1985 Johnson V4 140 hp idling problem

Imad

Recruit
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Messages
4
Hi,
I’m new to boating and purchased an Invader II (17.2ft) with 140 hp Johnson motor.
The motor has only 500hrs and can get to above 40mph. I’m having two problems:
1- The Tach doesn’t work except in high speed (over 4000 rpm)! I have installed the digital tiny tach on the spark plug wire for now but it would be nice if I can fix the boat tach.
2- The serious problem I have is idling. Most of the time, when I put it in gear (forward or backward), it dies. I have to give it throttle right away to keep it running which is not a good scenario. It is idling too low (500 - 600 in neutral). The idling adjustment screw is adjusted all the way (clockwise). I have new fuel lines, new gas, new spark plugs (all having a spark) and the carburetor is in a good shape. I found two things while investigating after last outing:
1- The idling adjustment link was stuck (dried up grease). It's fixed now but still I don’t thing it was the reason as it was stuck at the max idling adjustment!
2- I took the air cover to expose the carburetors and removed the Idling Air Bleed Orifices (Jets). They weren't too bad and I cleaned them anyway. The carburetors looked clean and in sync. The idling orifices size was #25 while Johnson website shows them as #14 (three times the opening)! Now, I'm wondering if It is running too lean causing my problem! Any insights?
I’m worried of replacing them with the manufacturer’s #14 in case the idling was adjusted to size #25 (As I understand, idle adjustment is a big job that involves timing adjustment at high rpm while on water).

Thank you for your help!

Imad
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,480
Trouble shooting starts with a compression test.----Post your numbers.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
can't do much fine tuning running on muffs, if that's the plan.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,480
It does not require adjustments at high RPM in the water.-----Does spark jump a gap of at least 3/8" on all leads.----There have been issues with crankshaft sealing rings ( metal ) on these big loopers.----Checked the flywheel key ?----Carburetor bowls may be warped, did you check them when carburetors were apart ?
 

Imad

Recruit
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Messages
4
I bought an adjustable spark tester and it passed the 3/8” gap test. Carburetor’s bowels are ok. The one thing I forgot to mention is that I found some oil in the carburetor’s cover! I read somewhere that might be due to back fire caused by lean mixture. Is that correct? If so, it takes me back to the oversized idle air bleeds installed on it.
Thanks
 

Scallie

Recruit
Joined
Jun 4, 2022
Messages
2
Hi,
I’m new to boating and purchased an Invader II (17.2ft) with 140 hp Johnson motor.
The motor has only 500hrs and can get to above 40mph. I’m having two problems:
1- The Tach doesn’t work except in high speed (over 4000 rpm)! I have installed the digital tiny tach on the spark plug wire for now but it would be nice if I can fix the boat tach.
2- The serious problem I have is idling. Most of the time, when I put it in gear (forward or backward), it dies. I have to give it throttle right away to keep it running which is not a good scenario. It is idling too low (500 - 600 in neutral). The idling adjustment screw is adjusted all the way (clockwise). I have new fuel lines, new gas, new spark plugs (all having a spark) and the carburetor is in a good shape. I found two things while investigating after last outing:
1- The idling adjustment link was stuck (dried up grease). It's fixed now but still I don’t thing it was the reason as it was stuck at the max idling adjustment!
2- I took the air cover to expose the carburetors and removed the Idling Air Bleed Orifices (Jets). They weren't too bad and I cleaned them anyway. The carburetors looked clean and in sync. The idling orifices size was #25 while Johnson website shows them as #14 (three times the opening)! Now, I'm wondering if It is running too lean causing my problem! Any insights?
I’m worried of replacing them with the manufacturer’s #14 in case the idling was adjusted to size #25 (As I understand, idle adjustment is a big job that involves timing adjustment at high rpm while on water).

Thank you for your help!

Imad
My 1999 J115PLEEM outboard did the same exact thing would not stay running when shifted into forward or reverse. Pain to dock! So what was the issue? Low compression. Cyc 1= 105, 2= 80, cy 3=104, & cyc 4 105. That one bad cylinder was causing the problem. (Not the Carb, Not Fuel line or pump,!) it was bad cylinder. Failed the leak down test very poorly! I had just bought boat/motor. Removed powerhead check cylinder 2, out of round motor must have overheated at some time? Rebuilt motor with bored .030 over and wala! Idles perfectly at 500-600 rpms. No more stalling. Now I can dock like a pro! good luck.
 
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