1987 225 Evinrude no spark

DRCrowe

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
84
I tried starting my 1987 225 Evinrude today and it has no spark. It ran fine when I winterized it. I tried disconnecting the black/yellow wires at the powerpacks (1987 225 has 2 CDI's) still no spark. I tried closing the gap down on my volt tester to about 1/8 inch and checked several cylinders on each side but nothing. what should be my next test?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,431
Charge the battery and load test the battery.-----Some will argue, myself I would take the starter apart for inspection / ohm test / new brushes.
 

DRCrowe

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
84
It is a new battery from last year and I charged it before de-winterizing. I learned from past experience to never let the boat charge a weak battery. That lesson cost me a stater a couple years back.
It is spining as fast as ever and sounds very normal. Per CDI troubleshooting I even removed the spark plugs so it is really spinning now.

Also per CDI troubleshooting I removed the black/yellow connectors at the power packs Nothing. And again per the CDI trobleshooting I removed the yellow wires from the regulator/rectifier from the terminal block and still nothing. I have my spark tester at about 1/8"
I'm a bit confused by the stator/timer base resistance tests. They give non DVA specs which I will use since I don't have a DVA adapter for my Fluke multimeter. Are the tests they are referring to a static test, or am I supposed to crank the engine for results?
Racerone, You have always been an amazing resource. Thanks for taking the time to help out here!
 

DRCrowe

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
84
I did some testing per the CDI Electronics troubleshooting guide. Note, I don’t have a DVI Adapter for my Fluke Multi Meter so those values are N/A.

Values according to CDI

WIRE | READ TO | RESISTANCE | DVA (Connected) | DVA (Disconnected)
Brown | Brown/Yellow | 950-1100 (35 Amp) | 150-400 V | 150-400 V
White | Purple | 15-50 | 0.6 V + | 0.6 V +
White | Blue | 15-50 | 0.6 V + | 0.6 V +
White | Green | 15-50 | 0.6 V + | 0.6 V +

Values from my 1987 225 Evinrude (resistance tests set to Ohms with engine static. Voltage tests set to AC with engine cranking and spark plugs removed)

WIRE | READ TO | RESISTANCE | DVA (Connected) | DVA (Disconnected)
Brown | Brown/Yellow | Port 915 Strbd 902 | N/A | Port 134 Strbd 135 (average)
White | Purple | Port 41.9 Strbd 42.2 | N/A | Port 120 Strbd 130 (average)
White | Blue | Port 41.2 Strbd 41.9 | N/A | Port 120 Strbd 125 (average)
White | Green | Port 42 Strbd 42.2 | N/A | Port 120 Strbd 125 (average)

According to CDI I was supposed to get 0.6 volts for the White/Purple, White/Blue and White/Green test while cranking the engine? I was getting around 120v to 130v (similar to the Brown/Brown-yellow wire test?). Either I tested incorrectly, or something is not right???

Even the Brown/Brown-yellow wire test were a little low?

If I understand correctly, the Brown/Brown-yellow wire test is for the charge coils on the stator for the ignition, The White/Purple, White/Blue and White/Green test are for the timer base? The resistance numbers were all within spec. The cranking tests for voltage were not, but again, I may have done something wrong. I set the multimeter to volts ac, maybe I should have used a different setting? 120 volts is way more then 0.6!!

FYI – I pulled the flywheel and checked the magnets and flywheel trigger magnet location. The magnets appear to be in good shape. The trigger location is still where it should be. The stator looked good and no damaged wires or anything else was observed.

I’ll attach a few pics.

Any ideas of where I should go next? Should I buy another timer base? It is the only electrical item I haven’t replaced in the last couple years? I feel like I’m missing something? What went bad while it sat the last couple months?

Thanks again for the help!
 

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DRCrowe

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
84
UPDATE
I installed a new stator and timer base and still no spark. I finally tired a backup power pack on the port side and got spark! I swapped it to the starboard side and got spark I tested the other power packs again and they are still dead. I would have never guessed both power packs would have died over the winter. I didn't even have the battery in the boat? I put another new power pack in tonight and it purrs like a 225 horse 2 stroke kitten.
At lease I have a backup stator and timer base. I'm just glad to be running again!!
 

Dave1027

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
1,078
I would have never guessed both power packs would have died over the winter. I didn't even have the battery in the boat?
Could it have been something that happened during battery removal or installation?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,431
Powerpacks are NOT connected to 12 volts.-----I know of motors that have started fine after battery was hooked up backwards.
 

DRCrowe

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
84
Thanks Racerone. I troubleshot the heck out of this thing. I rebuilt my starter with new brushes and turned the com on my lathe. I even got a DVA adapter for my multimeter for the CDI troubleshooting specs. The Powerpack was a hail Mary!
None of it made sense. I even tested the old powerpacks again figuring I must have done something good during the swap, but they are both still dead. I just bought 2 more power packs for backups and watched the old ones get hauled off by the garbage truck with pleasure! Thank got I still have a beer token left to enjoy the night. Thanks again!
 
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