1987 fisher sv-16 dlx partial restoration

[Woodstock60]

I know that these boats aren't exactly the top of the line, but I picked it up fairly cheap ( boat and trailer) $ 700. And 16' are hard to come by. First pic is the condition i started with. 10,000 rusty self tapping screws held the one piece all aluminum floor down. And the floor felt solid. Underneath the ribbing and floor supports are heavy duty solid aluminum and mostly welded with rivits through the hull, extremely solid. Some of the foam is crap, but i think thats a fairly easy fix. I really need some help and ideas on a few things. My plan is to clean it out and pull up the wet foam, Then puy down some wiring and live well tubing, maybe seal whatever is exposed with some flex seal or whatever someone can recommend, use some kind of expanding foam then reinstall flooring with stainless screws. the flooring was originally installed with some kind of marine flooring cloth glued down , id like to use something thats permanent. This is where i need ideas, what have some of you folks used, any suggestions would be appreciated. Im going to continue this thread tackling one problem at a time, also if anyone has any suggestions on anything else they see on this project, please dont hesitate to chime in. Thank you all

 

[RBoyd1971]

Don't use self tapping screws on the floor. Either use something like #12-24 and drill and tap the holes and install using loc-tite or heavy duty pop-rivets. Also, it helps a lot to use urethane glue or construction adhesive under the floor where it sits on the runners or cross members. This helps with vibration and keeping the screw from backing out or rivets getting sprung. I just did a 16x48 flat bottom with 1/8" diamond plating. The hull is 0.100 thick and the transom is made with 1/4" plate. Running a 90 hp in the MS river and it's rough on it. Thinking about naming it, The Nutcracker". The floor which I did with 3/16" pop rivets, has held solid but I put the same plating on the sides using stainless self tapping screws and wound up having to glue them all in with Gorilla Max strength construction adhesive. They backed out everytime I went out. All is good now. Oh, also I used the pink foam from Home Depot, but my floor was flat so it worked well for me, gave good structural support. Pour foam may work better on a semi-v.

 

[Woodstock60]

Exellent ideas, i like the stainless screws with locktight, i plan on using the same holes with a slightly thicker screw, i want to be able to get it off again if i have to, the cavities i nned to fill with foam are a very irregular shape, so i figured expanging foam, let dry and cut the tops flat and seal so they make contact with the floor bottom. This floor was screwed in every 6 inches and before i removed the original screws it was locked down solid. I still need to find something to glue onto the top, its smooth not diamond plate