Ok, thank you, will test in the AM. Appreciate the response!
Ok, thank you, will test in the AM. Appreciate the response!
Ok pulled those 2 wires, motor didnt start, put those 2 wires back on and motor now still will not start.
Have no spark at all now.
I unscrewed the 2 yellow wires (one yellow with white line) and motor did not start, then i reconnected them and now am still left with no spark. That's the 2 wires, one side to stator one side to plastic block tired to rectifier. I removed them at the screw on the block.
Black wire on bolt for power pack is solid, will sand and reconnect.
Good solid ground, still no spark.
Ok, so its hard to tell what the actual color of the wires are, but look like orange/white line (O/W) and like a pink or off white with black like (W\B) then there is yellow/white (YW) and yellow (Y)
The diagram does not seem to match my motor. The wires def. Appeae to be yellow and yellow and white, and I only have 1 power pack. . .
This would be for mine. Don't know if that changes anything.
The brown wires give me 0v, at all times, and are the wires the have 589 Ω. And if those 2 yellow wires are connected to the rectifier, with the key on, they read 12v between them. This suggesting the rectifier is bad? I will redo the tests when then storm passes just to make sure.
As stated beforehand above, if you get DC voltage with key on engine off on either of the stator wires then the regulator/rectifier is bad.
Actually that was not stated above, ive asked the question, but it wasn't answered as to what having 12v there meant. I was told it shouldn't be there, but not what getting that reading actually means, or what it means is bad.
I do not have a meter with a peak freeze, but with meter set to read up to 500v, only gives me a visible result of 86v from brown wires while cranking. Not, sure if this is accurate to the DVA test. All the numbers on the blue line highlighted below come back in spec, with the exception of the brown wires, which as stated question my method.
