1988 85 hp Force popping out of gear

[mbalogh]

Hey everyone,

I've got an 1988 85 hp Force outboard that has had shifting issues since I got it 3 years ago. I've been through the entire shift system from the control units to the shift rod seal in the lower unit adjusting and replacing parts. I'm all too familiar with the whole system at this point, except for the inner workings of the lower unit. Every time I think I've got it fixed a new problem rears its ugly head.

At the beginning of this season, I had it so that shifting into both forward and reverse was smooth as butter and everything worked great. Had a few good days on the lake, thought I had it licked, and then this. At about 3/4 throttle the boat now starts banging every few seconds as the gears skip teeth. I've tried biasing the shift rod adjustment nuts at the top of the shift rod towards forward. They're now at the point that reverse barely engages and the popping out of gear is less often but is still happening.

At this point I have to believe this is one of two problems... either the gear teeth are worn/rounded and are slipping or the shift dogs are worn and not holding the gears in the engaged position properly. I'm hoping against hope that it's the second issue for two reasons: 1) it's the easier and less expensive fix, and 2) when I replace the lower unit oil, I don't find much metal in it... just a little bit of very fine "glitter" which, in my experience, is fairly normal in most lower units.

I'm not familiar with what is involved in removing the shift dogs and I've done some reading here about some people grinding them flat again (since new ones don't seem to be available). Could some of you with more intimate knowledge of the inner workings of the lower unit shed some light on the process of removing and grinding the shift dogs? The more details the better. I'm a fairly handy guy that's spent a lot of time working on boats and cars, so I'm hoping I can get this done on my own. Many thanks in advance!

Mike

 

[foodfisher]

You can also switch the dogs to expose the unused side?

 

[mbalogh]

Hrm, interesting. Assuming it hasn't been done already, of course, that could work? I haven't been in the gear case to see how they look yet and have no idea if that's even possible. Can anyone give me some basic steps to pull the shift dogs and either switch them or grind them flat? Do I need to pull the entire gear set? Or can I access it from the cover under the water pump? Basic info is all I really need along with the "WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T DO THIS" type of stuff too to avoid any major headaches. Thanks,

Mike

 

[jerryjerry05]

Since it's been 3 years and you still have the problem.
The dog and forward gear could probably both be bad.
It's possible to resurface the gear and dog.
First try (maybe to late) unhooking the shifter at the motor and shift by hand. Then see if it still pops out.
Still popping? Take it apart.
Profile? Location? You might be close to someone who can help????

 

[Frank Acampora]

You can TRY reversing the dog clutch but the dogs on the forward gear are most likely worn too. Remove the prop and circular anode. Then remove the four bolts holding in the spool. Remove the spool and remove the two half circle clips now pull out the complete bearing carrier/reverse gear/prop shaft. Drive out the roll pin holding the dog clutch and simply reverse it on the splines.

If that doesn't work, You can disassemble the lower unit and dress the drive dogs square again. Use a Dremel and a straight carbide bit.(Lowes, 10 bucks) Work slowly and carefully, being certain to keep the bit vertical to the gear and dog clutch faces.. Since the rounded wear marks will be equal on all three dogs, grind back to where there is no wear showing. Don't worry---There is way more than enough meat on the dogs. They will not lose any strength.

Your main problem will be removing the pinion so you can take out the forward gear. You need to get the correct sized socket on a breaker bar and pad the gearcase. Then you need to use something to turn the driveshaft and believe me the pinion nut is on there tight--something like 90 foot pounds.

 

[batman2]

hey guys. kind of in the same boat ..lol........i bought a 1985 bass tracker bass boat with a 1989 force 85. i was told that the previous owner had replaced one of the pistons and had not finished the rewiring on the motor. (i only paid $500 for this boat so i couldnt pass). ok..got the carbs cleaned..motor rewired and it fired right up!!.. checked lower unit oil.....no oil. put some in and its running out a 4" long crack. what is the lower foot made of?? aluminum or pot metal..can it be welded?. was going to pull all gears but the piece behind anode is seized in place. does anyone know where i can buy a lower unit or if there is an interchange chart available for the force/chrysler lower units?. any help would be greatly appreciated. in the summerville, s.c. area