoid to the starter. Leave the cable hooked to the starter and clamp your jumper to the lug on the cable. That will give you a better connection. Then try your starter. I have a feeling it will turn right over. Try to use a good quality jumper cable too. At least 8gauge. Hope this helps!

 

[Soundpuke]

Well Derek4325 I did just that with a hot jumper to the solenoid cable and still no dice--starter is kaput I think. It doesn't even slow crank anymore, I just hear the solenoid clicking on and off when it's connected back to the main battery via onboard cables, so I know the solenoid at the very least is seeing current and that cable from solenoid to starter is in great condition, pliable, freshly cleaned ends etc.

So now I have another problem and that is that the model # sticker on the transom bracket is mostly scraped off. So I cannot tell what model or year this REALLY is to order the starter from the web. My local boat guru I bought it from says 1988 88hp SPL Evinrude. Is there a single starter that fits a bunch of model years (* doubt it), but maybe I can get some advice on either what starter to buy or an alternative place to identify the motor since the sticker is in such bad condition? Wow this is a real time consumer I just really want this boat running and been spending many many days and really months on it now. It hurts, but still do appreciate everyone's help as I crawl through what is probably a real simple thing!

 

[jakedaawg]

That starter fits a ton of motors. 79-94. I bet they are 150 new. Less reconditioned. Lots of aftermarket support. They probably sell one right here in this site. I never had any luck looking parts up here though.