1986 Johnson 6.5hp Questions

[JohnnyGuy]

So I am working on a friend's '86 Johnson 6.5hp commercial motor.
I've replaced spark plugs, all the fuel lines and I did a carb kit on it, it I've got a few questions on this motor.
It's my first time working on a 2-piece plus bowl carb. The slow speed needle is at the top and front of the carb and I've got it set 1.5 turns out from lightly seated.
The motor will run for a bit then shut off and is a bit troublesome to get started again.
There is no neutral stop and there's no starter pawl stop so you can pull start the motor in any throttle position. I'm not sure where I should have the cam follower on the armature plate when starting... there's also no low speed stop so you can just twist the throttle down and it'll die out.
Is there a link to a description on how to do a link and sync on these motors somewhere? Apologies if I've missed it. There's an adjustment screw on the cam follower and on the cam. Also there's a metal screw on the port side of the carb that has a spring on it for the throttle body, is there a setting for this?

I believe my issue MAY be the fuel pump because I noticed that the inline fuel filter on the port side of the motor wasn't full of fuel (there was always air near the top (outlet side) of the filter. When pumping the fuel primer bulb on the hose from the tank, it definitely ran longer but I still couldn't get this filter completely full of fuel, aways air at the top (maybe that's my issue?)).
Another note is when I first started it, it seemed to be intermittently missing, I swapped the powerpack from another spare I had and that seemed to have made it better...

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Quick test video

Thanks,
JG

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Well I'm not sure on the commercial motors but I want to tell you a few things. That has a hand manual primer not a choke. Are you using that on cold start up? Are you familiar with the 3 positions? Are all the tubes good and in place?

At the end of the tiller you should be able to adjust the idle....you turn the knob until it stays running and I'm assuming there is a kill switch on the end of the tiller.

Most of the other stuff you shouldn't touch, it's all set at the factory. Cleaning and adjusting any jets is all you do.

Seem to run good on your vid....have you tried buzzing around the lake?

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Well I'm not sure on the commercial motors but I want to tell you a few things. That has a hand manual primer not a choke. Are you using that on cold start up? Are you familiar with the 3 positions? Are all the tubes good and in place?

At the end of the tiller you should be able to adjust the idle....you turn the knob until it stays running and I'm assuming there is a kill switch on the end of the tiller.

Most of the other stuff you shouldn't touch, it's all set at the factory. Cleaning and adjusting any jets is all you do.

Seem to run good on your vid....have you tried buzzing around the lake?

Its my first motor with the prime plunger. It seems to be moving fuel when i was priming. I primed it in and out 3 times then left it out just slightly until it started then pushed it back in.
Also, I've not touched anything on the cam follower or the armature plate. The screw on the port side of the carb with the spring around it I noticed was turning loose when I had it in the ultrasonic cleaner, so I've no idea where it had been set at, my guess is it was too loose already since the spring should have been applying tension to the screw to keep it at its setting.
Thanks for pointing out the idle adjustment at the end of the tiller arm by the kill switch. I'll make some adjustments there.
No I've not had it out on a lake. I'm trying to get it back to my friend as they have a cottage, I do not.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Well I'm hoping that "cottage" is sitting next to a lake. It's needs to run.

Start at one and a half turns.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

I went to do the Impeller this afternoon and I cannot get the LU to drop...
I've tried whacking a block of wood on the cavitation plate, I've tried whacking the bolt at the front the tightens the LU in place and the damn thing isn't budging.
Being it not my motor I'm trying to be overly cautious.
I'm guessing since the thing sat outside, that the driveshaft is seized at the splines... But that's just an assumption.

Any recommendations/tips/tricks to try?

 

[Crosbyman]

if rusty splines.... some do try to flip the engine up side down and trickle some release agent down the drive shaft...if you can access it via small space .

make certain all the bolts are out!

let it soak a few days apply enough lubricant to reach the PH

or tell your friend you don't want to break your "friendhip" and have visit a shop.


always grease the splines when reassembling

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Upside down with snake oil for a week and then wedges until it releases or the water pump explodes. At that point there is creative ways to get the shaft out. Not fun.

Or leave it alone until you start having problems.

 

[Crosbyman]

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Got it unstuck and got the Impeller changed.
I can't get the darn thing to stay running though. I have a feeling link and sync or something with the carb is off...

 

[saltchuckmatt]

What was your method to getting it off? Crankshaft splines intact?

I still go back to the carb....
Send pic of carb?

 

[JohnnyGuy]

What was your method to getting it off? Crankshaft splines intact?

I still go back to the carb....
Send pic of carb?

Turned it upside down and pb blaster...

Pics of carb...

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Check out those plastic carb pieces. The top carb body piece, squeeze the primer ball really hard and observe those plastic tops for cracks that are leaking fuel and or leaking air.

Carb roller looks old should be replaced.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Check out those plastic carb pieces. The top carb body piece, squeeze the primer ball really hard and observe those plastic tops for cracks that are leaking fuel and or leaking air.

Carb roller looks old should be replaced.

I have checked for fuel leaks when priming and I can't find any. Primer bulb does get real hard.
Is there a reason to replace the roller it makes contact with the cam and rolls along the cam fine?

Im wondering if someone can give me the synchronization procedure for these motors...
Is there an initial setting for the idle screw on the port side of the carb?
Roller should JUST start to move the throttle body when it meets the mark on the cam (like older model motors)?
The adjustment screw at the end of the cam should be adjusted so that the roller is vertical at WOT?
What about adjusting the throttle cable? Is there an initial setting for that? Do I remove the bolt by the Thermostat at the back of the powerhead and adjust it's position?

 

[Crosbyman]

Primer bulb does get real hard.

could be carb issue or bad hose pump valve.. normally one can feel the pump getting stiff when the carb floats closes up on a full carb.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Primer bulb does get real hard.

could be carb issue or bad hose pump valve.. normally one can feel the pump getting stiff when the carb floats closes up on a full carb.

Sorry that's what I meant. Primer bulb on the fuel line is soft, after a couples squeezes it gets hard as the float closes... it's the same as on my other motors, I have had it before where it didn't get hard because there was a fuel leak somewhere, but this isn't the case here.

 

[Crosbyman]

sorry myself my error... I should read better ... my eyes told me it did not get hard when pump.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Anyone? I was kind of expecting and/or hoping that @racerone may have some input...

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Try capping of the primer and adding fuel if necessary to get it started. If it runs examine the primer for faults.

Most likely the carb though.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Try capping of the primer and adding fuel if necessary to get it started. If it runs examine the primer for faults.

Most likely the carb though.

It runs, but it'll bog out.
I mean it could be the carb, but I've had it apart, cleaned it real well, new carb kit, before putting it all back together.
I feel like there's some kind of synchronization issue...
The owner has taken it up to their cottage to try out and I'll be there the week after next, so I'll get some videos of it out on the water then.
In the meantime, any other suggestions are appreciated.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

It runs, but it'll bog out.
I mean it could be the carb, but I've had it apart, cleaned it real well, new carb kit, before putting it all back together.
I feel like there's some kind of synchronization issue...
The owner has taken it up to their cottage to try out and I'll be there the week after next, so I'll get some videos of it out on the water then.
In the meantime, any other suggestions are appreciated.

are you sure the tiny idle calibration holes in roof of carb are 100% clean as a church ****-house? what about the tiny tiny idle pickup tube. a syringe with alcohol is all thats needed on these if its not a total nightmare. not much synch n link accept as you said get cam roller to just start opening at hash mark. no timing really to adjust, although this might be the year OMC experimented with a timing pointer but still kinda not needed. compression is fine? hot 7/16'' spark? a power pack can break down under load but spark at the plugs, which is why they want you to use a load adapter to cranking volt test it