1986 Starcraft MR210 Center Console Resto Flotation Dilemna

[rtek816]

Hey Guys,

I replaced the transom last year and the floor was in line this year. I'm down to the bottom and trying to decide what flotation to put back in my boat. I like the poured in (lasted 25 years) but noticed when I removed it, the limbers (opening in the bottom of the "V") were clogged with the poured in foam. Anyone have a slick way to avoid this situation with poured in foam? I found about 1/3rd of the foam was waterlogged and standing water in a void in the bow. It couldn't drain to the bilge. I'd like to have a drain channel from the bow yet still utilize the poured foam as the cut sheets just don't seem to give me the volume of floatation the poured in will. I look forward to your suggestions. Thanks, Bob

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: 1986 Starcraft MR210 Center Console Resto Flotation Dilemna

Welcome to iboats, the 22' Mariner is a nice rig.

Your questions is highly debated and folks have been looking for the best solution. Some of the guys have laid down a layer of plastic, set pvc pipes where drainage is needed, poured the foam, and then lift everything out to remove the pvc.

That might work, I've never personally messed with pour-in foam. I used as many foam boards and swim noodles that I could fit under the deck and called it good in my 16' Starcraft. I also have two bilge pumps just in case

BTW are you going to use Gluvit on the seams and rivets while you have it torn apart? Great product to prevent leaks.

Did you already remove the starboard stringer? I only see one in the photo.

Good luck with the project!

 

[rtek816]

Re: 1986 Starcraft MR210 Center Console Resto Flotation Dilemna

Thanks for the response Huron. Yes the port stringer will be out today and hopefully, I'll have all the foam pieces cleaned out and power wash the bottom. I will gluvit the seams and rivets while it's apart. Did you stay with the 1/2" deck or increase it to 3/4"? I'm thinking maybe I could run one layer of 2" X12" sheet foam down the center and pour in around and on top of it. Maybe that will keep a void down the center for drainage?

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: 1986 Starcraft MR210 Center Console Resto Flotation Dilemna

My boat had been redone in the past with 3/4" and I stuck with that. It feels like you could drive a truck on my deck, no flex at all.

It is pretty heavy though, so that's the tradeoff. If you can reduce the span of the ply by riveting in supports(check out jasoutside's 22' Islander thread for ideas) then 1/2" or 5/8" is probably best to keep weight down.

 

[rtek816]

Re: 1986 Starcraft MR210 Center Console Resto Flotation Dilemna

I decided to keep the 1/2" deck and bought large flange rivets 3/16" by .825. The flange is 5/8" and I'm considering countersinking the deck boards through the first layer, then epoxying over.I'll use sheet foam down the center and fill it with swim noodles. I power washed and power washed the inside and put Glovit in all the seams and around the 4000 or so rivets that are below water. I was concerned the 5/8" rivet heads stick up to high for a flat floor (covering with Nautolux). I don't want any pinholes leeching water on my new deck. What do you guys think? Pity the poor soul who has to replace this deck in the future.

 

[rtek816]

Re: 1986 Starcraft MR210 Center Console Resto Flotation Dilemna

Thought I'd give a quick update and look for suggestions. The deck is cut and epoxied and dry fit. I'm pretty sure I'm adding a Minn Kota I-Pilot on the bow. I'd like to place the batteries (24V need 2) under the front deck in the storage locker. There isn't any support as the stringers end 1 foot into the front floor section (see pic's) and the batteries will be sitting on unsupported 1/2" plywood. What are my options? I was thinking a horizontal brace of 3/4" ply sealed under where the batteries will sit attached to the ribs and deck. Any advice? How can I resize a 5M picture to add to my post. Thanks Guys