1986 Mercruiser 470 Starter & Fuel Pump

KMKlein

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Hey all.. New to these forums. I know these questions have been asked numerous times, however, anything that I could dig up was from 2010-2011.

1) I am replacing my starter on my 1986 Bomber Commander II with the Mercruiser 470 3.7L.. After lots of research, everyone said to find the "2-2591-dr-2" starter, which is a smaller version, and includes gear reduction. Apparently in the last 10 years, this starter was discontinued. My search for a good replacement has been pretty null... With the exception of replacing with a direct OE style (BULKY) overpriced starter. Has anyone been able to find a good replacement for the 470's???

2) The previous owner bypassed the mechanical fuel pump and added a cheap 12v fuel pump. It loses prime after only 1-2 days and becomes PITA to get started again! I have my eyes on this electric fuel pump which should do a good job from what I've found:

Carter P4594: Universal Marine Electric Fuel Pump with 72 gph at 6-8 psi Output | JEGS

However, I also saw in an older post that rebuilding the mechanical fuel pump can cause issues. I can no longer find that thread, but it had me concerned. Has anyone rebuilt/replaced the mechanical fuel pump? Wouldnt you still need to use a 12v fuel pump to help prime the mechanical pump after the boat has been sitting?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,.... Go with the mechanical fuel pump,....

No electric fuel pump necessary,....
 

KMKlein

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Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,.... Go with the mechanical fuel pump,....

No electric fuel pump necessary,....

I would like to get away from a 12v fuel pump as well. Problem is, some of the original fittings are missing on the mechanical pump bolted to the side of the motor. I'm sure I can make something work though!! Thanks for your input.. Much appreciated.

I see OE-style mechanical fuel pumps for as little as $50-60. Meanwhile, Sierra brand OE pumps are close to or right at $200.... I am not a cheap a$$, however, I havent seen any bad reviews per say in regards to the "other" brands. Am I a fool to not use Sierra? I just cant really find the justification of putting a $200 fuel pump on a $2500 valued boat...
 

KMKlein

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I thought I should add this information.... I noticed my engine has two separate serial numbers.....

The serial on the side of the head (5304897) comes back as 1976-1979.

the serial on top of the valve cover (5520657) comes back as 1980-1982...
 

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nola mike

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Looks like the starters on eBay have pretty wide applications. I went with an el cheapo in 2012 that was still working in 2019. Imo unless you're going for an oem/brand name starter you have no idea what you're getting. Worth it to me for ¼ the cost, starter is easy enough to get to. They make rebuild kits for the fuel pump. Definitely stick with the mechanical.
 

KMKlein

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Looks like the starters on eBay have pretty wide applications. I went with an el cheapo in 2012 that was still working in 2019. Imo unless you're going for an oem/brand name starter you have no idea what you're getting. Worth it to me for ¼ the cost, starter is easy enough to get to. They make rebuild kits for the fuel pump. Definitely stick with the mechanical.

Thanks for the input

My concern is knowing which alternative (NON-OEM) models will fit in the original starter position - bolt alignment, solenoid concerns, etc, and if ALL 3.7L engines (regardless of the year) can use the same starters? Its hard for me to tell if I have a '76-79 or '80-82 motor... Seems as though the PO swapped the motor and/or parts at some point..
 

nola mike

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Blocks the same, flywheels the same. Only difference that I know of is that the later engines used a slave solenoid. No gotchas that I'm aware of
 

Scott Danforth

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regarding the fuel pump. original pump was a carter M60337.


or


fittings are available at napa (because napa is about the last true auto parts service company.) originally the fittings were 1/4 npt to 3/8 inverted flare tubing (5/8"-11 threads). the hard line to the carb is simply 3/8 steel tubing (same as brake line)

you can still get rebuild kits from carter - just look up the rebuild kit for an M60337

an electric pump requires $30 in oil pressure switch, relays, relay socket and wiring to make work safely

if the cheap electric fuel pump added to your boat isnt SAE J1171 certified, its a bomb waiting to blow

boat on fire.jpg

regarding the starter. many have had luck with DB electric. its a chinese knock-off, however better reputation than the no-name ebay stuff.
 

KMKlein

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regarding the fuel pump. original pump was a carter M60337.


or


fittings are available at napa (because napa is about the last true auto parts service company.) originally the fittings were 1/4 npt to 3/8 inverted flare tubing (5/8"-11 threads). the hard line to the carb is simply 3/8 steel tubing (same as brake line)

you can still get rebuild kits from carter - just look up the rebuild kit for an M60337

an electric pump requires $30 in oil pressure switch, relays, relay socket and wiring to make work safely

if the cheap electric fuel pump added to your boat isnt SAE J1171 certified, its a bomb waiting to blow

View attachment 331880

regarding the starter. many have had luck with DB electric. its a chinese knock-off, however better reputation than the no-name ebay stuff.

Awesome information sir! I just ordered a fuel pump, as well as a starter off of DB electrical.
 

JT78

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Not sure if you figured out yet I have an 1986 190 4 bbl my starter looks like it’s been submerged halfway I pulled apart other than mounting flange the rotary assembly brushes ect I’ve measured and are same dimensions as an 80s early 90s Chevy v8 starter I’m going to take it to a guy at a place near me in Virginia tomorrow to see about getting the parts and rebuilding it it’s at a business that rebuilds starters alt ect called battery barn I can let you know what I find out and get details if you can’t find locally
 

JT78

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Also I couldn’t see any difference in assembly from an auto 305 starter I pulled apart to compare so hope you don’t mind me asking a question on your thread if someone can answer what is the difference that makes it marine safe
 

Bt Doctur

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marine starters are designed to not ignite fuel vapors in a bilge.
 

KMKlein

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Not sure if you figured out yet I have an 1986 190 4 bbl my starter looks like it’s been submerged halfway I pulled apart other than mounting flange the rotary assembly brushes ect I’ve measured and are same dimensions as an 80s early 90s Chevy v8 starter I’m going to take it to a guy at a place near me in Virginia tomorrow to see about getting the parts and rebuilding it it’s at a business that rebuilds starters alt ect called battery barn I can let you know what I find out and get details if you can’t find locally
I ordered a starter off of DB electrical. It was like 2/3 the size of the original starter and only maybe $80 shipped to my door. Works great.
 

Lou C

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The big Delco style starters had screens in them like marine distributors do. These do the same thing as the flame arrestor on the carb; if explosive fumes get into the starter the screen prevents ignition from spreading to fumes in the bilge. The small PMGR starters are sealed by design and don’t appear to need screens. However I would always use a Marine certified starter J1171 regardless of this fact.
As far as fuel pumps if you can use a simple marine mechanical pump then for sure stick with it. I feel they are more reliable than electric pumps and all you need in a low pressure carb application. I replaced just (1) of these over the years and the OE pump was 30 years old! I used a Sierra because I couldn’t find the OE Carter right away and picked up a Carter as a spare when it became available.
 

Lou C

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Here's a comparison of the old direct drive style Delco starter vs an ARCO PMGR starter, the ARCO installed on my 4.3 V6 and the Sierra mechanical pump for the 4.3...
 

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JT78

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I ordered a starter off of DB electrical. It was like 2/3 the size of the original starter and only maybe $80 shipped to my door. Works great.
That’s really a good price I was quoted $200 at the place I took my starter to yesterday but he said it would be more than what it’s worth to rebuild but showed the difference between marine and auto since it was apart.
 

JT78

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The big Delco style starters had screens in them like marine distributors do. These do the same thing as the flame arrestor on the carb; if explosive fumes get into the starter the screen prevents ignition from spreading to fumes in the bilge. The small PMGR starters are sealed by design and don’t appear to need screens. However I would always use a Marine certified starter J1171 regardless of this fact.
As far as fuel pumps if you can use a simple marine mechanical pump then for sure stick with it. I feel they are more reliable than electric pumps and all you need in a low pressure carb application. I replaced just (1) of these over the years and the OE pump was 30 years old! I used a Sierra because I couldn’t find the OE Carter right away and picked up a Carter as a spare when it became available.
Right the fellow showed me the flame arrestor it’s between the commutator and aluminum housing I dug out a 305 starter I had from my 1991 caprice the housing that holds the brushes and coil’s have the same Delco # stamped on them. I’m going to swap them and get it running for tuning and break in but for $80 and 2/3the size if it’s the same starter this fellow quoted 15 lighter stronger and should be easier to get passed the heat exchanger
 
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