1987 OMC Cobra I/O shift repair in progress- Varsity question from an informed guy

LT ScottyK

Recruit
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
3
Hello everyone, I could use some help troubleshooting my shift issue. I'm the proud owner of a 1987 Starcraft Bowrider for Father's Day (yeah big points to the wife!) and on its maiden voyage noticed something wrong with the shift. I discovered that the shift lever is very tough going into reverse and that the engine will often stall. As you can imagine this became very obvious when trying to put her back on the trailer at a public launch on a windy day; but that's boating for you! There were no strange noises or clicking, it was just hard to go into reverse and would stall (forward was smooth as silk).

So I did my homework and due diligence in investigating the common faults and quickly found all the information on the lower shift cable. I studied the adjustment procedures and manuals and in doing so I feel compelled to thank all those on here who contribute to the forum. There was a wealth of information and I am grateful for it all. I think the stalling is normal and part of the ESA system doing its job.

I checked the obvious things under the hood and all the cable measurements are spot on. The shift sleeve at the shift plate is set correctly (core wire and cable). When the lower shift cable is removed from the rocker the shifter goes smooth forward and back, choke responds, and all seems correct.

Next I removed the outdrive and got a look at the back end. The bell crank was at 90 degrees and there was no visible damage or excessive corrosion. This is a saltwater boat so there was some buildup and a shortage of grease, but nothing too scary looking. The shift shaft on the outdrive moves freely up and down and everything seems fine there as well.

I cleaned everything up and did a dry-land engine-off test with the outdrive still off and the shifter goes smoothly into forward and reverse (which it did before I cleaned it with the outdrive off). I reinstalled the outdrive and with the engine off, it still goes into reverse hard and forward easy. . . . Essentially I'm saying that I've measured everything that could be measured and checked everything I can think to check and I have not found the smoking gun.

But, I did notice one thing which leads me to a theory. And since this is a rather large presumption, I was hoping I could get some insight from those with more knowledge than I. While conducting dry-land, engine-off testing, with the outdrive installed I have found only one symptom and two possible indicators. The symptom is hard reverse (forward remains good). The first of two possible causes is that there is some slop (1/8") in the casing guide at the outdrive end. Meaning that the cable has 1/8" of play before the bell crank moves. (All pieces and parts were inspected and look good). The second observation is that when moving the shift lever (from neutral) into forward (dry-land, engine-off, outdrive installed), that engages the EAS cam and enables the system.

This last part got me thinking and doing more homework. The EAS is only supposed to engage when going out of gear, not into gear. Which leads me to my theory (sigh) . . . . that the cable is stretched. (BTW it is a "newer" red cable and does not have a ribbed jacket.) My theory is that the cable is stretched such that when going into reverse the cable must be pushed and therefore 'compress' causing the hard shift into reverse and that when pulling the cable into forward the 'compression' must be removed which adds enough resistance to move the EAS cam. But since this only happens with the outdrive on (recall the test is fine with the drive off) then there must be some required preload on the cable to make this theory plausible. I don't think the shift rod is too tough by any means and I think all the measurements are good.


So there you have it, IMO these are very subtle indicators and before I put this back together for good and go down some other rabbit hole, I thought it appropriate to ask you all. Thank you for your time reading my post, and thank you to those who have posted elsewhere who helped me get this far!

- Scotty K
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,774
Your cable is done. What fails on them is the cable housing and your description leaves me to believe that is happening to you. To make your lower cable last longer, make sure your drive is always stored in the down position.

Although not your problem, you may have some lost motion your control or the cable leading back to the engine. To reduce lost motion in your main cable from your console, make sure it is supported along its entire length. If it is flopping around, that will cause more motion to get the cable to move.
 

Idlespeedonly

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
779
My theory is that the cable is stretched such that when going into reverse the cable must be pushed and therefore 'compress' causing the hard shift into reverse and that when pulling the cable into forward the 'compression' must be removed which adds enough resistance to move the EAS cam.
I believe this may be what is happening. When it gets wadded up it gets hard to move.
FYI, even though the ESA W shaped gizmo (forgot the name) isnt supposed to move when shifting into gear mine always has.
 

LT ScottyK

Recruit
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
3
Hi everyone. Thank you for the advice and the verification of my suspicions thus far. I did replace the shift cable and reinstall the outdrive. I followed the manual and Hastings to the letter completed the process without incident. All measurements and settings were verified and everything seemed to go well.

I then completed a dry-land engine-on test to see how things went; sadly my problem was only slightly better and there was still difficulty going into reverse. By unhooking the cables (from the shift plate) I was able to verify freedom of movement and full gear engagement of the transmission (also evidenced by normal transmission noise and prop rotation). The EAS cam did engage when going into gear only (again dry-land, engine-on) but it never engaged when coming out of gear. Throttle response seemed good overall. When shifting from Neutral to Forward and back and forth the transition seemed good. When shifting from Neutral to Reverse and back and forth everything seemed good. However, when shifting through Neutral, Forward to Reverse and back and forth the shifter would be stiff again each time when going into Reverse.

I then started to mess around with the 5-Step procedure to set the shift plate (see Hasting’s) and this is where I began to get tripped up. While messing with the 5-Step procedure I was actually able to reverse my problem and make it tough to shift into forward and easy to shift into reverse. The fact that something made a difference was reassuring that the problem can be solved. However, I am unable to follow the 5-Step procedure due to several questions that came up. It is here that I am hoping to amend my original question and seek clarity on this 5-Step procedure.

My overall impression of the 5-Step is that it is intended to create a situation where there is no cable tension on the shift arm in Forward, Neutral or Reverse. I was unable to achieve this. The closest I could get was an over-travel condition of the shift plate. Presently, the shift plate wants to move about ¼” beyond what the lower shift cable wants to travel in both Forward and Reverse. On the plus side, the offset is at least even, but on the downside I can’t figure out how to reduce the overall travel of the shift plate. I messed with the black knurled knob on the upper cable and pin placement in the angled groove but I couldn’t find a way to reduce the overall travel of the plate. I tried to mess with the lower shift cable, but I couldn’t figure out any way to increase the travel of the lower shift cable to match the shift plate condition. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

I would also like to take a moment to ask specific questions concerning the 5-Step procedure. As I said above, I think the intent is to remove cable tension throughout the shift process. But there are places were I get tripped up. My main question applicable to all 5-Steps is what is the status of the upper and lower shift cables? Are they all connected all the time? Does step 1 assume that the lower cable is not connected? Does this set the upper cable throw? If that is the case, is the upper cable then removed to set the lower cable throw for step 2? Clarification of which cables are attached and when would be a big help.

Step specific questions are as follows:

Step 1. What does “Adjust the shift cable trunnion to center the forward (fixed) overstroke cam with the switch button on the overstroke switch.” mean?

Step 2. What is the “load lever”? What is supposed to rock down easily and up smooth? I couldn’t really follow this step. When I tried all I did was get the linkage so tight that the throw wouldn’t go into reverse gear.

Step 3. How do you push down on something that rotates? I assume there should be some rotation in one direction or another, but which way? What always centers itself? This makes no sense to me because nothing centers itself; it is all dependent on the shift lever.

Step 4. I do have a cam on the lower shift cable, is that what he calls the reverse overstroke cam? Does my ’87 Cobra not have a “reverse cam”. Speaking of which, I did not see anything that directs the setting (placement) of the cam on the lower shift cable? How far should that cam be placed? I tried messing with that too and got no where fast.

Step 5. As with most of my questions about this procedure I feel like it is written in a language that I do not understand. Is the control box the same thing as the throttle shift lever combination (i.e.- what you drive the boat with)? Are steps 1-4 meant to be done without the throttle cable installed?

….

I know I’ve asked a lot of questions in this post, and I think it’s safe to say that I do that out of redundancy to clarify my exact issue. I’m confidant that the shift plate over travel is the final hurdle but I can’t find the right combination of knobs and cams to turn to correct it and I am unable to follow the procedure. Any tips, tricks or advice would be a help (pictures a bonus!). Thanks again to bruceb58 and Idlespeedonly for your advice thus far; I agree with both of you!

Sincerely,

Scott
 

MRS

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
2,580
You have to get the cobra manual and follow the hastings plus have the two tools bruce said. Once you set the transom shift cable do not move it the tools will set the right length. You read to much into everything just follow the instructions and you will be good to go. In the five steps very important you have to learn what parts they are talking about like the control box and the shift handle then you will understand what they are talking about not trying to be a butt head but that is why boat shops charge so much cause they know what is what. You did have the shifter in neutral when you pulled the outdrive right...
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,774
Hastings has the old procedure since the tools weren't put out by OMC yet.
 

MRS

Commander
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Jul 10, 2005
Messages
2,580
That is true but the tools will put the cable and lever where they should be I only know it worked and still works for me. That is why I usually do not reply to the omc shift problems any more just thought I would throw it out for the last time here. Thought it might help someone.
 

LT ScottyK

Recruit
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
3
Gentleman,

Thank you for all the advice and help thus far. I purchased the new shift cable and the tools and re-did the entire job again. Fortunately for me, the new cable came with more detailed OMC instructions for completing the five step adjustment tha Hastings has on his site (I should probably reach out to him to have them up-loaded). So I completed the job and did all the settings just right. A dry-land engine-on test went perfect, shifting was great and smooth. But when I repeated it in the water, the damn thing wouldn't come out of Forward. The throttle would go about 90% (back to Neutral from forward) then bind up.

I've read that these boats have to be adjusted in the water, but I've yet to see any different procedure for it.

Thanks in advance for the assistance!

Scott
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,774
Sounds like the ESA isn't operating. With the engine running, depress the shift switch manually and see if the engine stumbles.
 
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