1986 bayliner capri 2.3l

tds1774

Seaman
Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
58
i have a 1986 bayliner capri i've been working on. the floor was rotten, overheating, out of time, oh did i mention rotten! I tackeled the mechanical problems first. new impeller, alot of silicone,set the timing correctly ( I think) anyway it runs now and pretty smooth I have to say. The only thing I not sure about is what the max speed on this boat should be. I can only get to around 30 with 2 people and 2 dogs on board. alone I can get to about 33. these speeds are according to gps. I think it should go a little faster. I have the 2.3l volvo engine with an aq275 drive. the propeller is pretty beat up, but the guy at the dealership (only place to get parts) said that shouldn't make much difference. my next project is glassing the floor and building an engine cover. Not looking forward to that.
 

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solar7647

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
1,218
Re: 1986 bayliner capri 2.3l

Well the guy at the dealer ship is wrong. A damaged prop will cause ventilation and cause the prop to loose bite and slip more that will cause the boat to loose speed. But with a bunch of rotten wood I would assume you have wet foam and that would add weight. But the speed sounds right for a 2.3L, after you finish it up you may pick up some speed but I wouldn't expect it to jump way up maybe 35mph.

The deck and fiberglass wont be to bad just takes some time. once you get the deck up check your stringers and the transom. If they are bad replace them to, putting a new deck on bad stringers and transom will just hide bigger issues.

Make sure to post pics of your work.
 

tds1774

Seaman
Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
58
Re: 1986 bayliner capri 2.3l

i have already removed most of the wet foam. im not sure what the trasom actually is but i think it is the rear of the boat where the drive comes thru the hull. if it is then im in good shape there its solid. the stringers appear to be all fiberglass and appear to be in good shape. I havent actually split the top and bottom. I used a grinder w/ cutting blade to trim out the rotten wood aginst the hull (this was a little nerve racking). the glass was very thick and the wood at the edges was decent. hwen I was getting started @ this I was thinking about splitting, but after looking closely I realized I would still have to all the cutting at the hull so I left everything together. THanks for your advise more is apprectiated. I will post more pics as I can manage to get them to upload. the ones on here now were just luck.
 

solar7647

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
1,218
Re: 1986 bayliner capri 2.3l

i have already removed most of the wet foam. im not sure what the trasom actually is but i think it is the rear of the boat where the drive comes thru the hull.

The transom is the rear wall of the boat. It is about 2.5 inches thick of laminated ply wood that is laminated or glued to the fiberglass hull.

the stringers appear to be all fiberglass and appear to be in good shape.

The stringers are wood wrapped in fiberglass, take a small drill bit a and drill a hole about half way threw and see what color the shaving are. That will tell you if they are good. Do the same to transom ( from inside the boat) if the shavings are a dark redish color bad news. If nice a tan your good and just fill the holes with some puddy.

I havent actually split the top and bottom. I used a grinder w/ cutting blade to trim out the rotten wood aginst the hull (this was a little nerve racking). the glass was very thick and the wood at the edges was decent. hwen I was getting started @ this I was thinking about splitting, but after looking closely I realized I would still have to all the cutting at the hull so I left everything together. THanks for your advise more is apprectiated. I will post more pics as I can manage to get them to upload. the ones on here now were just luck.

Splitting the hull from the cap is not 100% needed, it can just make some parts of the job a little more cramped. It would be 100% needed if a transom needed replaced and that would depend on the design. In most cases an OB transom would need the two split cause the transom wood goes all the way to the top of the hull, but in I/O boat it usally stops a good 6-12 inches or more from the top of the hull.

Cant wait to see the photos.
 
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